BEST CLEANING PRODUCTS FOR S2000 IN RED
Hi guys I have just bought a s2000 in red and was wondering what are the best products/polishes/polishers to use.. Now do people use certain products for the red colour..
Help appreciated please
Help appreciated please
this would be a great compound/polish/sealant/orbital polisher kit
Griot's 6 inch orbital polisher swirl remover kit
Griot's 6 inch orbital polisher swirl remover kit
i no of the new EP801 rotary i it is a very good machine indeed,
id stay clear of group buy package deals dnt get the best products,
before all the polishing you NEED
1.IronX (For removal Chemical fallout)
2.A Tar remover ie (Tardis or Tarmalade )(am Selling a Full tube of Tarmalade if u want to buy it..
3.Claybar (Removes dirt that is ingrained in the pain)
4.Microfiber Cloths
is the car paint work in good condition?
With it has swirls and RDS (Random scratches)
then i would suggest;
scholl S17 with CG Hex light cutting pad
then S30 to refine and to get a epic finish use nano polish super gloss with Scholl waffler finishing pad..
lime prime by hand preps the paint for Glaze
after that Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze or Prima Amigo Polymer Glaze
Followed by a nice quality wax like Chemical Guys - 50/50 or Chemical Guys - Pete's 53 for depth of gloss
or a nice sealant like Finishkare 1000p or Gtechniq Crystal Lacquer - C1+ Kit or Dodo Juice Supernatural Hybrid Sealant
these products will make your car looking amazing and here is a guide for you to achieve the finish on machine polishing
THE TECHNIQUE
Apply a spray of water to the pad to wet it, and then apply some polish or compound to the pad.
Work on a very small area at a time - roughly 1' square, nothing more. Dab the machine around this area to apply the polish.
Turn the machine on at speed 3. Support the weight of the machine, one hand underneath the back to hold it up and the other on the handle/head to guide direction without applying weight to the machine. Any hold is good though, so long as there is no weight over the head of the PC. Move the polisher slowly across the area in overlapping strokes, at a speed of around 1/2" per second - very slowly. You should get around ten passes before the polish starts to go clear and look like its drying and ready to buff off.
Rather than buff off the residue, spray the pad with some more water and repeat the above step. Speed 3, no weight, very slow passes. The polish hazes up again and you have more work time. Make more slow passes until the polish begins to go clear again.
After two hits at speed 3, spray the pad with water and move onto speed 5, again no weight and no pressure and make slow passes by moving the PC at about 1/2" per second.
Finally, spray the pad with water again, and move to speed 6 and this time apply pressure to the PC for a final single pass over the area at about 1" per second. The polish will likely be pretty clear after this stage, so buff off the residue. If you examine the pad, I found that it actually looked quite clean after this, very little white polish left there.
If you've used an aggressive compound, you will induce micromarring with this method, but this can be easily removed using a finishing polish.
Hope This helps buddy
id stay clear of group buy package deals dnt get the best products,
before all the polishing you NEED
1.IronX (For removal Chemical fallout)
2.A Tar remover ie (Tardis or Tarmalade )(am Selling a Full tube of Tarmalade if u want to buy it..
3.Claybar (Removes dirt that is ingrained in the pain)
4.Microfiber Cloths
is the car paint work in good condition?
With it has swirls and RDS (Random scratches)
then i would suggest;
scholl S17 with CG Hex light cutting pad
then S30 to refine and to get a epic finish use nano polish super gloss with Scholl waffler finishing pad..
lime prime by hand preps the paint for Glaze
after that Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze or Prima Amigo Polymer Glaze
Followed by a nice quality wax like Chemical Guys - 50/50 or Chemical Guys - Pete's 53 for depth of gloss
or a nice sealant like Finishkare 1000p or Gtechniq Crystal Lacquer - C1+ Kit or Dodo Juice Supernatural Hybrid Sealant
these products will make your car looking amazing and here is a guide for you to achieve the finish on machine polishing
THE TECHNIQUE
Apply a spray of water to the pad to wet it, and then apply some polish or compound to the pad.
Work on a very small area at a time - roughly 1' square, nothing more. Dab the machine around this area to apply the polish.
Turn the machine on at speed 3. Support the weight of the machine, one hand underneath the back to hold it up and the other on the handle/head to guide direction without applying weight to the machine. Any hold is good though, so long as there is no weight over the head of the PC. Move the polisher slowly across the area in overlapping strokes, at a speed of around 1/2" per second - very slowly. You should get around ten passes before the polish starts to go clear and look like its drying and ready to buff off.
Rather than buff off the residue, spray the pad with some more water and repeat the above step. Speed 3, no weight, very slow passes. The polish hazes up again and you have more work time. Make more slow passes until the polish begins to go clear again.
After two hits at speed 3, spray the pad with water and move onto speed 5, again no weight and no pressure and make slow passes by moving the PC at about 1/2" per second.
Finally, spray the pad with water again, and move to speed 6 and this time apply pressure to the PC for a final single pass over the area at about 1" per second. The polish will likely be pretty clear after this stage, so buff off the residue. If you examine the pad, I found that it actually looked quite clean after this, very little white polish left there.
If you've used an aggressive compound, you will induce micromarring with this method, but this can be easily removed using a finishing polish.
