My engine warning light came on a week or two back when I stalled it.
Rob at Garage R reset it when I had it serviced and told me it was something to do with the throttle position – which seemed to make sense.

It's just come on again.
The car runs fine, no misfired or anything odd, but whenever I take my foot off the gas with the clutch down the car idles down and dies.
It's a lot like when the batteries disconnected and the ECU is re-learning.

My local Honda Garage want to charge me £58.75 just for checking the code.. !!

My current plan is to buy or borrow a fault reader (can anyone help there?)
And maybe reset the code myself by popping the fuse (if I can find the link again).

Has anyone seen this before?
Is it likely I need a new throttle body, throttle cable? Anything like that?

 

Where are you? (lots of people on here have hand-held readers that can read and reset your fault)

I know mine has shown errors with the TPS but that alone has never caused it to throw a CEL.

 

You should be able to 'read' the code yourself.

Have a look/feel around under the dash on the drivers side and you should find a rubber 'block' with a two pin connector in it.

The block is only holding it, it doesn't actually close a circuit with the connector.

Once you have found this, grab yourself a short bit of wire or a paperclip, and bridge the two pins, thus closing the circuit, it only has to be temporary so no need to go OTT.

Now, when you turn your ignition the 2nd position (dash lights on etc) you should find that your engine management light is flashing in a particular sequence.

There will be a number of flashes, possibly long and short.

These correspond to ECU fault codes.

Look here:

http://www.modifry.com/freebies/old/dtc/index.htm

I dont think the instructions on how to make your CEL light blink a code will be accurate, as they are for LHD cars. But the codes are the same.

So for instance, if your light did one long blink, and four short, you would know the IAC valve is registering a fault.

Its worth mentioning that the CEL light will cycle all the codes, and then repeat itself. So if you only get the same code repeating, then you only have one registered fault.

You dig?

HTH.

 

I bought one of these years ago and it has paid for itself many times over.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/066-OBDII-OBD2-Fault...6#ht_2108wt_844

Item number:220616529670 if the link doesn't work.

 

The paperclip method does not work on a UK car only JDM.

You could see if the connector is okay or not gummed up, theres many things to look at sometimes it not actually tge TPS at fault but first read the code and if possible monitor the TPS.

 

was that Avonvale, they tried the same trick on me - I have a code reader you can try if you want (it doesn't work on 2006, but should on earlier cars)

or Marshalls in Lutterworth did the code for free on mine....

 

Thanks for that mate.
I've just called Marshalls and they've said they'll do a basic check for free and then if it needs a further check or anything more they'll talk about money.

Sounds like exactly the sort of thing I need.

If this doesn’t work out then I'll give you a shout about having a go with your card reader.

 

Errrr.

2002 - UKDM and it really does work!

Is it different between years?

 

Hi Rob, with the stalling it's possible the TPS is playing up. It gives out a 0-5 v signal from closed to fully open, and at 0.5 ish volts, the ECU knows the car should be in idle mode. So a screwy voltage can mess up the fuelling and cut out.

Best thing is to get the code and go from there. There are then ways to look at the voltage and guide you. To idagnose it you would need something like a multimeter or a gizmo to plug into the ECU and get the voltage.

It lives on the TB, on the left of the MAP sensor (black thing) and is easily replaced, but again you would need a gizmo to set it's position as you need to get the closed throttle voltage right.



I'm sure Garage R can do it, or I can if you are ever down this way

PS - i'd personally be happy buying a used one from a low miler, as they don't often go wrong.

 

That's the throttle position sensor - right?