I have read all the posts, I mean ALL! Plus allignment bibles, and made a table of all the allignment specs I could gather and am more than confused, I need help I know, its too subjective and one persons opinion is totally different to anothers, perhaps my quest will just create more confusion! Anyway here goes!

AP1 2000 lowered 30mm F&R with BC Racing coilovers pillowball top mounts, 30 way adjustable dampers. 10kg spring rates F&R. 17/215/44 front and 17/245/40 rear goodyear FI assymetricals for daily (very) spirited driving and 16/205/55 front and 16/225/50 rear with Toyo 888s for future track days. 3 braces fitted. Sway bars original

On the road I drive fast, always, and the roads are very good but twisty mountain roads very little motorway driving, track days are new to me but hope to do several a year. It is always dry here, (Algarve Portugal) so no slipery roads.

After fitting new coilovers, discs, hoses pads etc I need to do an alignment, I realise this will be a work in progress but want to start off with the best possible figures to suit my type of driving, its pretty much spirited to agressive all the time.

My idea is this:
Front camber -1.3
Toe out .03
Castor 6.45 or maximum possible equall both sides

Rear camber -2.3
Toe in .15

Any comments and advice will be greatly appreciated, as my idea above is guess work!

PS I did a DIY static and corner weighting excercise with my wt in it. Static 51L/49R 50/50FR Corner 50.1%

 

I have a similar suspension and tyre set up with the following geo:



My front camber is 1/3 of what you are looking at, you will get bad inner edge tyre wear at the camber setting I do on mine!
Don't max the caster out as it will feel heavy on the steering and harder to turn in.
You will be pushed to get -2.3 rear camber with out adjustable rear control arms

 

Sounds terrible!

Way too much caster ruins the steering feel and probably won't work with such aggressive (too aggressive!) camber. You'll get initial understeer.

I like the low rear toe though!

Why don't you start more sensible and work outwards; caster around 6 deg and stock camber (perhaps 1/4 degree more at both ends) and see how you get on from there? I'd set the front toe parallel, for good turn-in to begin with.

EDIT; Mikey posted in between; what he say doesn't sound terrible!

 

Though you make as much good senses

 

Thanks Mikey K, Nick for your imput, anyone else please put in your tupence worth. I did not think my idea was too agressive when you see what Honda have respecified, see below, you are right though about the castor should have it lower perhaps 6.0 or even lower still!

I got this from MY00 Honda Manual and from Honda buletin off this tech info UK forum:

Original Honda MY00 Honda Respec My 00-03
Front Camber -0.3 -1.0
Front Castor 6.0 6.45
Front Toe 0 0

Rear Camber -1.3 -2.0
Rear Toe .25(6mm) .20(5mm)

So they obviously thought more camber was better, and more castor for that matter, any ideas on why? This is for stock suspension though, so lowered will need different values but based on which one, this is driving me nuts

My idea of a bit of front toe out was to improve turn in but if I do that do I increase or decrease rear toe to balance that idea?

Then I understood driving a car on straight roads with agressive camber (but what is agressive if the respec is -1.0) would create more tire wear on the insides, but in twisty conditions it would come into its own (better handlig) and create less wear?

Any thoughts?

 

I have very agressive camber on mine. Way more than the published CG fast road settings. (edit - for the front wheels )

( Chris has improved settings since then - with a new name ).

It is as you described on the twisties - brilliant.
And tyre wear will be shocking - but then I didn't buy the car to get 50K out of a set of rubber.

 

Those setting you posted are actually the range
ie 6.00 - 6.45 castor

As I say will not get high rear camber with it lowered as the control arm is fixed length and prevent it with throwing the toe way out!

I use mine on twisties mainly
My rears have worn relatively evenly considering the camber (within 1mm arcross the tyre)
The fronts are shockingly bad with a 1" bald band on the inner edge and 4-5mm across the rest
I'm going to rotate my fronts on the next set!

 

Exactly what I run on, no need to change it.
You need to get the rubber warm to take advantage of the rear camber which can be tricky in the UK!

However on 888 it should work well for you

 

Are you sure?
Are they not handed and have an 'Outer' side Mike?

 

Yes, when turning the steering you effectively ADD to camber due to kingpin angles etc.
More Castor will exaggerate the camber when turning the wheels, aiding cornering.

I feel more front is useful on track, and a lot of race guys seem to use 2.5 F&R camber and no stagger.

HTH