Hi all,

Finally getting around to fitting the strut-braces I've received (Cusco front upper and rear lower, Muz front lower x-brace).

Muz one is the most comprehensive - instructions, new bolts, washers. Think there's enough info and kit there.


Cusco, however, are a problem...
- Instructions in Japanese (OK, it's just undo bolts, fit brace, redo bolts, but what about torque?)
- No bolts for either (but turret-tops have bolts in, and the rear-lower looks like a replacement part)
- No washers with either (would have though fitting a washer between bolt and brace would make sense, or even between bodywork and brace).


So...
- Should I get some washers (e.g. 7/8ths), and if so where'd be best to fit them? Oh, and split washers or ordinary?
- Any ideas on the torque settings for both front upper and rear lower?


Thanks,

Martin.

 

Anyone?!?

 

I've bought the rear Cusco pair too. I'll tell you what I get if they ever turn up.

But surely they just replace the existing parts and so the bolts are the existing ones with the existing torque (i.e. look in the manual)? That's what I was expecting.

 

I put M10 flat washers under the brace to save marking the paint for when I come to sell.
Torque figure was 49 Nm






Russ.

 

I recently put my Cusco top front brace on, and I used a piece of foam to sandwich between the brace mount and top of the suspension turrent. I was going to get some nylon washers, but had more luck with the foam.

I got a sheet from my local Hobby Craft for 50p. I just drew round one of the mounts to get the basic shape, and then cut holes for the two threads and one central hole for the top of the suspension to poke through. All in all I'm very happy with the results, and it protects the paint on the top of the strut towers.



I'm just not sure what I should torque the braces nuts up to?

 

Cheers guys.

49Nm sounds close - the Muz lower front says 28 lb ft, which sounds about the same - essentially hand-tight with a small spanner.

Got some metal washers lying around which I was going to use for the front upper, but I like the foam / nylon washer idea...might just go out today try and find something.

 

Due to the compressability of anything other than a steel/alloy washer
it would worry me that the nut could come loose at such a low torque.

If you use a flat washer the same outer diameter as the Honda nut
then when you take the brace off and put the nut back on the
compressed paint mark wont show.

Russ.

 

I'd use steel ones, we're trying to eliminate movement here.

28 lb ft sounds right. My TQ is a dinosaur.

The reason you need washers, is because the bolts are recessed into a thicker flitch welded into the strut turret.

Be sure to use a TQ & not a spanner (you'll need a hex socket for a Whiteline lower brace) because again, correct tension is important not to lose bits or strip nuts.

It's worth the lie down, too!

 

When fitting the front lower brace, make sure you only torque up the nuts when the car is back on the ground. It is possible (just) to react all four of the nuts with the car on the floor

 

Done. I cheated with the lower ones and got a friendly garage to do it for me...glad I did as the Muz front-lower was a big of a pig - about 3-5mm out of alignment, needed a long bar to 'bend' it into place ehough to screw in...

Now considering getting the geo checked, just to be sure...