On Monday I'm having a new Berk HPC header fitted to the car, the plan is to do a full write up and have a Dyno done before and after.

I want to make the comparison as fair as poss and from what I've read about on here the ECU needs a chance to relearn when some upgrades are fitted in order to get the most out of them?

I'm wondering if I should do any ECU reset before the first test and before the subsequent test? what would be the optimum procedure to follow to ensure that the before and after tests are the most accurate?

 

Well the car needs to be upto optimum temparature.

The ambient temperature/humidity can play a part, try and get both runs about the same but they probably will be if doing it on the same day.

I believe they use SAE correction.

You could have your car as it is before manifold and reset it, then drive around for about an hour with plenty of vtecing, then dyno.

Then reset the ECU replace manifold and drive around again for an hour then dyno.

The problem is heat soak could effect reading, and TBH I'm unsure of the full learning period (STFT etc)

What gear will you do the run in? probably 5th?

 

Inlet temps will you biggest potential for variation so try and keep that consistent

 

I'm hoping that most things can all be kept the same within reason.

I might get up early reset the ECU, idle for a while then I'll have a good drive from mine to the Garage.

Then I'll try to reset and drive prior to the second dyno.

On the Berk Tech thread they did mention the the car needed several pulls before the ECU learned. I've no idea how these things work, I expect the tuner will know more anyway.

Heat soak is going to be interesting, I've got the Mugen intake fitted which picks up cold air from infront of the rad but boy does that carbon fibre get hot. I assume that the high rate of flow of the air once the run starts will mean it's not in the intake long enough to get heated. That's what I see from how quickly my IAT reading drops once I'm moving.

AJ Can you post your avatar picture in full size?

 

What type of Dyno is it?

Generally, and NA mods on the S make such small differences that they are all within the realms of dyno innaccuracy.

You will need to esnure about 5 or 6 runs before and after (the results will vary each run) then take an average.

Ensure they get the tyre pressures right and tie the car down properly.

If you want a true before and after I would just ensure the conditons are the same.

One of the key things is not to let the car sit on the dyno too long as the heat soak will pull timing.

Make sure whatever fan they have is right up to the nose of the car.

If you are going to use the ECU reset method, do it before you have the pipe fitted, run it for about 5 miles thrashing the arse off it, then do the same procedure after.

If you are not going to use the ECU reset method I would do the same anyway.

Dynoing it straight after putting the manifold on will likely give you a better power figure as the car may well run leaner, and the ECU does take a while to adjust it's fuel trim to optimum.

Dyno type and setup is also critical.

But I still think it's a small amount to notice.

HTH

 

Remember its a different kettle of fish on the road.

When you getting a dyno done? what/where is the dyno?

Marks right about the fueling, leaner is better performance wise well a certain ratio 12.7-13.X but hotter.

Dont worry about how things work, im learning too

Sorry this isnt the best picture, but we have the hood up, fan right in front of the bumper, several extraction hoses and an big open space at the back and a wideband O2.

I'll be straight up with you (damn those american terms ), you'll fit performance bits and peices and the fueling will need to be mapped to get the best benefit/performance out of the car it will be a bit wobbly (running to lean and too rich at some points), the exhaust mods etc alter the air coming in/going out the AFR will need adjusted. A mapper will add fuel etc or alter timing if you have a good ECU.

Dont worry about me mentioning running lean/rich i doubt there will be problems, if the mapper/dyno people are worth there salt they'll know if its running okay/safe.

What i am saying is at the end of the day you'll need an ECU to get the best benefits, you will/hopefully should see gains at some points without an A.M ECU. When tuning its the fueling/igniton timing that yeild power, and your mods efficency etc.

 

Oh and its happened to the best of us

 

I'll be really interested to hear results - its a copy of the mugen isn't it?