Alright, this is the THIRD time I've replaced these in the last 3 months. I recently came to the conclusion that one of my wheels is abit bent and it's been messing them up. Both times in the past they've been the front wheel studs, this time it's in the rear. In the front, you have to replace the wheel bearing everytime you replace the studs, is this the case in the rear as well? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

i didn't replace the bearings, just clean and re-grease.

 

amelite Posted on Dec 19 2008, 07:59 PM
According the the service manual: yes.
What torque did you use?
Any anti-seize on the thread?

 

No guys, this isn't torque related at all. I'm positive. This has something to do with a bent wheel. When I first purchased the car, it made a weird clicking noise from the front right wheel. Eventually, the studs snapped on that side. I painted the wheels and put the wheel from the right side onto the left accidently. That side started to click and then snap. I wasn't sure what was causing it, but I had a feeling it was the wheel itself. Last night my friend and I put the front wheel onto the back. It instantly started making noise too, less then 12 hours later, that side snaps.

Also, the wheel doesn't quite touch the hub. I made a thread acouple weeks ago, mentioning this but people had just told me it was because the AP1 wheels are staggered. Well, it's definitely not just that... Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

if you think the wheel is warped, why don't you just mount the wheels on the front hub and jack the front up and spin the wheel. you should be able to see it wobble if it's bent.

i hope you're only putting the front wheel in the back to test it out and not drive around like that. how did you get the rear wheel on the front hub because the hub centric ring is smaller on the back wheel, unless you used a different wheel for the front.

 

Long story, not going to go into it. Basically the shop that did my work ended up putting a wheel on that wouldn't sit flush with the front hub. I put it in the rear and it still wouldn't sit flush, I got rid of that wheel and just purchased a rear and everything lines up perfect. However, I do still need to figure out this wheel stud issue, that's what this entire thread was about, but I haven't gotten any response on it. Right now, the car is jacked up in the garage and I'm trying to hammer out the rear wheel studs, but the hub is getting in the way. There isn't any gap in the hub, where a stud should be able to fit through. The fronts have been changed twice and I had to replace the wheel bearing. I went to Honda and they told me I didn't have to replace the wheel bearing in the rear. I took it him and now there's a problem with the hub being too large for the wheel stud to fit through.

 

I tried to DIY this job on my passenger rear wheel also but even with a ball-joint remover, decided just to have a shop do it. The hub needs to be removed in order to remove the studs which is why replacement of the bearing is recommended. I had the shop inspect the bearing which they said did not need changing. I paid $95 for the job (actually should have cost me only $65 but I had all 5 studs changed). I brought my own studs and a new hub nut also.

What I really liked from this job is that after it was done, the intermittent clicking noise from the rear on initial forward or backward movement, totally went away.

 

There is your problem - the wheel must touch the hub. Find out why it doesn't, and you'll know what you have to do.

 

Grab a measuring caliper and measure the outside diameter of the hub's boss, that's the raised ring around the center nut on the hub. Then measure the inside diameter of the wheel's center opening and compare. The ring's OD should be equal or slightly less than the diameter of the opening in the wheel.

If not, than the centering ring is not allowing the wheel to go on, and seat properly, in which case you'll have major major problems, including, but not limited to, wheel being held by lugnuts only, in such a manner that the entire weight of that corner will be held by lugnuts on lugs, causing (obviously), under certain conditions, them (lugs) to break.