What is the difference between a fuel injector cleaner and a fuel system cleaner?
Aside from the fuel "system" cleaner being double the price of the fuel "injector" cleaner is there really any difference between these two formulas?
I just rolled over 10,000 miles and was considering using the "injector" cleaner but wasn't quite sure if the "system" cleaner would be a better choice. I haven't used one of these on the car since I purchased it and figured I'd give it a shot.
Are you for or against these kind of solutions? Have you used them on your S2000? Do you currently use them on any other cars you may have? Which brand/type do you prefer or does it even matter?
I picked up a Valvoline "Syntec" fuel injector cleaner...or something to that affect. I haven't used it yet and am debating on whether or not I need it in the first place.
Please give me your feedback.
I just rolled over 10,000 miles and was considering using the "injector" cleaner but wasn't quite sure if the "system" cleaner would be a better choice. I haven't used one of these on the car since I purchased it and figured I'd give it a shot.
Are you for or against these kind of solutions? Have you used them on your S2000? Do you currently use them on any other cars you may have? Which brand/type do you prefer or does it even matter?
I picked up a Valvoline "Syntec" fuel injector cleaner...or something to that affect. I haven't used it yet and am debating on whether or not I need it in the first place.
Please give me your feedback.
If you want to give your engine and fuel system a good carbon removing scrub, get a quart of ATF and be low on gas and have nothing to do for that whole entire day.
Put the ATF in your gas tank and just let the car idle for hours until it runs dry. Then after that, replace your spark plugs and also your engine oil. The plugs need to be changed but behold, you've removed a bunch of carbon from your engine insides. Another thing you can do is drain some of your engine oil (to about 2 quarts remaining) and add 2 quarts ATF and a cap full of ATF into each cylinder through the spark plug holes. Then let it sit over night then run for about 10 minutes. Then replace your oil and either let it idle for another hour or take it for a drive if ur in a dead neighborhood.
You'll find that your car is producing tremendous amounts of smoke and only drive it around a secluded neighborhood because you will get pulled over not to mention it's a hazard for anyone behind because they wont be able to see. After the smoke stops, change your plugs.
ATF is an extreme carbon removing agent. It also lubricates better than engine oil. The only problem with it is that it burns off easy hence the smoke. RX-7 guys swear by this to clean off the carbon from their engines and I've done it to all my engines for a while with great success. I do it once every 30k. If you want to prove how well it works, take out anything with a lot of carbon on it. Then leave it over night in ATF.
Do this under your own free will. I'm not responsible for anything. But I know it works for many people as well as for me. It's just
something that I'm sharing with you guys. Not making you go out and do it.
Put the ATF in your gas tank and just let the car idle for hours until it runs dry. Then after that, replace your spark plugs and also your engine oil. The plugs need to be changed but behold, you've removed a bunch of carbon from your engine insides. Another thing you can do is drain some of your engine oil (to about 2 quarts remaining) and add 2 quarts ATF and a cap full of ATF into each cylinder through the spark plug holes. Then let it sit over night then run for about 10 minutes. Then replace your oil and either let it idle for another hour or take it for a drive if ur in a dead neighborhood.
You'll find that your car is producing tremendous amounts of smoke and only drive it around a secluded neighborhood because you will get pulled over not to mention it's a hazard for anyone behind because they wont be able to see. After the smoke stops, change your plugs.
ATF is an extreme carbon removing agent. It also lubricates better than engine oil. The only problem with it is that it burns off easy hence the smoke. RX-7 guys swear by this to clean off the carbon from their engines and I've done it to all my engines for a while with great success. I do it once every 30k. If you want to prove how well it works, take out anything with a lot of carbon on it. Then leave it over night in ATF.
Do this under your own free will. I'm not responsible for anything. But I know it works for many people as well as for me. It's just
something that I'm sharing with you guys. Not making you go out and do it.
I would highly suggest having a new fuel filter ready if you do any of the extreme fuel system cleaners. When you dump the cleaner into the tank it is going to break up a lot of the deposits in the tank as well and carry those particles into the fuel filter. You'll clean out your fuel system, but you'll most likely clog up your fuel filter in the process.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by kane.s2k
If you want to give your engine and fuel system a good carbon removing scrub, get a quart of ATF and be low on gas and have nothing to do for that whole entire day.
If you want to give your engine and fuel system a good carbon removing scrub, get a quart of ATF and be low on gas and have nothing to do for that whole entire day.
To answer the question, the answer is - who knows?
I have analyzed the formulas of a number of products and found this generally to be true:
1) A Fuel injector cleaner usually contains kerosene, or petroleum distillates - it is a mild cleaner.
2) Fuel system cleaners contain stronger detergents and more aggressive cleaners - they clean intake valves and combustion chamber deposits.
There is no industry convention for the terms.
Best cleaners are: Techron, Redline SI-1, and Regane (Pennzoil). They have the most expensive and effective cleaners. Use every oil change.
BG Products makes a product called 44K, but it is very strong, and I am not sure if it is compatible with every kind of injector design. Dave Solomon at Nutz and Boltz reported some de-lamination of the solenoid windings in some injectors because of the 44K's potent cleaners. I think 44K is useful if you are having a problem from neglect or a very bad batch of fuel - but professional systems that hook directly into the injector rails are preferred, as there is no chance of fuel filter decomposition effects.
I prefer continuous cleaning, and add Red Line SI-2 at every fillup.
There is a wide variance of detergent amount and quality in today's fuels - many companies have reduced the levels to mnimum amounts, and I have seen carbon on intake valves in less than 10k miles of driving!
It is far better to stop deposits before they get a hold on your car - like plaque deposits on your teeth, once they are on, it takes more force (or cleaner) to remove.
I have analyzed the formulas of a number of products and found this generally to be true:
1) A Fuel injector cleaner usually contains kerosene, or petroleum distillates - it is a mild cleaner.
2) Fuel system cleaners contain stronger detergents and more aggressive cleaners - they clean intake valves and combustion chamber deposits.
There is no industry convention for the terms.
Best cleaners are: Techron, Redline SI-1, and Regane (Pennzoil). They have the most expensive and effective cleaners. Use every oil change.
BG Products makes a product called 44K, but it is very strong, and I am not sure if it is compatible with every kind of injector design. Dave Solomon at Nutz and Boltz reported some de-lamination of the solenoid windings in some injectors because of the 44K's potent cleaners. I think 44K is useful if you are having a problem from neglect or a very bad batch of fuel - but professional systems that hook directly into the injector rails are preferred, as there is no chance of fuel filter decomposition effects.
I prefer continuous cleaning, and add Red Line SI-2 at every fillup.
There is a wide variance of detergent amount and quality in today's fuels - many companies have reduced the levels to mnimum amounts, and I have seen carbon on intake valves in less than 10k miles of driving!
It is far better to stop deposits before they get a hold on your car - like plaque deposits on your teeth, once they are on, it takes more force (or cleaner) to remove.
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Thanks for the replies so far.
Road Rage...so if you call Redline direct they will have a product called SI-2?
The only thing I can find on their website is the SI-1. Is this a newer formula they haven't updated their site with yet? I'll give them a call on Monday and find out.
Road Rage...so if you call Redline direct they will have a product called SI-2?
The only thing I can find on their website is the SI-1. Is this a newer formula they haven't updated their site with yet? I'll give them a call on Monday and find out.




