kit should be arriving tomorrow......

where should i take for a "perfect" install.

i was hoping DECH motorsport were still around somewhere - they WILL NOT/DO NOT skimp on installations - plus, i know they can do it 100% right.

i just want a good reputable place that can do it and i'm willing to pay accordingly.

S2KRob offered as well - rob, you still think yo can do it?

 

Maxwell Auto
Sean Devine
905-670-9314

He built my Z, and does all performance mech work on all my cars.

He's got an 11-sec 1.6L Civic (Note! 1.6L!!!) himself - he knows Honda.

Which kit did you get? Will it mess with the current rim offset? How much all said and done?

Peace.

 

It's really not hard to install yourself, the key is to make sure you bleed the system properly. However, they are brakes, so if you feel more comfortable doing it professionally, I hear you.

I'd take it to the above shop, they should be able to do the install in about an hour if they are any good.

Make sure they correctly safety wire the rotor bolts.

I'll probably be getting this setup at some point, but the stock brakes are so good, it's hard to justify them without spending more time on the track.

Price is amazing for what you get, though.

 

rob, i asked sherwin to pre-assemble everything....

2-piece rotors will be put together in advance, rotors will be safety-wired in advance, and i think there was one more thing, but i forget.....

i agree, the main thing is to bleed and get GOOD pressure back in the brakes, which is not always an easy thing, but a good shop should be able to get you a good "hard" pedal.

my main stipulation with sherwin was that i didn't care if the brakes were "as good" as stock in performance, but i would not accept diminished performance offset simply by looks - hopefully these will have both....we'll see.

i can't wait

 

called sean - he said $140 for install and bleeding.

sound good?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 1badride
[B]Which kit did you get?

 

Install price sounds reasonable, considering a brake flush is about $85.

Really, the hardest part other than the bleed, is getting the old stuff off the car if it has seized.

2 screws for the rotors, 2 bolts for the calipers, attach the brake lines, and you are good to go.

I think you'll get better performance than stock from them, not a lot, but a little shorter stopping distance and definitely better fade resistance.

For the price, you just can't go wrong.

1badride,

They fit under the stock wheels without any spacers.

 

Very nice!

Well, I guess I know what my next upgrade is gonna be!

I'm still on first set of pads, original rotors.

My car is in for the day getting the clutch re-done.

Peace.

$140 is a very good deal.

 

me too - 53K - but now they're toast....

 

The S2000's stock brakes are actually very impressive. During extended lapping sessions (i.e. 9/10's effort) for over 45 minutes on Mosport, or even 45 minutes on Cayuga, the brakes exhibit ZERO brake fade. Though I can't concentrate for that long, I know other S2000 owners who would get on the track with a full tank and not come off until they needed gas. No brake fade. All other cars would overheat or the brakes would be roasting, not the S2K.

I've heard the Wilwoods give eye popping/bulding stopping power, but I suspect there are many variants you can buy. Hopefully these are streetable, they do look nice, but form vs function comes into play a bit, crossdrilled and slotted rotors are ridiculous for the street (there isn't enough heat generated to justify them) and many would argue that slotted and drilled are no good for the track either (as their isn't enough data to suggest they dissipate heat better than a brake cooling system). Most of the guys I know racing (class winners) do not run slotted, they will tell you they really don't do anything, other than eat up your pads)

If you put solid vented rotors on with a street pad you will notice significant differences, however if you have a track pad on with crossdrilled/slotted, I would be with Rob in guessing that you'll notice only marginal improvements. But they still look pretty sweet.

If you want a "hard" pedal feel you should consider stainless lines, but once again, the streetability of this mod is questionable. If your brake system is bled properly, it doesnt' matter who does it, but the pedal will feel the same (unless they adjust the free play in the pedal or something).

Since you only have 2, the actual labor with the right tools shouldn't take much more than an hour, though draining and refilling the system would take the most time. I would wager 2-3 hour quotes.

I'm anxious to hear how these turn out.