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11psi oil pressure at idle

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Old 08-18-2017, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Charper732
umm that his higher viscosity than what is recommended stock....anyway I just pulled my inline oil filter going to the turbo and there is fking copper in it...lovely. Now lets just pray its the rods and not the mains.


I know the feeling, several times over
Old 08-18-2017, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky


I know the feeling, several times over
I'm going to pull the pan and rod caps tonight. I don't have an engine hoist or stand so that isnt an option and I really dont have time to pull the motor. Did you change yours with the engine in the car? Did you bother changing the rings while you were at it? And any recommendations on whatever else I should replace while im in there

Last edited by Charper732; 08-18-2017 at 02:50 PM.
Old 08-18-2017, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
Doesn't make any sense. Diesels don't typically run cats for one thing and they are dirty running long mileage engines. This oil is geared towards that spectrum which on a clean running engine makes it that much better in my book. This oil was shown to have the highest levels of anti wear from Blackstone tests next to Amsoil posted here recently. Its excellent oil. Popular with boost guys especially. I run it at the road course when I know my oil temps get into the 250-260F range and want the added protection.
i've run it before as well and have stopped. i don't know if it provides extra protection (compared to what), or less protection, but the general consensus is that SAPS and ZDDP are primary engine protection additives and diesel oil like the rotella have less of this. make of it what you will.

Amsoil believes full SAPS formulations are better if your car is not spec'd for low SAPS:
2. Question: Why are different SAPS levels necessary?
Anwer: Some emissions systems and after treatment devices, such as diesel particulate filters (DPFs) and catalysts, are sensitive to the SAPS content of oil and require lower SAPS formulations, such as AFL or AEL. Many vehicles, however, are not equipped with emissions systems that are sensitive to higher SAPS levels; they are best protected by full-SAPS oils, such as EFM.

Other thoughts on low SAPS:
With new rules on emission limits and new engine design especially in the EU, some researchers argued that reducing the amount of SAPS might not be the way forward especially when it comes to additives and engine safety. Reducing SAPS level constrains formulation options, presents a risk to engine integrity and may close out desirable additive and base oil options [5]
Old 08-18-2017, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Charper732
I'm going to pull the pan and rod caps tonight. I don't have an engine hoist or stand so that isnt an option and I really dont have time to pull the motor. Did you change yours with the engine in the car? Did you bother changing the rings while you were at it? And any recommendations on whatever else I should replace while im in there
I meant losing engines in general, not your specific failure point here. There is some threads on your situation that are fairly recent though. Might look for those.
Old 08-18-2017, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Charper732
I'm going to pull the pan and rod caps tonight. I don't have an engine hoist or stand so that isnt an option and I really dont have time to pull the motor. Did you change yours with the engine in the car? Did you bother changing the rings while you were at it? And any recommendations on whatever else I should replace while im in there
find the root cause before you change the bearings.
Old 08-18-2017, 07:28 PM
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Update: found something very interesting. Looks like part of a ball bearing race and some kind of rubber or silicone, its not from the pan though because i always use hondabond. Rod bearings are fine, minus the damage from the debris in the oil

Old 08-19-2017, 10:28 AM
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Before you change the bearings I would plastigauge them first, just to see if they do need to be changed.

ROD
Old 08-20-2017, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Charper732
Update: found something very interesting. Looks like part of a ball bearing race and some kind of rubber or silicone, its not from the pan though because i always use hondabond. Rod bearings are fine, minus the damage from the debris in the oil
Saw it and the first thing I thought was "I wonder if he's running a Precision Turbo..." Because that's the only place in the engine you'll find a bronze ball bearing race like the one pictured below.

Old 08-21-2017, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Spartarus
Saw it and the first thing I thought was "I wonder if he's running a Precision Turbo..." Because that's the only place in the engine you'll find a bronze ball bearing race like the one pictured below.

thank you for posting this. Ive had nothing but trouble from precision. Luckily the machine shop said they can save my crankshaft
Old 08-21-2017, 07:27 AM
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condolences.


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