13 MPG on the Track!
Originally Posted by jedwards,Nov 1 2004, 03:01 PM
BTW...
Remember a run with top speeds of 60-65 keeps you in second or lower if you're being aggressive.
Remember a run with top speeds of 60-65 keeps you in second or lower if you're being aggressive.
The Dragon was the Most fun I have had in a car, and getting only a Mile per Quart was ok with me.
It's still better than my boat, 2 Gallons per Mile. She likes the Twisties also
Charlie, those that ran the track in the morning(Sunday) had to run in the fog and r@!n. Gas mileage for those folks should be better. Cruising I get 20-21 mpg. I've got 4.57's and cruising speed in this area is 80-85 mph. I have no idea what I get on the track, but I always take extra fuel.
Dragon.
My first time was this year's WTD. After coming back down to the "start," one of the kids had his brakes literally smoking. I was laughing so hard!
Good stuff- the Dragon!
Dragon.
My first time was this year's WTD. After coming back down to the "start," one of the kids had his brakes literally smoking. I was laughing so hard!
Good stuff- the Dragon!
I don't know about gas mileage. However, I managed to burn a quart of oil in about 1 1/2 hour on the track Monday. I was on the track for something like 1 1/2 to 2 hours and had 3 bars left on the fuel guage. I checked the oil after the first 1/2 hour session and it was full. Ran another 1/2 hour session and added about 8 ox. Ran another 1/2 to 1 hour and added the rest of the quart before the trip home. THANKS! Matt_inva.
I need someone to explain to me what I need to do differently next time. Beaver Run has more right-hand turns than left: we were lapping clockwise. I've looked at my tires, and all of them have significant scuffing on the outside of the tread. However, my left front has raised ridges on the outside of the first longitudinal groove. I know this is a lousy description, but if you run your finger from the outside of the tire towards the inside, there's a raised lip at the fist groove. Actually, it's raised at the front of the tread block, and pretty much level at the rear of the block.
Someone with track experience please chime in with some information. I'm clueless as to what I was doing wrong to cause this. I do have recollections of a few mistakes, and a few correct moves, on each lap. I'll admit to being pretty ham-fisted, as this was my first time at the track and I've only done autocross once.
But these ridges on the LF tire do bother me.
I need someone to explain to me what I need to do differently next time. Beaver Run has more right-hand turns than left: we were lapping clockwise. I've looked at my tires, and all of them have significant scuffing on the outside of the tread. However, my left front has raised ridges on the outside of the first longitudinal groove. I know this is a lousy description, but if you run your finger from the outside of the tire towards the inside, there's a raised lip at the fist groove. Actually, it's raised at the front of the tread block, and pretty much level at the rear of the block.
Someone with track experience please chime in with some information. I'm clueless as to what I was doing wrong to cause this. I do have recollections of a few mistakes, and a few correct moves, on each lap. I'll admit to being pretty ham-fisted, as this was my first time at the track and I've only done autocross once.
But these ridges on the LF tire do bother me.
Red Ed- Outside scuffing is normal. During normal driving(even spirited jaunts) you do not use the entire tire. I'm not sure what kind of tire you had, but I'll assume it was a normal street tire whose sidewall may not be designed for said encounter.
I'm trying to liken your description to something else I've seen before, but of course, I could be totally off-base. If you had some depth to your tires, then it's possible that the tread blocks squirmed like facial hair after a couple of days. Once it reaches its fully extended limit, it then begins to grab, wearing away the majority of the area. It then rebounds back to its original shape, leaving the furthest reaches of the tread section only slightly worse for the wear. This is also why some folks take brand new RA-1's and have them shaved. My wife just couldn't understand buying $700 worth of tires and then cutting off their tread. But it's like that facial hair. Real short, one-day growth is stiff. As the hair gets longer, it flexes more and is not as rough. Same with tires. Also, excessive tread block squirm generates more heat, further degrading the tire and shortening its life.
The other scenario that might have happened is that you "chunked" some rubber off the edges. I've heard this happens both drifting and at the track.I'm definitely no tire expert, and I didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn Express either!
I'm trying to liken your description to something else I've seen before, but of course, I could be totally off-base. If you had some depth to your tires, then it's possible that the tread blocks squirmed like facial hair after a couple of days. Once it reaches its fully extended limit, it then begins to grab, wearing away the majority of the area. It then rebounds back to its original shape, leaving the furthest reaches of the tread section only slightly worse for the wear. This is also why some folks take brand new RA-1's and have them shaved. My wife just couldn't understand buying $700 worth of tires and then cutting off their tread. But it's like that facial hair. Real short, one-day growth is stiff. As the hair gets longer, it flexes more and is not as rough. Same with tires. Also, excessive tread block squirm generates more heat, further degrading the tire and shortening its life.
The other scenario that might have happened is that you "chunked" some rubber off the edges. I've heard this happens both drifting and at the track.I'm definitely no tire expert, and I didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn Express either!
I scrubbed my tires something fierce at BeaveRun. I wouldn't worry about it, Ed.
This was expected as I'd already put 10K on the rears and nearly 20 on the fronts, and I was questioning my alignment before I even hit the track.
That said, when I replace my tires, I'm getting a four-wheel alignment. I recommend same to you, Ed.
This was expected as I'd already put 10K on the rears and nearly 20 on the fronts, and I was questioning my alignment before I even hit the track.
That said, when I replace my tires, I'm getting a four-wheel alignment. I recommend same to you, Ed.
Originally Posted by Chazmo,Nov 2 2004, 09:51 AM
That said, when I replace my tires, I'm getting a four-wheel alignment. I recommend same to you, Ed.
The place that I go won't allow me to change the specs... Apparently, the Hunter equipment is pre-programmed and the shop has insurance issues if they diverge from the defaults.
Chazmo, if you do a fair amount to a lot of agressive driving the Eur setup is the way to go... in that case I'd find a new alignment shop. OTOH... if you tend to use the S as a daily and/or nice weekend country drives with the occasional spirited or even aggressice drive... I'd stick with the NA setup and not worry about it.









