Mkay, so the diff in my car seems to be not so great these days. It appears there is excessive play in the output shaft on the driver's side.

Given that, what should I do? What would be more cost effective?

1. Remove diff and rebuild it.
2. Take my chances and buy a used one on ebay.
3. Park the car, save up and buy reman diff.

I'm personally leaning towards #1. I have a Factory Service Manual and am mostly confident that I can handle rebuilding it.

If not #1, why not? Feel free to try to dissuade me. I really want to do what will be effective for time and money. My baby is almost here so I don't have time to screw around.

 

Check your local junkyard and see if they have a diff you can scrounge up for cheap.

 

I voted for a rebuild so that you know exactly what shape everything is in. Plus if you have it done locally you might get some type of warranty

 

Rebulit for sure. If you have the extra cash, maybe switch up the final gear since it is a rebuld. That is what I did. 4.77, pretty harsh but that is why it is my week car

Of course if the S was my only mode of transportation, I would get a used one. Risk is higher but at least it is running, plus take the time to rebuild the original.

 

If my diff ever goes im going all out and buying a built diff from puddydad. I wouldnt risk buying a used diff unless you feel real lucky.

 

Can't do that here. All these junkyards only have 'MURIKAN cars, "none of that jap crap ya hear, boy!?!"

But yeah, seriously out here (meaning the wastelands of Oklahoma) if you drive Japanese, unless it's a common model (camry, corolla) you can pretty much guarantee next to nothing in parts and knowledge.


If I go rebuild I'll be doing it myself, thanks for the vote, it helps.

I have 4 other cars I can live with 4.77 if it gets me extra fun times on the road courses.

Never heard of puddydad....but now I have I'll look it up. Thanks.

 

4.77's are more fun on the street. You have an ap2, though. Gears equivalent to 4.77's in an ap2 are 4.56/57's.

People who put in 4.77's (in an ap1) and do track days on road courses end up going back to a stock final drive. With shorter gearing there's more shifting and people end up being slower. Also, if you go with 4.77's it makes your diff even weaker since you're missing a tooth now. On top of that you have to get a yellow box, wire it in and recalibrate your speedometer. Otherwise your speedo will read 10% faster and rack up miles in the same rate.

4.77's in an ap2 is similar to 4.90's in an ap1(way too short to be enjoyed, imo). You feel like its faster but it's really not. Just rebuild it back to oem specs. Most cost effective option.

 

think he meant Puddymod:

https://www.hardtopguy.com/store/pro...cat=145&page=1

Expensive option though.

 

Damn Son! Now I need to get me 4.90's lol

 

Yea when my diff goes I am def going with a puddymod 2.5... i mean i know it'll take me forever to save and its a shitload but honestly its proven and built with the upmost care and precision... i am on a used diff for about 45k and havnt had any problems but still ya know, power level being over 370whp and going up i cant be blowing up used 500.00 dollar diffs every 6 months !!

Def a vote for Puddymod !!

check it out bro