Nottm_S2

My SC car has thrown a fault (that's a surprise right?)

ABS light stays on
I have no functioning odb2
I replaced the rear drivers side sensor as i couldnt get a voltage out of that spinning the wheel whereas all the others did give a reading
it now gives the same reading as the other rear sensor (i cant spin the fronts as fast by hand as i'm driving the rears off power)
All sensors give a reading
The light wont feck off

Can Honda even diagnose this?

noodels

Can you not plug the oem ecu in and use the obd & paper clip the plug method ? you don't need to start car so would not be a problem there either?
they all closed circuit giving ohms ?

markforrester99

Are you sure the ABS unit is actually part of the ECU OBD2 connectivity? I know on some of the older hondas the ABS had its own ecu and you had to use a paperclip method. There is a whole section in the workshop manual troubleshooting issues to do with the ABS. Might be worth getting a copy and going through it. Otherwise like Noodels has said you might have to plug OEM ecu in to clear the code and then refit the AEM.

Nottm_S2

Not sure tbh chaps

The manual says the ABS unit stores codes (called DTC - Diagnostic Trouble Codes) and one of those is for just the drive wheels spinning - like you have when you swap the diff (which i just did)
these are stored in the ECM it says
it then refers to a Honda PGM tester for diagnostics and clearing codes, that is a rather pricey ODB2 device:
Honda Automotive Diagnostic PGM Tester w Data Link Cable & Program Card | eBay
and as Noodels points out, you clear codes via odb

i'm a bit stumped. I guess the modulator/control unit is dead but want to prove it, i'm concerned the codes are just from the diff work and havent cleared as i ran the car with the rear wheels in the air at speed to id the issue and again to ensure it was resolved. I have a stock ecu on my other car but i dont really fiddle with that much (ever)

i guess next step would be to swap ecu but there is also reference to immobiliser in the ecu and i am worried i'll immobilise both cars

flanders

Have you driven the car on all four wheels after all the work you mentioned?
Should only take a few hundred meters.

I'm not sure but I think it could be possible to check the code without the stock ECU as the fault is stored in the ABS unit.

Daytona-Dave

A local garage with a Launch or Snap-on scanner should be able to plug on and erase the code

Nottm_S2

i'm worried that wont work Ray as my ODB port is dead cos of the AEM
can they plug direct into the ABS unit?
the light stays on after the initial check

yeah it's done 5 miles or so twice Flanders, no joy and it does lock up obviously.

Daytona-Dave

Shouldn't kill the ABS or Air bag diagnostics if it has it will only be the 12v feed

Nottm_S2

Ray, i wish your were down the road mate

i've just been out and it has power so fingers crossed i can get her diagnosed!

noodels

Have you tried removing the ABS fuse for a few seconds ?