needs help tapping in the accessory tap in the fuse box ...
#1
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needs help tapping in the accessory tap in the fuse box ...
i was trying to hardwire my radar detector and was follwing --> S2000.org Mods - Hardwiring a Radar Detector
i am kinda lost at the last 2 steps.
is there clips or rings i should get so that i can tap into the ground and to the fuse box?
the pic helps but i am still not very clear on how and where to tap into the fuse box itself?
thanks.
i am kinda lost at the last 2 steps.
is there clips or rings i should get so that i can tap into the ground and to the fuse box?
the pic helps but i am still not very clear on how and where to tap into the fuse box itself?
thanks.
#2
The third from the last pic shows you the ground connection. See where his socket is trying the unscrew? This is the main ground termininal. You can either get a "U" or "O" wire end to crimp onto the end of your ground wire and loosen or undo the ground bolt, add yours to it. OR you can get a wire tap and tap into one of those black wires that run to the ground terminal.
The last pic where the green arrow points is your "HOT" with ignition connection. The fuse panel has the "male" end. You need to crimp on a "female" end onto the end of your detector hot wire and push it onto that "male" terminal. Note the size of the male spade connector so you can get the proper size of female for your wire end. I think you need the second larger size connector that is available (ie. not the smallest one).
The last pic where the green arrow points is your "HOT" with ignition connection. The fuse panel has the "male" end. You need to crimp on a "female" end onto the end of your detector hot wire and push it onto that "male" terminal. Note the size of the male spade connector so you can get the proper size of female for your wire end. I think you need the second larger size connector that is available (ie. not the smallest one).
#3
Here's another picture than may be more clear. You want to use a 1/4" female spade connector (called a "spade" because the male end looks like a spade or shovel). They are also called "disconnects" or "quick-connects".
#4
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Yeah...I just did this 2 weekends ago and boy is it nice....and clean. Pretty easy job too, once you have the female spade parts. The pics on this site are just awesome!
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Installed V1 last night in about 30 minutes following the tips described by modifry, loki and the N. Texas s2k website. If you purchased the v1 with the remore display then you have everything needed except for a 1/4" female spade connector. Here is the finished product, you can see the remote in the lower left and the main unit in the uooer right side of the photo:
Route the wires as shown in the N. Texas club photos but don't pull the trim off - instead use a 1" plastic putty knife to pry the trim away from the A pillar and top of the windshield just enought to insert the power cord. Slide the putty knife along the back of plastic trim with one hand pushing the power cord behind the trim with your other hand just like working a zipper. Works great and very fast. This is the only visible wire when you are done, comes out from the back of the upper windshield trim just left of the light:
I put a voltmeter on the open positions in the fusebox and they tested out exactly as described by modiifry (thanks man, you saved me a lot of time figuring this out!). Cut off the male spade connector supplied from valentine and crimped on the female. Cut off the itty bitty forked ground connector supplied by valentine and crimped on another large enough to fit over the ground lug. Connecting the ground wire to the lug took more time than all the other steps because you are on your back upside down in poor light and my 50 year old eyes don't focus too well at that range. The pink connector is the 1/4" male spade in position "C" described by modifry (apologies for the poor quality photo here, didn't know this until I posted). I zip tied each cord individually to make it easy in case I want to redo one or more parts of the install:
I used the visor clip and placed a small adhesive backed plastic "foot" between the clip and the top of the windshield trim. The purpose of the foot is to set the v1 at horizontal and (side benefit) protects the trim from being scratched by the clip. Without the foot the visor clip tended to slide around slightly. The foot seems to stop thet.
You can see the v1 is level and unobstructed by all metal supports for the vinyl top:
With the remote mounted on the left hand side of the dash (I used a 1/2" x 1/2" bit of two way tape) no one can tell you have a radar detector unles they're sitting in the car.
Works great! There's a lot of confidence knowing what is happening around you.
Route the wires as shown in the N. Texas club photos but don't pull the trim off - instead use a 1" plastic putty knife to pry the trim away from the A pillar and top of the windshield just enought to insert the power cord. Slide the putty knife along the back of plastic trim with one hand pushing the power cord behind the trim with your other hand just like working a zipper. Works great and very fast. This is the only visible wire when you are done, comes out from the back of the upper windshield trim just left of the light:
I put a voltmeter on the open positions in the fusebox and they tested out exactly as described by modiifry (thanks man, you saved me a lot of time figuring this out!). Cut off the male spade connector supplied from valentine and crimped on the female. Cut off the itty bitty forked ground connector supplied by valentine and crimped on another large enough to fit over the ground lug. Connecting the ground wire to the lug took more time than all the other steps because you are on your back upside down in poor light and my 50 year old eyes don't focus too well at that range. The pink connector is the 1/4" male spade in position "C" described by modifry (apologies for the poor quality photo here, didn't know this until I posted). I zip tied each cord individually to make it easy in case I want to redo one or more parts of the install:
I used the visor clip and placed a small adhesive backed plastic "foot" between the clip and the top of the windshield trim. The purpose of the foot is to set the v1 at horizontal and (side benefit) protects the trim from being scratched by the clip. Without the foot the visor clip tended to slide around slightly. The foot seems to stop thet.
You can see the v1 is level and unobstructed by all metal supports for the vinyl top:
With the remote mounted on the left hand side of the dash (I used a 1/2" x 1/2" bit of two way tape) no one can tell you have a radar detector unles they're sitting in the car.
Works great! There's a lot of confidence knowing what is happening around you.
#10
In Modifry's picture higher in the thread, the one labeled "BATT" is always on.
The one labeled "IGN" is on when the key is all the way in the "run" position.
Alas none of them are switched to the ACC position.
HTH
The one labeled "IGN" is on when the key is all the way in the "run" position.
Alas none of them are switched to the ACC position.
HTH