Driver Door replacement
Managed to ding my driver door so bought a replacement (thanks to all the replies to the WTB post)
Replaced the door fairly easy but a couple of problems:
1. I cant figure out how to swap out the lock barrel. Some notes:
I've followed the manual 20-5 (picture is sh1t)
i've searched on the forum. Everyone talks about the c-clip but i can find the blasted thing.
does anyone have any photos of the position of this mysterious c-clip?
2. the door is slightly misaligned along the bottom
door does not look bent in any way so don't think its an issue with the replacement
I've tried to jack to door up and tighten all the bolts, tweaked with the rubber and assocated door metal seating whatsamacallit and adjusted the rubber closers but no joy
Any assistance on the above would be much apprecaited.
Thanks,
Replaced the door fairly easy but a couple of problems:
1. I cant figure out how to swap out the lock barrel. Some notes:
I've followed the manual 20-5 (picture is sh1t)
i've searched on the forum. Everyone talks about the c-clip but i can find the blasted thing.
does anyone have any photos of the position of this mysterious c-clip?
2. the door is slightly misaligned along the bottom
door does not look bent in any way so don't think its an issue with the replacement
I've tried to jack to door up and tighten all the bolts, tweaked with the rubber and assocated door metal seating whatsamacallit and adjusted the rubber closers but no joy
Any assistance on the above would be much apprecaited.
Thanks,
unclefester - thank you.
That is the badboy. I tried to look up the exploded diagram on lings but couldn't find it. Main issue is you can't see it once you take the necessary parts out.
See here:

you need to do something similar to this:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tn9S3nlZI08[/media]
if it is orientated like that exploded diagram I'll try root around with a screwdriver/pliers and see if it will ping out....
WF - colour match was fine. the ding was significant and on the crease. I can replace a door (well getting there) relatively easily and low cost but I will struggle with bodywork and respray.
See here:

you need to do something similar to this:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tn9S3nlZI08[/media]
if it is orientated like that exploded diagram I'll try root around with a screwdriver/pliers and see if it will ping out....
WF - colour match was fine. the ding was significant and on the crease. I can replace a door (well getting there) relatively easily and low cost but I will struggle with bodywork and respray.
I had to inspect something so jacked it up insitu not really thinking about the protruding part. result was a hand size dent in the horizontal crease of the door
Originally Posted by richmc' timestamp='1364918506' post='22445802
[quote name='WinFreak' timestamp='1364917468' post='22445760']
How's the colour match? Replacing the door to get rid of a ding seems a bizarre thing to do imho
How's the colour match? Replacing the door to get rid of a ding seems a bizarre thing to do imho
I had to inspect something so jacked it up insitu not really thinking about the protruding part. result was a hand size dent in the horizontal crease of the door

[/quote]
I'd award that a grade one ouch! Feel for you.
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If it's anything like my old crx than you can adjust that where the hinges bolt to the car, when you shut the door and measure between wing and door at the top and bottom you can work out whether the top or the bottom hinge needs to go forward or back
What WF say; the trick is moving the door lock & hinge bolts to get it 100% flush and moving the A Pillar bolts to get the shutlines consistent.
You may need to use wedges to position the door like factory. Maybe some laminate flooring ones from Focusbase?
This may take some time; patience required!
You may need to use wedges to position the door like factory. Maybe some laminate flooring ones from Focusbase?
This may take some time; patience required!



