11psi oil pressure at idle
#11
#12
Thread Starter
I'm going to pull the pan and rod caps tonight. I don't have an engine hoist or stand so that isnt an option and I really dont have time to pull the motor. Did you change yours with the engine in the car? Did you bother changing the rings while you were at it? And any recommendations on whatever else I should replace while im in there
Last edited by Charper732; 08-18-2017 at 02:50 PM.
#13
Registered User
Doesn't make any sense. Diesels don't typically run cats for one thing and they are dirty running long mileage engines. This oil is geared towards that spectrum which on a clean running engine makes it that much better in my book. This oil was shown to have the highest levels of anti wear from Blackstone tests next to Amsoil posted here recently. Its excellent oil. Popular with boost guys especially. I run it at the road course when I know my oil temps get into the 250-260F range and want the added protection.
Amsoil believes full SAPS formulations are better if your car is not spec'd for low SAPS:
2. Question: Why are different SAPS levels necessary?
Anwer: Some emissions systems and after treatment devices, such as diesel particulate filters (DPFs) and catalysts, are sensitive to the SAPS content of oil and require lower SAPS formulations, such as AFL or AEL. Many vehicles, however, are not equipped with emissions systems that are sensitive to higher SAPS levels; they are best protected by full-SAPS oils, such as EFM.
Other thoughts on low SAPS:
With new rules on emission limits and new engine design especially in the EU, some researchers argued that reducing the amount of SAPS might not be the way forward especially when it comes to additives and engine safety. Reducing SAPS level constrains formulation options, presents a risk to engine integrity and may close out desirable additive and base oil options [5]
#14
I'm going to pull the pan and rod caps tonight. I don't have an engine hoist or stand so that isnt an option and I really dont have time to pull the motor. Did you change yours with the engine in the car? Did you bother changing the rings while you were at it? And any recommendations on whatever else I should replace while im in there
#15
I'm going to pull the pan and rod caps tonight. I don't have an engine hoist or stand so that isnt an option and I really dont have time to pull the motor. Did you change yours with the engine in the car? Did you bother changing the rings while you were at it? And any recommendations on whatever else I should replace while im in there
#16
Thread Starter
Update: found something very interesting. Looks like part of a ball bearing race and some kind of rubber or silicone, its not from the pan though because i always use hondabond. Rod bearings are fine, minus the damage from the debris in the oil
#18
#19
Thread Starter