Here's Granny right after the secret compartment revelation: (at SF 2004)

 

Most memorable and most surprising are one and the same. Those of you with AP1s know there is no 'cancel' button for the cruise control. The manual says to disengage the cruise from the steering wheel, you need to press the 'set' and 'resume' buttons simultaneously... not very quick and a bit awkward to boot.

OK... so we are driving cross country and spending far too much time on interstates, and I am using the cruise control mainly to keep myself out of too much trouble. At 6'1", I kind of wear the "S" (don't know how those of you who are taller do it), and take full advantage of the 'dead' pedal. Even so, I cannot fully extend my legs, and on long trips will use that dead pedal to perform the equivalent of some isometric exercises for my left leg (the right one is usually getting its own kind of exercise with the 'loud' pedal). Add some size 11 1/2 feet, and here's the moment:

The cruise has been on for a while, and I am 'stretching' my leg, when it suddenly disengages (the cruise control... not the leg). I realize that at the same time, I felt what seemed to mimic an old "high beam" switch click under my foot. Did it again, and sure enough the cruise shut down the same way. I thought I'd discovered the equivalent of a "hidden Mickey" at Disneyland, and could not wait until our next gas stop to check out this button that the manual hadn't told me about.

Wel-l-l-l, not quite. With my full foot on the dead pedal (heel and all), my size 11 1/2s are longer than the pedal. Turns out the clutch pedal is not straight line vertical, it has a bend in it that takes the pedal arm over and above the top of the dead pedal. What I was doing was very slightly depressing the clutch without knowing it. The cruise control disengages immediately, with no increase in revs or any other adverse effect. So help me, it is an instantaneous way to disengage the cruise control.... perhaps even two or three times quicker than having a 'cancel' button. All you gotta do is drive with your full foot on the dead pedal (with your toe extended just above the top of it).

Most irritating is the AP1 clutch buzz that was never addressed. I've kinda gotten used to it.

Best thing about the "S" is how good I feel when I'm driving it.

 

Most surprising? That RMurphy is a girl. (Didn't read the little print till after your picture showed up here)

Most odd? When the S started stuttering and I read here to put a plastiv tie around some little box with wires, and that fixed it.

Most fun? Tracking the S, which also was the most educational-- when I found out I wasn't the driver I thought I was.

 

I always thought that was a benefit. One less clock to reset twice a year. I did my Daylight Saving dance with them today. Ford - 2 seconds. Nissan - 2 seconds. MG - 0 seconds. Audi - five minutes. Every year I think I going to be able to reset it without a lookup. Nope. After pushing most of the buttons and still not getting a lead I go to the Operators Manual, which sends me to the MMI Manual which walks me through the 3-part step down menu to change the clock one hour (German cars are over engineered and it's not always a good thing).

 

Had an early fix for that as well (not my idea). File the plastic divider completely away so you can easily push both at once.

 

Why not just tap the brake or turn off the cruise main control - ain't no thing either way.

 

works for me

fltsfshr

 

As for tapping the brake - sure that works but I often had the cruise set at 80+ and prefer not to hit the brakes if my radar detector goes off.

 

If they can see your brake lights isn't it a bit too late already? Always been my experience.

And I was loathe to post in this thread simply because it's been so long - if I get a ticket in the next couple of weeks I'm going to hold some of you accountable.

Particularly Dean as he seems to be able to talk his way out of it. Never worked for me.

 

Back on topic:

1. How sucky the OEM S0-2s were in a heavy rain even with plenty of tread left. The Volk CE-28 17" wheels are the best mod I've done for driveabilty in the rain - along with different tires.

2. The difference a 4.57 final drive makes in this car. Then add a Comptech SC/AC with a 9 lb. pulley and see how much it comes to life.

3. The accumulated rattles and squeaks at cold start up after 13 years. They do tend to go away after warm up - especially with the top down.

I'm not inclined to mention the radio in my MY2000 as I haven't bothered to enter the radio code since the last time the battery was disconnected and that's been six months or so. The lack of a clock has never bothered me in the least.