AXLE nut socket?
i need to do this:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...pic=366523&hl=
[QUOTE]Unstake the nut (use a small special shaped punch to raise up the bent-over part of the nut)
Take the nut off, and put a light coat of grease on the face of the nut where it contacts the hub. NOT the threads. If the nut comes off rough all the way to the end, use some WD40 to lube the threads. the reason for this is WD40 IS NOT a good lubricant, but it will cut the corrosion. we don't want grease, or a good lube, on the threads or the nut will get serverly overtorqued. You think LOOSE is a problem
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...pic=366523&hl=
Stages of axle nut TSB issues:
1-nut not tight enough from factory. Eventually you'll get a single pop/click noise when starting off in first or reverse
2-nut still loose....hub will start to shift in the inner bearing races, causing a rotational noise at low speed, sounds like dragging brakes/warped rotor
3-nut still loose....the shifting hub will wear itself out where it contacts the hub, as the race surface is 3X as hard
4-nut still loose....along with a ruined hub, the two inner bearing races will move out of alignment with each other, destroying the wheel bearing
1-nut not tight enough from factory. Eventually you'll get a single pop/click noise when starting off in first or reverse
2-nut still loose....hub will start to shift in the inner bearing races, causing a rotational noise at low speed, sounds like dragging brakes/warped rotor
3-nut still loose....the shifting hub will wear itself out where it contacts the hub, as the race surface is 3X as hard
4-nut still loose....along with a ruined hub, the two inner bearing races will move out of alignment with each other, destroying the wheel bearing
[QUOTE]Unstake the nut (use a small special shaped punch to raise up the bent-over part of the nut)
Take the nut off, and put a light coat of grease on the face of the nut where it contacts the hub. NOT the threads. If the nut comes off rough all the way to the end, use some WD40 to lube the threads. the reason for this is WD40 IS NOT a good lubricant, but it will cut the corrosion. we don't want grease, or a good lube, on the threads or the nut will get serverly overtorqued. You think LOOSE is a problem
Borrow one from autozone, they loan tools out for free as long as you leave a deposit which they return when you bring the tool back. It's huge, something like 40-50mm. Probably need a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench also.
Originally Posted by mic_crispy,Mar 8 2006, 09:08 PM
ah ! well you cant beat free.... thanks!
yeah i took off my center cap and saw the size of the nut... looked at my tool cest, and called it a day lol.
yeah i took off my center cap and saw the size of the nut... looked at my tool cest, and called it a day lol.
You'll need a big breaker bar and probably an extension pipe if you actually want to get that sucker off. I can't think of any torque wrenches that go up to high enough, I believe the axle nut is 200+ ft pounds which pretty much means a breaker bar+extension pipe and crank it on there hard.
I believe hondas uses a 36mm. Honestly for the axle nut I always used a impact wrench and tighten it down as hard as I can. You cant strip this nut nor can you strip the threads on the axle.. trust me ive seen it all and this is one of the things on the car where you can just go at it.
Originally Posted by SpeedxRacer,Mar 8 2006, 10:16 PM
You cant strip this nut nor can you strip the threads on the axle.. trust me ive seen it all and this is one of the things on the car where you can just go at it.
This thread might help... has the size of the spindle nut:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=223599
There might be some more useful stuff in the UTH FAQs.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=223599
There might be some more useful stuff in the UTH FAQs.
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Originally Posted by CosmosMpower,Mar 8 2006, 09:19 PM
No problem, look in a manual or search on the boards and see exactly what size it is. I've taken the axle nut off my SE-R so it should be a pretty universal large size. Either that or autozone's computer can probably look up the correct size.
You'll need a big breaker bar and probably an extension pipe if you actually want to get that sucker off. I can't think of any torque wrenches that go up to high enough, I believe the axle nut is 200+ ft pounds which pretty much means a breaker bar+extension pipe and crank it on there hard.
You'll need a big breaker bar and probably an extension pipe if you actually want to get that sucker off. I can't think of any torque wrenches that go up to high enough, I believe the axle nut is 200+ ft pounds which pretty much means a breaker bar+extension pipe and crank it on there hard.
I plan to get one soon.
(BTW - this is fine for removal - but NOT for reinstallation. A torque wrench is the only way to go for that)



