Took 260k miles and 4 owners but my diff mount on the passenger side has finally started to wear. I can't remove that mount because the bracket on the Berks exhaust I had previously has welded that bolt to the subframe. I tried a 3/4" breaker bar, high torque impact wrench, heat, all I did was round off the bolt. That mount is not going anywhere for now. My only options are to cut the captive nut on the subframe along with the bolt head, or go the super ghetto route of using 3M windo-weld to reinforce the passenger mount. Apparently this stuff cures fast enough and is hard and durable enough to work as a makeshift mount, and people have had luck with it as a long term solution for their torn mounts. According to the data sheet, the tensile strength elongation strength and Shore hardness is higher than the OEM mount once fully cured. I'll let you know if this works out or if I have to bust out the reciprocating saw.

 

I'm actually surprised it lasted that long. Mine were cooked around 90k miles. From memory, the aft mounts are fluid filled and tend to leak which causes the rear to sway. Makes it feel really wobbly. I went with the Hasports, have 160k now, and haven't had an issue ever since.

Good luck. Genuinely hope it works.

 

It's sort of worked. I no longer have the sloppiness in shifting. The window adhesive stuff is a little stiffer than the other brand new diff mount on the driver's side, it just doesn't look as pretty. There is a bit more NVH, not bad for 12hrs of curing. It's like using a soft poly mount, it's still harsher than stock. Now to see how long this lasts.

None of the mounts are fluid filled, they're hollow, when they tear, and you drive while its raining, the hole in the mount draws in air and water, that water sits in the hollow cavity of the mount, and rusts the bushing shell. What comes out isn't hydraulic fluid, it's just rusty water.

 

24hrs later, it gets my big ol' seal of approval. You can use this stuff to repair bushings, it's just messy and ugly, which is fine because I'm that way too. It's a lot easier to do when you can remove the bushing from the car, I didn't have that luxury, but I made it work.

 

I don't recommend this to anyone, It's definitely an improvement over the worn out bushing, but to preserve the retail value of your car, you should, if possible do the proper repair and use new OEM diff mounts. That said, the performance is fantastic, I'm tempted to do the other mount.

 

Update: It's still going strong, shifting is like butter now, NVH seems to be the same after fully curing. I rebuilt a broken OEM compliance bushing with this crap too. I'm going to test how strong it is, by pressing this compliance bushing into a control arm with the inner sleeve only. Pressing in a compliance bushing takes around 3 tons of force to make the press fit IIRC. So if this stuff is strong enough to allow me to press the compliance bushing in and out through the inner sleeve, then it should be strong enough for daily use as the car only weighs ~ .7 tons per axle. Meaning it takes 10x more force to press in the bushing than the weight of the car on that corner.

 

Didn't work, went in about a quarter of the way and the inner sleeve got pressed right out.

 

Thoughts. The bushing pressed in about 1/4 of the way, the MDS in the OP says ~1200psi tensile strength. If it takes 3 tons of force to press in the bushing, that would be roughly 1/3rd of that? That would be how much force it to took to break the bond with the already compromised compliance bushing. The urethane didn't tear at all, it just separated from the rubber it was attached to and effectively made a mold of the bushing. I also have dimensions of the compliance bushing just in case anyone wants to browse the Honda parts catalog for some SUV replacement. Outer shell OD is 60mm 28mm tall, and the inner sleeve is 66mm tall.

 

Compliance bushing has a built in 'axle' area. A section of rubber that aligns to direction of front bushing. Arrow on bushing alignment mark to make sure you get that right.

This built in rubber axle section is simply the bridged area of rubber without the air gap.

Point being if you make a diy bushing, you're gonna need to account for the axle area. Can't just fill the gap between inner and outer shell.

 

This was a test. I have a pair of hardrace compliance

bushings that are going on the car whenever I get around to it. That bushing is solid without the "axle" gap. It's also a very strong bushing, I don't know of many people that have had it fail.