Originally Posted by dlq04

Says you. I've only needed a flat bed once in over 40 years and that was due to a generator failure. It was midnight I wasn't prepared to replace it with the spare I carry. In that same time I've had a few roadside repairs but none from lack of maintenance. I've had new coils fail, new rotors fail, etc. but there's nothing I can do about the quality of crap from Asia. I just took a quick glance at my maintenance record for the past five years - all routine. I developed a leaking front shock at the end of last summer; the same shocks that were on the car when I bought it 14 years ago. Last fall was the first time I ever removed the fill hole bolt since I don't believe in tempting fate - a shock is either leak proof or not. Since then I've been adding fluid to it till I can exchange them.

Rob, being the nice guy that I am I will share with you my annual Spring checklist. For those unfamiliar with living with 60 year old cars it may seem excessive but it really isn't and doesn't take that long.

Annual MGA Lube & Inspection Checklist – last update 4/13/18

Shocks
Bounce each fender. 1 to 1-1/2 bounces before resting is good. No reason to top up unless leaking.
It essential the shock top is clean before removing the fill plug to prevent dirt entering. Top up till fluid hits bottom of the screw hole. Bounce the car several times to expel air before replacing the fill plug.
Hydraulic jack oil is ISO 32 hydraulic oil, the equivalent to SAE 10W. Recommended over using engine oil as is anti-foaming, non-detergent, and high temp tolerant. Total shock capacity is 5 oz.

Jack up MGA level on four stands & shake to ensure safe.

Change engine oil & filter

Transmission oil level
Add Castrol GTX 20w50 as needed using red fill spout.

Wheels & tires
In neutral, spin & check rims with a screwdriver. Movement should not exceed 1/8” in/out or up/down. Excessive tire movement at 12 & 6 indicates a worn kingpin. Excessive tire movement at 9 & 3 indicates a loose tie rod end or inner ball joint wear. Clunks indicate worn splines. Check born-on- date if tires are aging.

Remove wheels & inspect hubs
As splines wear they become sharper in appearance, more pointed, & narrow. Measure hub size - new: 2.450", good: 2.440", operative: 2.430"; borderline: 2.425", & dangerous: 2.410". Lube hubs with a coat of Vaseline.

Wheel bearings
If greased, do not over grease as grease heats up & expands.

Differential oil level
Use 3/8" ratchet to remove plug. Add Valvoline ‘Standard’80/90as needed using 80/90-hand pump can.

Rear brakes
Remove drums & inspect shoes, piston movement, springs, & lever movement. Lightly sand drums & shoes. Clean with brake cleaner & a sponge paintbrush. Replace drum if worn larger than 10.060 inches.

Rear oil seal
Check for oil contamination due to a failed oil seal. Goldspec part number 01 235 is correct replacement O-ring, with new oil seal & paper gasket. Hub nut torque 140 pounds.

Brake adjuster
Back off adjuster completely & lube. Replace drums & adjust by tightening & then backing off one click.

Rear suspension [always tighten rear springs annually]
Insure leaf springs double nuts tight. Check for spring separation. Inspect shocks & links.

Gas tank
Insure no leaks especially at sending unit. Replace fuel filter if needed.

Driveshaft
Use pair ½” wrenches ensure driveshaft bolts, front & rear, tight.

Cruise control speed pickup
Wipe pickup and magnets with a paper towel to remove any oil film.

Lube U-joints
Grease front and rear. Note rear u-joint nipple is buried.

Underside
Empty oil catch pan, clean excessive oil off frame, replace diaper mop.

Front suspension [always tighten coil springs plate annually]
Inspect wishbone rubber seals, kingpins, tie rod ends, A arms, & coil springs.

Lube front suspension [always do annually]
Grease 2 kingpin nipples, upper & lower, jacking up each side under the spring pan to release the weight. Pump grease until it runs out along the kingpin. Use 45° pliers to pop off grease hose if the nozzle sticks on the grease nipples. Newer steering arm ends no longer have a nipple to grease

Master cylinder
Check level. Normally brake fluid level should be good unless there is a leak or pad wear.

Front brakes
Replace in pads down to 1/16”. Replace disc if 0.34” or less; new would be 0.40”.

Replace brake fluid every few years.
Replace using “silicone’ brake fluid, DOT 5. Bleeding sequence is LR, RR, LF, RF using long single slow strokes.

Hand brake
Test & exercise hand brake & adjust cable if needed.

Lube steering rack
Add Valvoline DuraBlend80/90 using 11/16" BSF open end if needed. Inspect rubber gaiters for splits, clamps, & steering column.

Lube hood latch, trunk latch, and door latches
Spray latch & cable with WD40 or similar.

Replace wheels & tires
Set on ground. Check tire pressures, 28 front & 28 back. Check spare tire pressure.

Fan belt
Check for wear. Should have ½” play on lower side; tighten if needed.

Lube generator
A couple squirts of 3&1 oil

Coolant hoses
Check for coolant leaks. Almost always a hose leak is at clamp, not in middle.

Replace coolant every few years
Flush & replace as rust inhibitors wear out. Use 50/50 mix of water & Prestone coolant.

Wiper blades
Clean with rubbing alcohol using a green scrub pad.

Battery
Clean battery & frame ground

Originally Posted by Legal Bill

What, you no longer have SU carbs [once I have them set up right I never touch them again - ever] or fuel pump [no maintenance needed; just carry a spare Lucus or aftermarket] ? I know you have an electronic distributor, but do you check the timing? [you forgot valve adjustment which I have on my do list; but only because it has been 25,000 miles since I last did it] What about the door hinges? [ops] testing the steering rack bolts? [darn] My god, man, the spokes on the wire wheels won't test themselves!! [such neglect] How about that voltage regulator points? [actually I did clean them last year]

By the way, on the heater valve, did you try closing it if it was open, or opening it if it was closed? Sometimes the opposite position reduces the leak. [you bet, it was a lost cause]

Originally Posted by dlq04

Having said all that, I have to say something here. I ordered Koolmat booties for the float bowls to help correct vapor lock in extremely hot conditions. Joe Curto said they do wonders for Healeys. One of the two I received wasn't sized properly so I'm returning it today for an exchange. TBD how effective they are.

Originally Posted by Legal Bill

Dave, you MUST check and fill the SU dashpots for oil!!! I never heard of the bootie. I'll have to look into that. My current project in que is the installation of the Texas Cooler fan.

Originally Posted by dlq04

Link to the booties (called Koozies) Float Bowl Koozies - JOE CURTO, INC.

Bill, I know I should switch to the lighter and safer fan as well due to metal fatigue.

BTW, I called Joe this AM and he is sending me a replacement along with a prepaid return label. He is really good to work with. For some time now I thought of sending him a spare set of carbs and having him redo them - as he's the best in the business at rebuilding them. One of those when I get around 2 it.

Originally Posted by dlq04

Bill, I have been busting butt this week on the MG - replaced front shocks and replaced water pump (both were leaking), plus did my spring maintenance (oil, lube, etc.) and installed the float bowl koozies. Great idea, bad, bad design. Clearly designed as a workbench project rather than on the car. It took two of us working together probably 1.5 hours to install them on the SU's when on the car. I plan to call him tomorrow and offer my suggestions that would make them a 5 minute job by one person! Too bad I didn't have a new light fan; it was a perfect time to put it on but the original still looked OK so I just replaced all the hoses and fan belt.