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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 07:49 PM
  #1  
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From: Tyler, TX
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Being a generally lazy guy, the last time I had my Tien RS coilovers installed, I just paid a guy $100, and behold they were on the S in the morning.

This time I am trying to do it myself. HOW HARD CAN IT BE! [The Answer: Pretty Damn hard!] I didn't have the special ball joint separator, and since I live in the sticks, I can't get one off the shelf. NAPA online has one and its on the way. Therefore the fronts are in pieces.

And the left rear is fighting me too. Can't get to the top bolts that are under the gas lines with the tools I have. [Solution: New tools! but the first procurement round yielded no love.]

The result is an S on blocks with 1 coilover installed; the beloved right-rear. Always my favorite wheel.

Regards,

Al
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 07:52 PM
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It took me like an hr with hand tools lol
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 08:10 PM
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why do u need a ball joint remover for installing coilovers?
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by PsykotiK,Dec 9 2009, 09:10 PM
why do u need a ball joint remover for installing coilovers?
exactly. i installed mine with a hammer. shit worked for 45k miles. lol
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 09:44 PM
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Remove the upper A-Arm from the chassis and it'll give you the extra clearance you need.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 08:25 AM
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You don't need a ball joint seperator to install coilovers

You just need a jack, a helping hand, and some basic hand tools. Should take you about 15 minutes per coilover to switch them out.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 09:54 AM
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Dam, I installed coilovers on my M3 by myself one night in the driveway with simple hand tools in a coupe hours, can't be that hard on an S.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 12:53 PM
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ya.. i can do the entire install myself in an hr
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by PilotSi,Dec 9 2009, 10:44 PM
Remove the upper A-Arm from the chassis and it'll give you the extra clearance you need.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 06:05 PM
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The upper A arm bolts come out pretty easy and will make it easier like the others have said. Trick is to pre-load the suspension before re-tightening those bolts. Also make sure to remove the brake line bracket and support the caliper or you'll risk damaging the brake line and speed sensor cable. The rear driver side is much easier if you remove the fuel cap, seal the filler neck with a rag or plastic, remove the nuts holding the filler in place, remove the filler pipe support bracket inside the trunk and simply move the bellows out of the way. Disconnecting one side of the rear sway can help you take some of the work out of the rear if you have to get a little more give to line up the shock bracket over the lower arm.
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