pretty technical forum you got here. I decided to check it out and theres just another world to washing your car that i didnt know. Somehow I ended up on this site autogeek.com and ended up ordering Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car and a Mothers Genuine Lambswool washmit. Before i always used a basic car wash soap and just dried the car with the absorber (still probably will ). Just from reading I see that pinnacle souvernior is a really good wax but way out of my budget. Poorboys seems to be good from what ive read and you can use it in the florida sun here. ill probably invest in the grit guard as well. What else do you guys recommend for when i want to wax the car? I dont have a porter cable or buffer...

 

welcome to the board!

you are on the right track...
poorboys and a lambswool mitt are great choices-

the first step of detailing is washing, drying and inspection.
when you inspect you are looking to see if the car is smooth (feel it with the backs of your fingers)- if it is, you go to the next step. if its not, then its time to clay the car.
once the car is smooth, you inspect for swirls and light scratches- if the paint is perfect, you can either wax (or use a synthetic) or if you have good protection on the car you are finished-

(somewhat oversimplified, but a good overview)

much more info can be found in the stickies at the top of our page- check them out. especially mikeyc's guide to detailing.

we look forward to helping you out, and more importantly, look forward to pics of your clean car! (after you post, be sure to pm me for your wacko badge!)
- and by the way, its o.k. to spread the work about this forum too!!

 

awesome! my supplies are suppose to arrive today, so i can get started. My car was recently repainted on the passenger door and quartel panel so i cant wax that part for 45 days.. Whats the difference with wax and a synthetic? and do i need a porter cable to do the job right?
thanks again!

 

wax is carnuba... from a plant.
synthetic is man made- usually lasts quite a bit longer than wax.

several of us use both- synthetic first (zaino is an example of a synthetic), and finish with a wax (p21s is the one that i like best).

you will need the porter cable when you decide to remove swirls (called polishing)...

i also use the machine to apply and remove synthetics, but that is completely optional. it is a good way to learn to use the machine- so you dont really need the machine. its more whether you want the machine!
(i used mine many years ago several times to wax before i ever tried to polish)

 

show us the pics when you've finished

" Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds Concentrated"

good choice

oh and welcome

 

roger that, i plan on washing the car first thing in the morning. ill take pics and post them. I dont really think I have any swirl marks, at least none that i can see. The car is silver. Does poorboys make a good wax/synthetic as well or should i go with the brand you guys recommend p21??

 

I have no experience with P21, but if you decide that's the wax you want to get, get the re-packaged S100 instead- half the price, for the same product, which should be available at a local Harley Dealership.

Poorboys Natty is a carnauba, and I like it as a topper for my sealant. Easy on, easy off.

Learn from my experience, and never apply it in the sun, and let set for hours before removing. If applying in the sun, do 2 panels, then remove on the first!

I personally prefer sealants for maximum flake 'poppage' on silvers.

As a side note, make sure that all the prep is up to snuff before purchasing big money lsp's. 90% of the 'look' you want to achieve is in the prep, and the last 10% being your lsp (last step product).

Good luck!

 

poorboys does make a good wax...

http://www.poorboysworld.com/natty-blue.htm

i would put on a synthetic first though if you want longer lasting protection and a bit more depth.

for a new detail person, i recommend finish first- easy to use. it does need to cure, but all directions are on the can and might be on their website too.

http://www.finishfirstpolish.com/

they call it a polish, but its really not a polish- its a protectant...

 

wow there is so much stuff and processes out there that it can boggle my mind. Let my try to recap this, since my car was recently re painted on the rear pass. side I cant touch that for 45 days. (t minus 38 days lol) the rest of the car doesnt feel THAT smooth to the back of the hand like wanabe suggested. So I should then clay bar the car. Any clay bar in particular? So let me see if i kind of got this right..
When the time comes, first ill
1. Wash the car normally
2. Clay bar it
3. use a synthetic (sealant the samething??)
4. wax (carnubera)
5. diff stages in waxing??

is that somewhat right? lol.. and what do i do regulary besides wash it to keep that effect going? I see alot of people say there on there 10th coat of whatever and counting. are they referring to synthetic, wax, or sealent? sorry for all the newbie questions. im sure ill catch on eventually. I just want that show car look like most of you!
Thanks again,
oliver

 

Being a silver car, I'll bet that you don't need as many layers of sealant as say a black-show car. (Mainly because silver is hard to make silver glow, and after a quality lsp, it's hard to further the results; time/money is better spent in the prep stage IMO)

Most of those that you hear having "10th coat, are probably Zaino-maniacs. I for one, stand in the corner where after 2-coats, the differences in additional one's are near negligble, and the second coat is only for even coverage.)

If the paint feels rough, and not smooth-as-glass, a claybar will definitely help out. If you prefer to purchase over-the-counter, Meguiars/Mothers both make a solid otc claybar. Just remember to use PLENTY of lube!!!

Your process looks spot on. Just replace #5 with a spray wax, as a booster for your sealant/waxes, to prolong the durability. (Duragloss Aquawax is my favorite, as is FinishKare 425 for anti-dust)

Good luck!