Detailing My S - is it a plan?
Done a deal with S2Knut for his cyclo orbital polisher
He's also recommended some Dr Color Chip to sort some scratches and chips. (which came in two days!)
Looks like I'm starting down the slippery detailing slope.
Weather is looking crap over the next 5 days whilst I'm off so I'm going to do it then!
I need some guidance on my regime/plan. Here's what I'm thinking!
Any idea or comments welcome!
I'll update this first post with any good ideas.
Engine Bay
Run for 5 mins bonnet open
Spray with Gunk
Leave for 10 mins then work in
Cover vulnerable bits with clingfilm
Pressure wash (PW) at low pressure very carefully
Towel dry where possible
Run for 5 mins bonnet open
Run for 10 mins bonnet closed
Spray with 303 protectant (maybe)
Body Work
(including lights)
PW down at a slight angle to remove large bits without abrading paint
Snow foam wash with Megs Gold Shampoo (or Fairy liquid 1/year)
PW to rinse
Two bucket shampoo wash
PW to rinse
Pat dry
Clay 1/year (1:4 shampoo for lube & redo PW rinse/dry)
Dr color chip scratches & chips 1/year (isopranol to clean them out first)
Machine polish/glaze Clearcote Vanilla Mouse or Poorboys SSR1 (SSR2.5 1/year)
Machine sealant Poorboys EXP (1 hour to cure for each of two coats)
Wax P21S (Collinite once that's gone!
)
Annual Stuff
PW under side and wheel arches
303 for roof
Clean cloth and frame inside roof
Extract and clean seat belts
Meg's NXT Tech wax for wheels (2 coats)
Silicon spray for CV & steering rack boots
Copper grease wishbones, pillow mounts, control arms and back of brake pads
Lithium grease spray to roof mechanism
Silicon grease rubbed in to rubber seals (roof, boot, doors etc)
Poorboy's Natural Look for cleaning plastics
He's also recommended some Dr Color Chip to sort some scratches and chips. (which came in two days!)
Looks like I'm starting down the slippery detailing slope.
Weather is looking crap over the next 5 days whilst I'm off so I'm going to do it then!
I need some guidance on my regime/plan. Here's what I'm thinking!
Any idea or comments welcome!
I'll update this first post with any good ideas.
Engine Bay
Run for 5 mins bonnet open
Spray with Gunk
Leave for 10 mins then work in
Cover vulnerable bits with clingfilm
Pressure wash (PW) at low pressure very carefully

Towel dry where possible
Run for 5 mins bonnet open
Run for 10 mins bonnet closed
Spray with 303 protectant (maybe)
Body Work
(including lights)
PW down at a slight angle to remove large bits without abrading paint
Snow foam wash with Megs Gold Shampoo (or Fairy liquid 1/year)
PW to rinse
Two bucket shampoo wash
PW to rinse
Pat dry
Clay 1/year (1:4 shampoo for lube & redo PW rinse/dry)
Dr color chip scratches & chips 1/year (isopranol to clean them out first)
Machine polish/glaze Clearcote Vanilla Mouse or Poorboys SSR1 (SSR2.5 1/year)
Machine sealant Poorboys EXP (1 hour to cure for each of two coats)
Wax P21S (Collinite once that's gone!
)Annual Stuff
PW under side and wheel arches
303 for roof
Clean cloth and frame inside roof
Extract and clean seat belts
Meg's NXT Tech wax for wheels (2 coats)
Silicon spray for CV & steering rack boots
Copper grease wishbones, pillow mounts, control arms and back of brake pads
Lithium grease spray to roof mechanism
Silicon grease rubbed in to rubber seals (roof, boot, doors etc)
Poorboy's Natural Look for cleaning plastics
Sounds like you have a good plan sorted out, may even nick a few ideas off your plan. Immediately after buying mine (few months ago) I set apart a whole day to wash/clay/polish/glaze/wax etc. Its like a mirror now, in look and feel, when you slide your finger over the bodywork it almost feels 'velvety' (sad... I know...).
I have used the Poorboy's stuff on my MC blue and its worked a treat. Used by hand their SSR 2.5 but I think an OP would have made it more efficient as some swirls remain. Quite impressed with their Glaze and ok with the Nattys blu paste but I think there may be better products out there (longer lasting and easier to apply by hand). The Natural Look takes a bit of getting used to, still haven't figured out how much I can really use on each surface as I don't want the tacky/shiny look.
One additional note would be to make sure you clean (with a sponge or MF cloth) the roof from the inside. Mine was extremely dirty despite the low miles of the car, seems like it picks up dirt when open.
Personally I don't rate PWing the bodywork of the car as I think it must push the grit & dirt towards the paint, thus acting as sand paper. Open to hearing views on this though.
Enjoy the work!
I have used the Poorboy's stuff on my MC blue and its worked a treat. Used by hand their SSR 2.5 but I think an OP would have made it more efficient as some swirls remain. Quite impressed with their Glaze and ok with the Nattys blu paste but I think there may be better products out there (longer lasting and easier to apply by hand). The Natural Look takes a bit of getting used to, still haven't figured out how much I can really use on each surface as I don't want the tacky/shiny look.
One additional note would be to make sure you clean (with a sponge or MF cloth) the roof from the inside. Mine was extremely dirty despite the low miles of the car, seems like it picks up dirt when open.
Personally I don't rate PWing the bodywork of the car as I think it must push the grit & dirt towards the paint, thus acting as sand paper. Open to hearing views on this though.
Enjoy the work!
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Riccardo - thanks for the comments on "Natural Look" and good point on the inside of the roof.
I do already do that but didn't note it!
LSB just reminded me to extract and clean the seat belt as that also gets all the dirt the roof does when that's down!
Plus it makes a mess on her top rubbing the dirt in









