I have this seller that is selling his '03 for $6000 cheap with 98,500 miles on it because cylinder 2/3 are low in compression and he doesn't have time to fix it.

cylinder 1 - 238 psi
cylinder 2 - 220 psi
cylinder 3 - 216 psi
cylinder 4 - 240 psi

A leakdown test showed that the exhaust valves are ok but the compression rings are bad. The car rough idles, and sometimes dies when you put it in neutral. There is no smoke coming from the tail pipe. The condition of the cylinder walls are unknown.

I'm keen on using this car as a learning experience in engine work but is this something that I can do myself? If it's just the compression rings, is it possible to just take the piston out, replace the ring and drop it back in? I'm new to this so any info would be much appreciated. Thanks!

 

How cheap is cheap?

Most people tackle project with mechanical problem because they work on engine or have plan for rebuild.

it can be just a rings or you'll need a lot more work if the head and block needs some machine. Walk away if you can't

even tell which is which unless he's selling the whole thing for 4 grand.

replacing the rings will needs some "special" tools, and there's more stuff to replace once you have the engine disassembled.(headbolts, gasket, etc)

240 psi on a 2003 sounds a bit high, do a compression test before buying and see if he's honest about that.

put a table spoon amount of motor oil in cylinder 2 and 3 to see if you can get the number up, usually the motor oil will seal up the ring somewhere to get a better reading unless it's a leaky valve, gasket, etc

 

Get a leak down test done. Provides much more information than a compression test. While the leakdown tester has pressure on a cylinder you can listen to the inlet/exhaust and crankcase breather to determine where its leaking. Also listen to the adjacent cylinder as often you get leakage across the thin part of the gasket between cylinders.

Also, pull off the oil filter and cut it open. If there is no metal in it its a good sign that the bores haven't started to chunder up.

Factor in replacing the motor with a good used unit in your pricing. If the one in it can be recovered economically then you are ahead.

 

if it will save you about 4-5 grand than go for it. rip the motor apart and check it out. if the cylinder walls are scored than it is a good excuse to use that extra 4-5 grand to drop in a good condition f22.
only do this if you are mechanically inclined and have the ability/tools/time to do this. otherwise it would be wiser to walk away.

 

HOw many miles on the motor out of curiousity? thats pretty high numbers for an 8 year old car....

 

How much would it normally cost at a mechanic to see if an engine needs head or block work (i.e. performing another compression and leak-down test)? And by special tools, do you mean piston ring expanders and compressors? I know the replacement parts are probably pretty cheap, so if the repair does not need professional machine work to be done (therefore no labor cost), I might wanna try it out.


The seller said he performed both a compression and leak-down test and he said the exhaust valves are ok but the compression rings are bad. He says that with that finding, I will need to remove the engine and completely disassemble it to repair, is that true?

Also, so if I look at the oil filter and there is no metal in it, mostly like the cylinders are ok and I won't need to bore it out?

Sorry I missed out that info, the engine has approx 98,500 miles on it.

 

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/2254550184.html that car? was considering it myself but i have 2 already lol the other issue doesnt really make sense, probably need a diff/axles

 

Yes that one. A new diff? I thought it would just involve replacing the drive shaft?

 

drive shafts for this car rarely fail. I personally have never heard of one failing. The failure rate of the differential (whining/clunking etc.) and axles is far more likely.

 

So you think what he refers to a 'propeller bearing' problem might actually be whining from the differential instead? That's a $500 fix (change diff) vs $250 fix (change drive shaft)