Brakes back from EBC
Originally Posted by Hypersonik,Nov 5 2008, 08:15 PM
It won't.
I had some refurbed calipers all zinced up, and I had some other calipers I painted with some high temp paint.
The zinc started to go, the paint didn't.
I still have some left and i'll get you the name of it - it's a Bright sliver that will give you a zinc like finish
I had some refurbed calipers all zinced up, and I had some other calipers I painted with some high temp paint.
The zinc started to go, the paint didn't.
I still have some left and i'll get you the name of it - it's a Bright sliver that will give you a zinc like finish

Painting over zinc normally needs some fancy primers or the paint reacts with the zinc and bubbles up of flakes off over time.
Originally Posted by lower,Nov 6 2008, 08:59 AM
Did you paint over the zinc plating or paint unplated calipers?
Painting over zinc normally needs some fancy primers or the paint reacts with the zinc and bubbles up of flakes off over time.
Painting over zinc normally needs some fancy primers or the paint reacts with the zinc and bubbles up of flakes off over time.
They were fine but two things to note:
1) the zinc had weathered
2) I didn't keep the car long enough to tell whether the paint bubbled on the rear caliper - (had it for about 2 months after painting)
I'll go and have a look at the paint can now see what it says
Well, had a look at the paint....
It is called:
PLASTI-KOTE
industrial
HOT PAINT
No mention of ZINC though
DOes say it needs to be baked/cured though.
Sorry - I couldn't be more inconclusive if I tried
It is called:
PLASTI-KOTE
industrial
HOT PAINT
No mention of ZINC though

DOes say it needs to be baked/cured though.
Sorry - I couldn't be more inconclusive if I tried
Zinc weathering is actually worse than painting over the fresh zinc.
Once the zinc has started to turn white, that process only continues under the paint.
It tends to be a 50:50 thing whether the paint sticks or not long and will often be related whether the zinc was properly passivated after plating.
The only way to be properly sure is to use a mordant wash which will turn the zinc black before painting.
Once the zinc has started to turn white, that process only continues under the paint.
It tends to be a 50:50 thing whether the paint sticks or not long and will often be related whether the zinc was properly passivated after plating.
The only way to be properly sure is to use a mordant wash which will turn the zinc black before painting.
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AHill
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