S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Weak retainers?

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Old Aug 1, 2004 | 10:25 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Venomous S,Aug 1 2004, 08:34 PM
Never did though
That's weird that you never registered a code even if your valves weren't seating properly. But I guess you weren't losing enough compression to bother the ECU.
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 06:05 AM
  #52  
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Regarding leaving the head to replace retainers, a lot of us I think do our own work at home and don't have the whole shop at our disposal, would it be wise to keep the piston toward TDC for each cylinder as you do them in case you loose air pressure and the valve starts to fall or something just in case, because if you let the valve fall then pullin the head wouldn't even be an option it would be a must.

I'm just curious because my retainers looked fine @ 74k miles but I'll inspect again @ 100k and maybe replace them if I feel its needed and don't feel like pulling my head to do this.
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 06:06 AM
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oh, i forgot to add, is there something to buy that can be attatched to the spark plug hole to put an air line to to keep air pressure on the valve?
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 08:14 AM
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Talk to local auto parts stores, they probably have a tube just for this. My compression tester came with one (along with various other connectors), I'm sure it's not hard to find.

Great idea on keeping the piston at TDC, I never thought of that.
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 09:39 AM
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I have some good rigging ideas at times
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Dark_Sub_Rosa,Aug 2 2004, 09:05 AM
Regarding leaving the head to replace retainers, a lot of us I think do our own work at home and don't have the whole shop at our disposal, would it be wise to keep the piston toward TDC for each cylinder as you do them in case you loose air pressure and the valve starts to fall or something just in case, because if you let the valve fall then pullin the head wouldn't even be an option it would be a must.

I'm just curious because my retainers looked fine @ 74k miles but I'll inspect again @ 100k and maybe replace them if I feel its needed and don't feel like pulling my head to do this.
In fact, you should put the piston at TDC, and as long as you keep a constant air pressure supply, youll be OK
you can use the hose that comes with a compression tester taking off the air valve from inside of it, or you can use the house that comes with a leakdown tester.
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Venomous S,Aug 2 2004, 01:56 PM
In fact, you should put the piston at TDC, and as long as you keep a constant air pressure supply, youll be OK
you can use the hose that comes with a compression tester taking off the air valve from inside of it, or you can use the house that comes with a leakdown tester.
I get a house with a leakdown tester.. ah snap I'm on my way right now...

(boy am I board at work )
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 01:02 PM
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[QUOTE=Dark_Sub_Rosa,Aug 2 2004, 03:16 PM] I get a house with a leakdown tester.. ah snap I'm on my way
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 04:34 PM
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Using air pressure to hold up valves is a common practice. I use an old sparkplug that I've braised a long length of solid tube onto, with an air line fitting on the top.

You will need to put the piston at TDC just incase you loose air pressure. A really important thing is to also lock the engine so it wont rotate. Put it in a high gear with the handbrake on. If you dont get it exactly on TDC the air pressure can turn the engine over.

One trick is that sometimes the retainers stick. If you press them too far the valve can hit the piston. I find that a couple of gentle hits with a soft hammer normally releases them. Try to knock the edge of the retainer so its rocked slightly.

Make sure you plug any holes that lead to the sump as it is easy to drop a collet down there. I normally have someone helping with a magnetic pickup to catch the collets.

Best plan would be to replace all of the retainers, then get the originals crack tested.

Speedracer.
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by chris_barry,Aug 2 2004, 07:34 PM
Using air pressure to hold up valves is a common practice. I use an old sparkplug that I've braised a long length of solid tube onto, with an air line fitting on the top.

You will need to put the piston at TDC just incase you loose air pressure. A really important thing is to also lock the engine so it wont rotate. Put it in a high gear with the handbrake on. If you dont get it exactly on TDC the air pressure can turn the engine over.

One trick is that sometimes the retainers stick. If you press them too far the valve can hit the piston. I find that a couple of gentle hits with a soft hammer normally releases them. Try to knock the edge of the retainer so its rocked slightly.

Make sure you plug any holes that lead to the sump as it is easy to drop a collet down there. I normally have someone helping with a magnetic pickup to catch the collets.

Best plan would be to replace all of the retainers, then get the originals crack tested.

Speedracer.
good point about locking the engine, sometimes when you put air pressure, that will send the pistong to the bottom

but even more important if you are messing around with retainers and keepers, tapping here and there, dont forget to wear your

GOGGLES!!!!

you just never know
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