Shooting RAW - a discussion
Originally Posted by Lainey' timestamp='1395683633' post='23078557
Scooter what about if you are getting print done or do you print your own?
OK Lainey here's the skinny.
part of the way that they get the images to be smaller is they simplify the color map.
putting it differently they smush the colors into a nearest color value.
to do this they create averages of all of the colors and replace it with a something close that a bunch of other pixels also have.
Once that replacement is done the original color information is lost. for the most part this works well.
that is until you have a whole bunch of color tones that are close but are a gradient.
On those circumstances they will show up as banded images. snow scenes do this a lot.
shoot raw if you care about image quality.
part of the way that they get the images to be smaller is they simplify the color map.
putting it differently they smush the colors into a nearest color value.
to do this they create averages of all of the colors and replace it with a something close that a bunch of other pixels also have.
Once that replacement is done the original color information is lost. for the most part this works well.
that is until you have a whole bunch of color tones that are close but are a gradient.
On those circumstances they will show up as banded images. snow scenes do this a lot.
shoot raw if you care about image quality.
OK, reasons I don't think I should bother with RAW files yet..............
1. They take up too much space on my computer
2. They eat up memory cards
3. I can process fairly large JPEG files from my camera using Picasa/Photo scape or other programs and retain the original image, should I want to change edits
and not be so frustrated/feel dumb. I have had fairly large photos printed from edited JPEG files which, to me, have plenty of clarity.
4. I am not trying to make a living with my hobby. One of the things I took away from the brief photo class I took was to take pics that are "pleasing to you."
I am not trying to pass my pics off as professional. I am pleased if someone likes a photo I've taken enough to want to display it in their home.
5. A hobby should be FUN.
6. As much as I'd like to learn how to use lightroom, I do not have time now, to take a course, or spend hours at the computer learning it.
Reasons I should consider RAW files and learn how to process
1. It's ALWAYS good to work one's brain
2. I will have much better images available to me to work with once I figure out what I'm doing
1. They take up too much space on my computer
2. They eat up memory cards
3. I can process fairly large JPEG files from my camera using Picasa/Photo scape or other programs and retain the original image, should I want to change edits
and not be so frustrated/feel dumb. I have had fairly large photos printed from edited JPEG files which, to me, have plenty of clarity.
4. I am not trying to make a living with my hobby. One of the things I took away from the brief photo class I took was to take pics that are "pleasing to you."
I am not trying to pass my pics off as professional. I am pleased if someone likes a photo I've taken enough to want to display it in their home.
5. A hobby should be FUN.
6. As much as I'd like to learn how to use lightroom, I do not have time now, to take a course, or spend hours at the computer learning it.
Reasons I should consider RAW files and learn how to process
1. It's ALWAYS good to work one's brain
2. I will have much better images available to me to work with once I figure out what I'm doing
Lainey-
I think you're assessment is fair. It's really up to you as to what you want and how to get it.
Now, saying that, here's some more information.
- A typical JPEG is about 10-20% of the file size of a RAW file. That's because there's algorithms to save file space at the expense of some quality. Similar to what BoltonBlue says, the jpeg file has less information because it generalizes some parts of the picture. In some cases, this process can have a dramatic impact on quality, and at other times it may not be noticeable at all. You can often choose the compression ratio in an application. The higher the ration, the less space, and the less quality.
- Another thing that happens when you have the camera shoot just a jpg is that you are trusting the camera to make decisions on that processing when it takes the pictures based on the rules it knows and the algorithms is has for processing. I'd think that if you use the in camera functions to change the image characteristics (vivid, bold, etc...) that would affect the processing algorithms.
- Lastly, the jpg format is lossy. Effectively, every time you adjust the picture and save it, it re-processes it to save space. If you do this over and over again the generalizations made during the first save get worse and worse. Depending on the type of edit. again, the impact can be dramatic or trivial.
- If you choose to shoot jpg only, always use the highest setting for resolution and file size. It will give you the most flexibility at a later date.
While you can manipulate many things in the jpg file directly, there are some things that I don't believe you can do unless you use the raw file. With a raw file, I can manipulate the exposure and white balance directly. You can do similar tricks on the jpg, but you won't get the same results. With the raw file, you can also go back to the original, manipulate it a different way, and save another jpg to use.
Some also mentioned, and I think its a workflow issue- I often post up just a jpg for many things. For my portfolio, I almost always process raw files, and for printing I always start with a raw file. I only have a 12 MB camera, so while the differential is significant (1.5- 2 MB jpgs to about 11 MB raw files), the total space per image is roughly 13-14 MB. With a newer camera, I could easily see that getting to 20 MB. I've solved that recently with a 3 TB storage system, which is one of the downfalls of digital photography. You don't need box upon box and album upon album to store things, but you do need more disk space. I also have a little script I run that compares the files in a directory, so when I delete the jpg (what I use for quick preview to select what I keep/don't keep), it then removes the raw file. For me that works.
