PDR
Hey the girl i work with needs to have a pretty big door ding popped out, she lives over in irving and we work in the southlake area. Does anyone know a good place around her?
Also i need to have a small ding pulled out from my rear quarter panel, but i live over by beach and western center so if anyone knows someone in the fort worth area also that would be awesome.
Thanks guys.
Also i need to have a small ding pulled out from my rear quarter panel, but i live over by beach and western center so if anyone knows someone in the fort worth area also that would be awesome.
Thanks guys.
You might give dry ice a try, it only costs a couple of dollars for a pound of ice. Be sure to wear heavy gloves to protect your hands. If the block of dry ice is square in shape, chip off a triangular piece several inches in size and place the point of the ice into the dent itself. The process will take several minutes to pull the dent, it is best to do this on a warm day. I have listed a link to this process below. It works well and will not harm your paint assuming your paint is not separating from the metal.
http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/ho...-dry-ice-78875/
http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/ho...-dry-ice-78875/
Wow, i've never heard of this. Have you ever tried it? It makes sense that it would work... but i'd assume that it would be hard on the paint being cold and then moving like that. I figured that a shop would heat the area before pulling it so the paint would be less likely to get messed up.
I saw a video on there of heating with a hair dryer and then shooting some liquid carbon dioxide on to freeze it.... that really seems like a good idea but i don't know if it would hurt the paint or not.
Originally Posted by txchopper5,Mar 5 2009, 09:43 AM
Wow, i've never heard of this. Have you ever tried it? It makes sense that it would work... but i'd assume that it would be hard on the paint being cold and then moving like that. I figured that a shop would heat the area before pulling it so the paint would be less likely to get messed up.
If you feel uncomfortable using dry ice, they even sell a do it yourself PDR kit. It costs about thirty-eight dollars and will do several cars with several dents/dings. I would try the dry ice method first, it works and costs just pennies, and the best part you did it yourself!
Where to buy dry ice.
http://www.dryicedirectory.com/
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Originally Posted by Vanishing Point,Mar 5 2009, 10:38 AM
I have, and it works well on the thickness ( or lack thereof) of current manufactured cars. The early model cars (60's on down) being heavier (thicker) steel is less prone to small dents and is harder to fix using this process.
If you feel uncomfortable using dry ice, they even sell a do it yourself PDR kit. It costs about thirty-eight dollars and will do several cars with several dents/dings. I would try the dry ice method first, it works and costs just pennies, and the best part you did it yourself!
Where to buy dry ice.
http://www.dryicedirectory.com/
If you feel uncomfortable using dry ice, they even sell a do it yourself PDR kit. It costs about thirty-eight dollars and will do several cars with several dents/dings. I would try the dry ice method first, it works and costs just pennies, and the best part you did it yourself!
Where to buy dry ice.
http://www.dryicedirectory.com/
But if you have tried it i'll give it whirl, i think i'm going to try the canned air/blow dryer method though. If not dry ice is easy to find, i used to make dry ice bombs in high school all the time.
ive actually tried that on my moms car before because i had a shitload of dry ice at my old job it didnt seem to work but it wasnt on a warm they. in theory it sounds like it would work. since molecules expand when hot and contract when cold. maybe ill try to use a blow dryer to see if itll work.
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