Hope This helps buddy
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i no of the new EP801 rotary i it is a very good machine indeed,
id stay clear of group buy package deals dnt get the best products,
before all the polishing you NEED
1.IronX (For removal Chemical fallout)
2.A Tar remover ie (Tardis or Tarmalade )(am Selling a Full tube of Tarmalade if u want to buy it..
3.Claybar (Removes dirt that is ingrained in the pain)
4.Microfiber Cloths
is the car paint work in good condition?
With it has swirls and RDS (Random scratches)
then i would suggest;
scholl S17 with CG Hex light cutting pad
then S30 to refine and to get a epic finish use nano polish super gloss with Scholl waffler finishing pad..
lime prime by hand preps the paint for Glaze
after that Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze or Prima Amigo Polymer Glaze
Followed by a nice quality wax like Chemical Guys - 50/50 or Chemical Guys - Pete's 53 for depth of gloss
or a nice sealant like Finishkare 1000p or Gtechniq Crystal Lacquer - C1+ Kit or Dodo Juice Supernatural Hybrid Sealant
these products will make your car looking amazing and here is a guide for you to achieve the finish on machine polishing
THE TECHNIQUE
Apply a spray of water to the pad to wet it, and then apply some polish or compound to the pad.
Work on a very small area at a time - roughly 1' square, nothing more. Dab the machine around this area to apply the polish.
Turn the machine on at speed 3. Support the weight of the machine, one hand underneath the back to hold it up and the other on the handle/head to guide direction without applying weight to the machine. Any hold is good though, so long as there is no weight over the head of the PC. Move the polisher slowly across the area in overlapping strokes, at a speed of around 1/2" per second - very slowly. You should get around ten passes before the polish starts to go clear and look like its drying and ready to buff off.
Rather than buff off the residue, spray the pad with some more water and repeat the above step. Speed 3, no weight, very slow passes. The polish hazes up again and you have more work time. Make more slow passes until the polish begins to go clear again.
After two hits at speed 3, spray the pad with water and move onto speed 5, again no weight and no pressure and make slow passes by moving the PC at about 1/2" per second.
Finally, spray the pad with water again, and move to speed 6 and this time apply pressure to the PC for a final single pass over the area at about 1" per second. The polish will likely be pretty clear after this stage, so buff off the residue. If you examine the pad, I found that it actually looked quite clean after this, very little white polish left there.
If you've used an aggressive compound, you will induce micromarring with this method, but this can be easily removed using a finishing polish.
Hope This helps buddy
id stay clear of group buy package deals dnt get the best products,
before all the polishing you NEED
1.IronX (For removal Chemical fallout)
2.A Tar remover ie (Tardis or Tarmalade )(am Selling a Full tube of Tarmalade if u want to buy it..
3.Claybar (Removes dirt that is ingrained in the pain)
4.Microfiber Cloths
is the car paint work in good condition?
With it has swirls and RDS (Random scratches)
then i would suggest;
scholl S17 with CG Hex light cutting pad
then S30 to refine and to get a epic finish use nano polish super gloss with Scholl waffler finishing pad..
lime prime by hand preps the paint for Glaze
after that Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze or Prima Amigo Polymer Glaze
Followed by a nice quality wax like Chemical Guys - 50/50 or Chemical Guys - Pete's 53 for depth of gloss
or a nice sealant like Finishkare 1000p or Gtechniq Crystal Lacquer - C1+ Kit or Dodo Juice Supernatural Hybrid Sealant
these products will make your car looking amazing and here is a guide for you to achieve the finish on machine polishing
THE TECHNIQUE
Apply a spray of water to the pad to wet it, and then apply some polish or compound to the pad.
Work on a very small area at a time - roughly 1' square, nothing more. Dab the machine around this area to apply the polish.
Turn the machine on at speed 3. Support the weight of the machine, one hand underneath the back to hold it up and the other on the handle/head to guide direction without applying weight to the machine. Any hold is good though, so long as there is no weight over the head of the PC. Move the polisher slowly across the area in overlapping strokes, at a speed of around 1/2" per second - very slowly. You should get around ten passes before the polish starts to go clear and look like its drying and ready to buff off.
Rather than buff off the residue, spray the pad with some more water and repeat the above step. Speed 3, no weight, very slow passes. The polish hazes up again and you have more work time. Make more slow passes until the polish begins to go clear again.
After two hits at speed 3, spray the pad with water and move onto speed 5, again no weight and no pressure and make slow passes by moving the PC at about 1/2" per second.
Finally, spray the pad with water again, and move to speed 6 and this time apply pressure to the PC for a final single pass over the area at about 1" per second. The polish will likely be pretty clear after this stage, so buff off the residue. If you examine the pad, I found that it actually looked quite clean after this, very little white polish left there.
If you've used an aggressive compound, you will induce micromarring with this method, but this can be easily removed using a finishing polish.
Hope This helps buddy
I will have a look at the products,
Is the polisher you mentioned above a good one?
And is it any difference to the das 6 polisher?
It's just I've heard that because of the Hondas soft paint you should only gt certain polishers, ones that are not too powerful, any advice on this please!
Thanks
Any chance of just getting a tar remover, a polish and a final sealant?
It's like a minefield with all products, can I not just use as few products as possible with at least as fewer stages too?
It's like a minefield with all products, can I not just use as few products as possible with at least as fewer stages too?



what colour is your S2k ? iv got a GP White now looks super GP White