I've been toying with Lightroom and Bridge for processing, and I keep going back to Photoshop. I haven't spent the time yet to figure out the changes I need to make (in workflow mostly) to use the other tools.
Hope that helps
For a while I was shooting both RAW and JPEG, but doing that took a lot of space. I use Adobe LR4 and I spent some time watching videos and learning a lot about the program.
I learned a few things for my casual shooting:
-using Basic from the Develop tab is the easiest way to get results.
-presents are fantastic
-I could make any size JPEG from LR4, so they don't look compressed on social media sites like facebook.
I learned a few things for my casual shooting:
-using Basic from the Develop tab is the easiest way to get results.
-presents are fantastic
-I could make any size JPEG from LR4, so they don't look compressed on social media sites like facebook.
Thanks, guys. Good explanation Gary. I'm not sure I have the best "eye" when it comes to some of the tones/white balance, etc. I adjusted one RAW file the other day, and when comparing the two, my +1 thought the original looked better than my edited file.
I'm a little lost when it comes to selecting file size and that ratio stuff, but I do save as a high quality when offered that option. Photo scape does offer that option.
I always shoot JPEG at the highest resolution possible. Memory cards are cheap. Maybe I'll pick up a few more.
I do like the idea of having a high quality unaltered RAW file available down the line for different edits.
Maybe for a while, I'll shoot both RAW and JPEG, and do some immediate selection of those pics that I think are keepers and save the RAW files on those, while deleting the non keepers. I still get plenty of non keepers.
When time permits, I'll look a bit harder to find a photography course. There is still much to learn, and down the line, I may move on to learning other processing programs.
Keep the info coming, folks!
I'm a little lost when it comes to selecting file size and that ratio stuff, but I do save as a high quality when offered that option. Photo scape does offer that option.
I always shoot JPEG at the highest resolution possible. Memory cards are cheap. Maybe I'll pick up a few more.
I do like the idea of having a high quality unaltered RAW file available down the line for different edits.
Maybe for a while, I'll shoot both RAW and JPEG, and do some immediate selection of those pics that I think are keepers and save the RAW files on those, while deleting the non keepers. I still get plenty of non keepers.
When time permits, I'll look a bit harder to find a photography course. There is still much to learn, and down the line, I may move on to learning other processing programs.
Keep the info coming, folks!
The next class I take will be for PS Elements.
Originally Posted by Lainey' timestamp='1395753084' post='23080009
When time permits, I'll look a bit harder to find a photography course. There is still much to learn, and down the line, I may move on to learning other processing programs.
The next class I take will be for PS Elements.
Local camera shop owner offers private lessons at $50.00/hr. Out of my budget. There have been other "on the street" seminars, with a photographer and a group (small)
. They do this in Boston and other areas. Sounds like a fun day and the price for the day is reasonable. I like the idea of a hands on group class/lesson, working on specific areas.Some day.....
you can try lynda.com. they offer quite a few online classes for many software packages.
Also look for a meetup in your area for a photo club. The prices vary. Our local meetup is $5/year - really just to pay for the site. Everyone who goes volunteers to help move tables, set up the projector, pick topics and events. We have monthly meetings with assignments and then critique each other. some of the working pros do little seminars or we've done trips designed for a special topic. Sometimes on the road, sometimes in a studio.
Other meetups might be $10/$20 a session. I think those tend to run like a class, are held by stores/studios/pros and its a way to make money. Ours isn't.
Also look for a meetup in your area for a photo club. The prices vary. Our local meetup is $5/year - really just to pay for the site. Everyone who goes volunteers to help move tables, set up the projector, pick topics and events. We have monthly meetings with assignments and then critique each other. some of the working pros do little seminars or we've done trips designed for a special topic. Sometimes on the road, sometimes in a studio.
Other meetups might be $10/$20 a session. I think those tend to run like a class, are held by stores/studios/pros and its a way to make money. Ours isn't.
Hi Everyone! Haven't posted for a while. This topic is interesting.
I shoot only RAW files with my cameras, because I don't want to throw away any pixel information from the digital file. I process in Photoshop CS6 and print off pictures or post on the web in the jpeg format. Even though I might "throw away" 50-80% of the pixel information when I resize for web publication, I find that I can more adjustments starting from RAW. Obviously, storage space could be a problem, but I store all my RAW files on a 3TB external hard drive.
I shoot only RAW files with my cameras, because I don't want to throw away any pixel information from the digital file. I process in Photoshop CS6 and print off pictures or post on the web in the jpeg format. Even though I might "throw away" 50-80% of the pixel information when I resize for web publication, I find that I can more adjustments starting from RAW. Obviously, storage space could be a problem, but I store all my RAW files on a 3TB external hard drive.









