I have used the PC 7424 on my TSX before during the summer with some alright results. It had small scratches and swirls all over....and I mean all over. Being the first time I was using a PC I was a little scared. So When it was all said it done, the paint looked awesome, yet I still have very many small scratches in the paint along with swirls in some lighting. Yet for my first time I was just happy it all went well..

I used the PC 7424 with a white pad and the Menzerna SIP first. Followed by an orange pad and the Nano Polish.

So now I have some free time to do my CR that had been sitting on the lot for a long time. I started off the a wash and clay yesterday. It was about 45 deg. outside. I then washed the car again with NXT. Dryed it and pulled in into the garage. I'm not sure what I did, but the clay bar left maring looking trails all over the paint. I used the spray and kept it moist. It's not marks caused by not having it damp enough and the bar actually leaves some clay on the paint. It's like hardly there but easy to see in a way if that makes sense.

So I start with the Menzerna SIP and a white pad. First of all it's very hard to get off of the paint. Does this mean I am not working it in for long enough? Is it better to go very slow over the area, or a little faster and just go over the area a lot ore times? I've watched lot's of videos and people seem to do it differently.

Once again after finishing the hood on the CR the results are the same as the TSX. Paint looks great (even though it was hard to get the polish off) but there are still scratches and fine swirls. Should I use a different pad? Work the area longer and not as slow? I've got the black, orange and white pads in the garage now.

Very scatterd post I know, but I don't want to half ass the CR like I feel I did on the TSX.

 

We need to know what brand pads you are using. Not all pad manufacturers use the same colors on the same type/firmness of pad. If you're using lake country pads, then you used the pads in reverse order on your TSX. Might possibly be the same thing happening with the CR. We need more info and possibly pictures to be able to help you out.

 

I believe they are Lake Country....All they say in the package is Patent Pending Made In The USA.

Used White with the Super Intensive and Orange on the Nano Polish.

 

If it's LC CCS pads, which I'm guessing right now, you have the pads backwards. You should be using the SIP with the "Orange pad" and use the Nano with the "White pad".

The following link will have the color order and what it should be used for.

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-ccs-6pack.html

(Instructions are at the bottom of the page of the following link)
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-porter-ca...ow-car-kit.html




As for the polish....you kind of have to get a grasp of working in the polish till it gets kind of clear with Menzerna. Air Temprature and surface temprature will cause different results. For me, I live in California, during the cold winter right now, it takes me a while to break the polish down. But during the summer, it's soo warm that the polish drys too quickly and I have to do a extra polishing step to make it gleam new.(or it could just be me getting lazy). So, results could vary.

 

Thanks! I did a fender with the orange as well as the spoiler. Still was tough to get off and sort of smears. About how many mins are you guys working the polish for a 2x2 area? I'm having a hard time telling when it's worked.

I wonder if my SIP is ruined from being left in the garage when it got below freezing.

 

God, this sounds exactly like the problems I used to have.... I switched to a different brand of towels, and had better results. You also might be working the product too long. Does it start to dust/splatter? If so you're working it too long.

 

It's hard to tell without being there but my guess is you're working the polish too long. When polishing its a good idea to have a bottle of QD or IPA to help remove any polish residue.

Also, when using the PC it doesn't have much power so you want to work in the machine across the paint SLOWLY. This is why I traded in my PC for a Flex. It's MUCH more powerful and it cuts down on the time I spend polishing.

 

Yes it does start to dust and such at times. I fell like I harldy have been working the polish in though. I will try some of my different brand towels and see how that works.

Yeah I have been using some QD when it's hard to get off. Rear that on your detail guide site.

How often should the pads be replaced. Do you guys wash (if so how) them and clean them to use again?

 

I go maybe a minute, to minute and a half in cold weather. If it's dusting, you're working it too long.

What kind of towels are you using? For removing polish, I like to use ultra smooth mf towels, not cotton ones. I REALLY like Chemical Guys Edgeless towels. I'd have to say DD's ubers are a close second.

You might also be using TOO MUCH polish. Do you re-apply polish in between sections? Here is what I did yesterday when I was polishing in 40 degree garage, with a propane heater running:

1: Put two sprays of Megs Showtime QD on the pad, rub it in to soak the pad a little.
2: Apply about a quarter side of polish (I go around the outsides doing dots, and then a couple dots in the middle), and touch it against the surface, and turn it on uber slow, and spread it out over my working area.
3: Work the polish for a minute and a half or so. If it starts to dust, you're working it too long. It's better to under work it, than over work it. It should come off pretty easily, but it might smear a little. Follow on products are going to help clean up whatever you missed by under working it.
4: I usually alternate between sections, by either doing a spray of QD or a couple more dots of polish. I kinda just went with what looked right. If I noticed it was looking fairly thin when I spread it out on the surface, I'd add some more polish to the pad, and if it looked pretty watery, I'd lay off the QD.

One thing I highly recommend is doing one section to completion, so you know what you're going to need to use, and how much to work with it. Did a section, and then stop early, wipe a little part of it, to see how easy it comes up, then work the left over part a little longer, and keep testing to get an idea of how long you'll have to work the product.

Working one spot to completion also gives you a chance to see what the result will look like ahead of time. As far as pad replacement? I used the same pads to complete the car. Don't cake your pads with polish, and I don't see why using the same pads to do the entire car should be a problem. Make sure you use one pad per product though. Don't try mixing products on the same pad.... unless it's a final step product, like using a sealant, and then a wax on the same pad shortly after.

Make sure you have plenty of towels though. I had 6 towels (Had 12 total, but used some for other things, and don't like using previously used towels, cause I haven't had a good experience with that) and used them all sparingly. I used 3 towels for two types of polishes, and then the rest for my Z-AIO, Jet Seal, Poorboys EX, XXX Carnuba, and then a coat of P21-S. I wish I would have had about 9-12 towels, would have made it easier.

Hope I helped.

 

Awesome thanks for the reponse. So I should spray some quick detailer on the pad before each use. I guess this act like a pad conditioner?

I was deffinetly working the SIP for longer than 2 mins. I will do some more today and work it for less, seeing if it is easier to come off. I really was worried about how much SIP I was using. I did a little ring outside like most say to do, but did not know how thick or thin to apply it. I will try the quarter sized amount.

As for towels, most of mine are the DD Uber Towles.

So could I have messed up my SIP and Nano by leaving it out in the garage while it was like 20? Also is there anything else I can do if scratches still remian after the SIP and orange pad? Will the Nano with a white pad clean up any of the existing scratches or just bring out the paint.