Buying first S2000
 

Hi,

New to the forum and looking to finally buy a S2K after wanting one since I was 17!

Looking to buy a ap2 model ideally stock, any advice on what to look for when buying? Obviously rust is a big thing, but for what are generally reliable cars is there any specific niggles or problems I should look for?

Welcome

I suggest having a good look through the FAQ's

Rust is not a major problem and you'll be looking for an AP1 as AP2 is the yank version.

Good luck, take your time or buy on impulse you'll not be disappointed.

Cheers, I'm currently recovering from an operation so I'm in no rush.

​​​​​​And I'll look through the FAQ's

Would be a good idea to check the VIN on all the different parts to make sure they're matching, I believe there is 10, but I could be wrong. Getting a service history if possible would be great. Depending on the mileage you're looking at I've seen a lot of people recommend getting a compression test done on higher mileage cars. Here is a link to a really detailed post.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ta...-s2000-775801/

Firstly welcome and good luck with your search. Next you won't be getting an AP2 that refers to the 2.2L engine that's in the model that was only available in the USA, what you are looking for is a facelift model. See here-

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_S2000

EYOS2000 is an American we don't have the VIN number plastered all over our cars, so ignore that. Rear wheel arches are the main place you might find rust. And again spend some time cruising the FAQ's.

As Rich said, UK cars do not have the VIN on all parts, so this advice doesn't apply here.

Rust can be big problem, and occurs mostly around the rear of the car: Arches (as Rich said), boot floor, fuel tank, and also check the sills. You may also find corrosion on the aluminium bonnet, usually at the leading edge.

Yeah I thought that was an American thing, and cheers for the help much appreciated.

Around 80k millage face lift model with good service history seems to go for 9/10k from what I'm seeing. Does that sound about right? The UK market I'm referring to

Not sure of your age Duran, but I'd recommend getting some insurance quotes before committing to buy. Has been known to catch out some of our younger drivers.

Good luck with the purchase you wont regret it .

All the standard used S2000 advice but they're not all alike. Honda tweaked them every years with 2002, 2004, and 2006 being the major milestones.

I'd look for a 2006 or later car. I bought a low mileage example after a fairly long search. These are DBW and can be FlashPro tuned for significantly higher mid range power without the need to alter the OEM wiring or ECU and cause emissions problems. There are versions of the FlashPro device for both US and EU cars. Verify the ECU serial number if interested in this. Dropping the VTEC engagement to 3600rpm (from 6000) transformed my 2006 car. A FlashPro tune retains the OBD2 port and the tune can be flashed back to OEM in 5 minutes if needed for a MOT check.

2004 and later cars (face-lifted plus the AP2 engine in the US) have improved wheels, suspensions, etc over the earlier cars. The 2006 and later cars with DBW have traction and stability control that can be turned off with the press of a button on the dashboard if you want to play boy racer. :)

Make a priority list and enjoy the hunting.

-- Chuck

Welcome the forum, first off when you find one, get yourself a zunsport grill haha. See my post in this forum.

When i bought my 2005 GT model i just followed the standard buyers guides on here and youtube etc. The only additional things i double checked were the timing chain tensioner, if the engine is making a sound like a bike chain being dragged across a cross bar, it will need the TCT replacing, high milers have this issue, its simple to do, and you can buy shiney new ones that can be fitted in minutes so don't be scared, use it to bid them down. I test drove a few were the brakes where not OEM or better, had been cheaply replaced so when i gave them a good press got some real judder. Other than that, serpentine belt and last time it had a valve adjustment.

I'm 23, I didn't think I could insure one if I'm being honest but turns out I can for £750.

All good advice, will definitely make a list of stuff to check and ask

vehicle stability control is for the Nancy brigade who fear the power of a 2 litre engine could pose a health risk.....to hell with that malarkey, be a boy racer, I'm in my 40's and loving it! ;-) my advice, get a 2004/2005...far cheaper road tax too. Meaning you can buy some Yokohama tyres for your pride & joy, just like me! Ha-ha

The Pistonheads guide is pretty good: https://www.pistonheads.com/features...ng-guide/30573

Having owned and tinkering with an s2000 for almost a year now, here are some of the things you should look for:

The main issue I have experienced with s2000 ownership is water leaks. Haha!
Mechanically they are very strong cars.

As mentioned, check the FAQs page. Tons of info on there

-Check the driver’s side main carpets for dampness and any water ingress
-While you’re there, check the clutch pedal and ensure the clutch master cylinder is not leaking or weeping
-Also check the passenger side main carpets for water ingress
(the air con tube can be dislodged with the water pipe dripping on the carpets)
-Check the main windshield to see if it has been replaced, as a poorly fitted windshield can induce water leaks.

-Soft top leaks are a common thing on s2000’s, it would be quite tricky to check for this when viewing a car unless the seller allows his car to be hosed down for you. Soft top replacement can cost up to £750 to replace.
It is a labour intensive job and not something an average person can perform on their own.

