He's just sent me a message saying "sorry, took it to a local engine shop this afternoon, did a compression test and no reading on cylinder 3 and theirs so much end float on the crank u can hold the front pulley and move the whole flywheel back and forth"

Apprantly the engine shop he took it to said that there's 'so much endfloat, the block will be shot from the vibrations as its aluminium'

Only problem is, i didn't take the engine number down so it looks like i need to buy him a short block.

Anyone got one for sale?

Thanks

Rob

 

Check if you had a pic and check previous owner, don't fall into something which could be prevented, ask for a video

 

Not sure how no compression signifies a bent crank, on a bench you would do a leakdown test.

End float would also be thrust washer issues what affects the EVO4 with 'crank-walk'). A bent crank wouldnt explain enfloat on its own

Tell him to send it back and call his bluff

 

I've got to say Mr S2ThouDriver, you seem like a really nice and conscientious chap. I'd hate to think you were being taken advantage of.

 

I'd be asking for a video of them doing the compression check to prove it. Guessing they must strap a starter motor to the engine on a bench and and hook it up to a battery. You have to have the engine in semi-running (i.e. able to be turned over on a starter motor) to do the compression check. Even then it's easy enough to forge a no good condition from an ok engine

As Si2k says end float on the crank means thust washer problems (the bearings that stop the crank moving along it's length in the block if you're not familiar). If they're shot it'll cause problems with clutch operation and maybe gear changes. How the hell it'd cause vibration issues and why those would cause any block (iron or aluminium) to become no good is beyond me.

This smells so much of as others have said sounds like they're trying to scam you

 

Just ask for it back and refund him the money.
Sounds like a scam to me.

 

What were the conlditions of sale? Did you offer any kind of warranty on the engine, or was it sold as seen?

Do you still have the contact details for the engines previous owner? If so, ask if he has the engine number. If you're going to offer a refund (the best course of action as you can salvage some money from the ancilleries if the engine does turn out to be shot), you want to make sure you're not going to be scammed as mentioned above.

 

Thanks for all the support folks, much appreciated.

I contacted the last owner of the engine and he said he bought it already out of a car and was sold it as fully working, paying a lot of money.

The guy who bought it off me seems pretty genuine and did travel 4 hours to pick it up so it would be a lot of effort for him to swap it for a duff engine.

Having spoken to him last night, i offered to pay for a replacement crank but he is adamant that due to the no compression and movement on the crank, the block is mullered (which i think is excessive talk based on what i have learnt on here)

So, i think probably the best thing for me to do is get it back, refund him, cut my losses then advertise it on ebay as spares or repair. I don't really have the time or knowhow to stip it down and sell it in bits, so ill just take the hit on it and let someone else profit from it.

It could be a good buy for someone who wants to do a strokered/forged build as they would have the engine casing, all ancillaries etc cheap due to binning the internals anyway.

Do you think he could have damaged it when getting a compression test? He said the engine shop did the test on the starter motor (i'm not too clued up on these things).

My loss, someone elses gain. Hey-ho, these things happen i suppose

 

Well I would hope it had oil in if they did spin it over.

Tell him to bring it back and you will refund him - if it really is broken then he will have no problem driving 4 hours to get his money back.


Could you give a bit more info on engine? Milage etc?

 

unless it was sold as seen, in which case its his problem and his alone