Anti Roll Bars
So my Nitrons are here, I'm moving house in a couple of weeks so I will have a nice big double garage to work on the S in.
Got me round to thinking about stuff to do over the dark winter months.
Is it worth changing the Anti Roll bars if I'm installing coilovers.
I notice the other two Nitron owners have Tannabe and Cusco anti rollbars.
What do I need to consider when chosing and who are the best value for money (manufacturer and supplier
)
Got me round to thinking about stuff to do over the dark winter months.
Is it worth changing the Anti Roll bars if I'm installing coilovers.
I notice the other two Nitron owners have Tannabe and Cusco anti rollbars.
What do I need to consider when chosing and who are the best value for money (manufacturer and supplier
)
Are you intending to change the spring rates at all?
If so I'd definitely match the anti-roll bars to the springs you're using.
Also, if you're changing damper settings (I'm assuming the nitrons are adjustable) you might want to change the rate of the roll bar, so an adjustable one would be beneficial.
I'm sure Craig and Steven will be along soon, they have far more knowledge of S2000 suspension than me, I'm more used to track cars I'm afraid.
If so I'd definitely match the anti-roll bars to the springs you're using.
Also, if you're changing damper settings (I'm assuming the nitrons are adjustable) you might want to change the rate of the roll bar, so an adjustable one would be beneficial.
I'm sure Craig and Steven will be along soon, they have far more knowledge of S2000 suspension than me, I'm more used to track cars I'm afraid.
Mikey, a great book to buy for helping you set up car suspension is 'How to make your car handle' by Fred Puhn, you can get it from Amazon.
If you want to get into more depth, 'Competition Car Suspension' by Alan Staniforth is the bible, but it's very detailed and technical.
Alternatively, go WH Smiths and get this month's Practical Performance Car magazine and it has a great guide to damping, with some simple to follow steps for setting up the damping of a road car. You'll find that as long as you know why your're changing things, what to change becomes easier...
If you want to get into more depth, 'Competition Car Suspension' by Alan Staniforth is the bible, but it's very detailed and technical.
Alternatively, go WH Smiths and get this month's Practical Performance Car magazine and it has a great guide to damping, with some simple to follow steps for setting up the damping of a road car. You'll find that as long as you know why your're changing things, what to change becomes easier...
I bought one of those books on Mark and Brian's suggestion - there's a link in my sig (as you'd expect
).
Competch do an adjustable front ARB but I simply went for front and rear Tanabe ARBs as they are both approx 70% stiffer, keeping the balance about the same. You can go for a Cusco (like Steven) but my initial research seems to suggest that one of the Cusco ARBs is stiffer than the other, which would upset balance
Whilst the Nitrons maintained ride despite the big drop, the Tanabe ARBs really do stiffen the car up
. Great for chucking around and dratically reduced body roll but just be aware that you'll notice the potholes a little more unless you soften the rebound on the Nitrons to try to compensate.
).Competch do an adjustable front ARB but I simply went for front and rear Tanabe ARBs as they are both approx 70% stiffer, keeping the balance about the same. You can go for a Cusco (like Steven) but my initial research seems to suggest that one of the Cusco ARBs is stiffer than the other, which would upset balance

Whilst the Nitrons maintained ride despite the big drop, the Tanabe ARBs really do stiffen the car up
. Great for chucking around and dratically reduced body roll but just be aware that you'll notice the potholes a little more unless you soften the rebound on the Nitrons to try to compensate.
Me thinks (again
) the plan is to get the Nitrons on and see how I go too many changes at once is going to make diagnosing and sorting problems a lot harder 
Sounds like the Tanabe ones are the way to go if I do go that way.
I guess I'd need to redo the geo after fitting them.
) the plan is to get the Nitrons on and see how I go too many changes at once is going to make diagnosing and sorting problems a lot harder 
Sounds like the Tanabe ones are the way to go if I do go that way.
I guess I'd need to redo the geo after fitting them.
with PL.The use of different rates affects the fornt and rear breakaway rates, as it affects the roll angles. Honda
Less roll = more grip basically, but a bump one one side affects the other wheel too (since they're connected!) so you get an unpleasant characteristic called AR bar waddle if they're too stiff. This combined with the RWS is why the early S2000s were 'lively' on a bumpy road.
I should fcuk around with your Zebedees alone until you are almost perfectly happy with the way the car drives.
Then change your AR bars & fcuk it all up again! Months of fun getting it all back again.
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Originally Posted by MarkB,Nov 1 2005, 12:52 PM
You'll find that as long as you know why you're changing things, what to change becomes easier...
Best I decide why I'm changing it then

I'm off to amazon for that book!
Originally Posted by Nick Graves,Nov 1 2005, 01:44 PM
I should fcuk around with your Zebedees alone until you are almost perfectly happy with the way the car drives.
Then change your AR bars & fcuk it all up again! Months of fun getting it all back again.
Then change your AR bars & fcuk it all up again! Months of fun getting it all back again.