-Open the boot and remove the toolset in the base pan of the boot.
(check to ensure there is no standing water)
(check to ensure no other water ingress is present anywhere in the boot)
-Ensure the convertible roof retracts fully all the way down
-From a cold engine – Switch on the engine and check for rattle upon start up
(worn TCT – timing chain tensioner) – common issue on high mileage cars
-These engines can be quite tapptey when cold but should smoothen out
(Always benefit from a valve adjustment)
-Check for any vibration at motorway speeds
(Can be driveshaft issues if previously lowered or worn prop shaft)
-Check the headlights, all s2000 should have xenon headlights for their dipped beam.
(the ballasts are made by Mitsubishi electric and can be pricey to replace)
-The factory OEM alarm (Hamilton and palmer) i believe, has reliability issues.
(parts are quite rare for them now)
-Tensioner for the aux belt can be seen right at the front of the engine block
(has a stretch indicator so you can easily see if the belt needs replacing)
-All s2000’s suffer from the cold morning grind when the engine is started form sub zero temps
(difficult to test this when viewing a car)
-Don’t forget to check the air con and that it blows cold air

-s2000’s have a tendency for idle issues. This is a common problem and can as simple as cleaning the MAP and idle control valve, to a horrible nightmare where the car will stall when you come to a stop.
-S2000’s are getting on abit now and wasn’t given the best under seal protection from the factory when new.
(I believe this was due to saving weight)
-Common rear arch rust, get right underneath each arch and check.
-Check the underside chassis for rust
(rust are now usually found on the earlier models due to their age)

The car may have been used as a daily during winter, where it would have seen salty roads.
(Any evidence of this, you should walk away)
-Check panel gaps and changes of paint for any evidence of body repair or previous crash damage.
-If s2000’s are driven without respect they will spin out. Many people crash them.
(get right underneath the car and check for any evidence of accident repair)
(check to see if both rear crash beams are intact)

-Rear calipers seize up, this is a common issue (infact quite common all Honda’s)
-The gearboxes on s2000’s can be rather notchy when cold but from cold it should go into all gears including reverse
(Reverse is a push down)
If you find any gears difficult to engage when cold, you should walk away as this could potentially require a gearbox rebuild.
-Give it around 15 mins for the gearbox to warm up, the gear changes should be super buttery smooth and a joy to use.



Other stuff
-Make sure it has 2 keys and 2 fobs
-Regular services obviously – documented.
-Ideal if it has had a geo alignment (but be aware not everyone will actually have this done)
(Rarely do people perform a geo on their daily drivers – lol)
(Always budget to have this type of work done to any s2000)
-Buy a completely standard OEM car from a competent owner and not one which has been modified.


Budget to have all the fluids changed after purchase including a service
Engine oil, Spark plugs, oil filter, air filter and pollen filter.
(diff, coolant, gearbox, clutch, and brake fluid)

Also, perform a valve adjustment.
Have a look at this video, fab buyers guide

Hope it helps.

Wow, thanks for that extremely detailed reply. Definitely had helped me, cheers

Engines are very strong bar some issues with very late cars which proved terminal for them, they are out of your budget by the look of it anyway.
Later gearboxes have some minor tweaks, lots of suspension tweaks over the years too. Some later cars have basic traction control called vsa which is fairly prone to failure but also cheapish to fix.

tbh it's like any used car, look for a careful owner who doesnt thrash cold, avoid crash damaged or poorly repaired cars, the rear does rust as everyone has pointed out.

brakes can need tlc, look at the discs. if the pedal feels a bit wooden the calipers might need refurb but it aint pricey if you are handy enough to fit.

braided lines a good upgrade ime

ensure it's had alignment, lots of rusted bolts out there which need cutting out to replace, can be time consuming or/and expensive.

if the alarm has been replaced ensure it's a reputable fitter, they can be a pain. the alarms fitted to UK cars are not great.

It was my understanding that 04 onwards models had traction control? Or was I mistaken

06 onwards.

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Seized bolts, seized bolts and, did I mention seized bolts? Sod the water damage and leaks, you end up in a hedge!

'06 and later cars are DBW and have traction control and stability assist both of which can be switched off in less than a second. These can be invaluable on the street especially in those infamous UK roundabouts with all the diesel spilled on the road we keep reading about here. Since both work by slight braking of one wheel or another they can be minutely slower on the track or autocross. Switch them off once you learn how to drive the car fast. I'm happy to have the capability. :)

-- Chuck

Cheers Chuck

Chuck is not quite right.

Traction control was an option on the MY06 cars and standard on the MY08 cars.

Interesting. USDM 2006 cars got DBW which included traction control and stability assist. I was unaware it could be an option elsewhere and the only "options" I've seen for these cars are stuff like floor mats, not things that have to be factory fitted. Pretty long pipeline from Japan.

-- Chuck

Fitted as an extra and not standard on all cars, I think it was the my08 when it came fitted to all cars

When I purchased my 2nd S2000 (registered 28/09/2006), I had the choice of with or without VS A as it was an optional extra.

Thanks. Good to know.

-- Chuck

Japan also got AP2s with the 2.2 F22C, not just the Americans (USDM from MY05, JDM from MY06 IIRC)

So if you really wanted a 2.2, you could easily get a JDM RHD AP2 imported

Chris.

When i turned 18 some decades ago i couldn't afford to insure a road car as well as my XR2 Rally car so i had to insure the rally car with everything declared, £1900 a year!!

The came the cossie, impreza etc. I'd sooner pay a fortune, wear the same jeans all week and drive a beast than give up and drive something like a Pug 307 HDi hahah

yeah but if you holed the rad in that pug you wouldnt care :)

sorry, that was a low blow. i totally agree, life is too short for stinkers

Right in the feels :rain:

If I was buying today, my advice for an s2k would be (assuming the obvious like the engine isn't ****ed)

1. Seized geo bolts - £1k+ to sort
2. Rust - arches / sills - ££££+ to sort.

And for a car with no issues like 1 and 2, be prepared to put your hand in your pocket.

As for 1 and 2 ....

If they are seized but straight, 1 is less of an issue and with 2 ... there are plenty of written off cars for getting a nice rear quarter to cut in.

A shagged engine will cost you 3500+ labour and even then you never know the history of the new one.

1 and 2 can be sorted for a couple of grand max - far cheaper than a replacement engine.

So .. has it had a clutch, do the brakes work, does it drive nice and are there any rattles and does the AC work. Cosmetics are just that, broken oily bits are a nightmare.