LED galore or "I guess I'm a control freak"... (long with pictures)
Luis. That is a most impressive and professional job! Absolutely amazing! All I have to do now is figure out how I can get my car shipped into Portugal so you can do a few upgrades for me. 
What's the "illumination mod"? Are you going to modify the control unit for the panel illumination so that the panel lights automatically turn on at full brilliance (instead of the current dim setting)?
djb80: If you do an internet search for "shift lights", you'll find you can buy several kits (between $45 and about $185) and installation write-ups for sequential shift lights. (I even remember seeing one which allows you to set different shift points for each gear.)

What's the "illumination mod"? Are you going to modify the control unit for the panel illumination so that the panel lights automatically turn on at full brilliance (instead of the current dim setting)?
djb80: If you do an internet search for "shift lights", you'll find you can buy several kits (between $45 and about $185) and installation write-ups for sequential shift lights. (I even remember seeing one which allows you to set different shift points for each gear.)
Thanks for your comments, guys.
Answers...
Chazzy,
The LEDs light up when the engine exceeds an rpm value that you can program. They turn off when the rpm level drops below that value. Say "green on" at 6000 (we've got VTEC), "yellow on" at 8500 rpm (prepare to shift) and "red on" at 9000 (shift!). The red light is a very high intensity one, that is most useful when nudging the rev limiter.
The LCD is used to set rpm points, setting parameters (# of cylinders, ignition type, etc), reset peaks, inspecting peaks, and displaying current rpm in real time.
I mostly bought the circuits. The shift light you can see at www.spa-uk.co.uk. As I reported I had to take it apart as it was too bulky for an easy install. Spa have other interesting instruments.
The LEDs I bought myself. The door handle LEDs are 3V low intensity, yellowish, that I installed serially with a 320ohm resistor connected to a line that is on when you turn on your parking lights. The warning LEDs are small (3mm) hi intensity leds. The blinking function is provided by the gauge so I did not had to worry about that.
Rick,
I think your setup will be ideal if you can tilt the displays sufficiently for the driver to see without having to enrol in yoga classes. That would be my option if I were doing it today. An interesting alternative would be this one:
this would probably fit inside the headunit door (it's 100x75x20mm). It's a full function unit including:
Tachometer
3-stage integral shift light
Speedometer
1-pressure
1-temperature
Laptimer
Performance indicator
6 extra channels available to monitor pressure, temperature and voltage etc.
Unfortunately I had already bought the gauges when I found out that other options were available. Blitz makes thin analog gauges that would open up other installation alternatives.
I also think that LCD displays would match better the dashboard. Red or yellow certainly preferable to my current green...
Of course I still have the alternative to go full analogue. If you remember the dash of the infamous Mugen SS2200, they actually used Defi gauges (the ones I'm using) for everything. Something to think about
cjb80,
The shift light is an easy install. You need +12V, ground and to hack into the tacho line. If you want to do it, I can tell you exactly which one (it's under the passenger side of the dash).
ricosuave,
The tweeters are installed on pods "fibered" into the a-pillar cover. I don't have a separate price for that.
Out of curiosity, the gauges, sensors, etc, were about 500US if I remember well, the spa shift light 200US and the LEDs a dime a dozen. Work will be obviously dependent on whether you do it yourself or have someone do it for you.
My car was out for 3 weeks, but then it was done slowly, with lots of changes on the run and included a full audio install as well.
1Y2ks2k,
ooops, I meant interior light not illumination. It will stay on for a bit upon entering the car and dims gracefully. Modifry, is the master hacker, see http://www.baustnet.com/honda/mods/
Answers...
Chazzy,
The LEDs light up when the engine exceeds an rpm value that you can program. They turn off when the rpm level drops below that value. Say "green on" at 6000 (we've got VTEC), "yellow on" at 8500 rpm (prepare to shift) and "red on" at 9000 (shift!). The red light is a very high intensity one, that is most useful when nudging the rev limiter.
The LCD is used to set rpm points, setting parameters (# of cylinders, ignition type, etc), reset peaks, inspecting peaks, and displaying current rpm in real time.
I mostly bought the circuits. The shift light you can see at www.spa-uk.co.uk. As I reported I had to take it apart as it was too bulky for an easy install. Spa have other interesting instruments.
The LEDs I bought myself. The door handle LEDs are 3V low intensity, yellowish, that I installed serially with a 320ohm resistor connected to a line that is on when you turn on your parking lights. The warning LEDs are small (3mm) hi intensity leds. The blinking function is provided by the gauge so I did not had to worry about that.
Rick,
I think your setup will be ideal if you can tilt the displays sufficiently for the driver to see without having to enrol in yoga classes. That would be my option if I were doing it today. An interesting alternative would be this one:
this would probably fit inside the headunit door (it's 100x75x20mm). It's a full function unit including:
Tachometer
3-stage integral shift light
Speedometer
1-pressure
1-temperature
Laptimer
Performance indicator
6 extra channels available to monitor pressure, temperature and voltage etc.
Unfortunately I had already bought the gauges when I found out that other options were available. Blitz makes thin analog gauges that would open up other installation alternatives.
I also think that LCD displays would match better the dashboard. Red or yellow certainly preferable to my current green...
Of course I still have the alternative to go full analogue. If you remember the dash of the infamous Mugen SS2200, they actually used Defi gauges (the ones I'm using) for everything. Something to think about

cjb80,
The shift light is an easy install. You need +12V, ground and to hack into the tacho line. If you want to do it, I can tell you exactly which one (it's under the passenger side of the dash).
ricosuave,
The tweeters are installed on pods "fibered" into the a-pillar cover. I don't have a separate price for that.
Out of curiosity, the gauges, sensors, etc, were about 500US if I remember well, the spa shift light 200US and the LEDs a dime a dozen. Work will be obviously dependent on whether you do it yourself or have someone do it for you.
My car was out for 3 weeks, but then it was done slowly, with lots of changes on the run and included a full audio install as well.
1Y2ks2k,
ooops, I meant interior light not illumination. It will stay on for a bit upon entering the car and dims gracefully. Modifry, is the master hacker, see http://www.baustnet.com/honda/mods/




Wow! 
