Geometry Settings
I've got a 99' JDM with standard suspension but 17s on the front and 18s on the rear. Can I still use the suggested geo settings as per this:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=m...image&img=46602
This says:
-1 front camber -2 rear camber
0 toe front 0.2inch rear
caster 6.45"
r8byb says this is the fast road setup:
-0.5 front camber - 1.5 rear camber
0 toe front +3.0mm rear toe
From your experience, for someone who wants the most stable ride, what am I better going with? I've used the search and the FAQ. Many thanks
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=m...image&img=46602
This says:
-1 front camber -2 rear camber
0 toe front 0.2inch rear
caster 6.45"
r8byb says this is the fast road setup:
-0.5 front camber - 1.5 rear camber
0 toe front +3.0mm rear toe
From your experience, for someone who wants the most stable ride, what am I better going with? I've used the search and the FAQ. Many thanks
The link you posted is HUK's response to journo's bining them, it just makes it less twitchy.
"stable" can come from high caster (HUK max it out) which makes the steering self centres more.
Have a think about what you mean by "stable"
IME you will be fine with the HUK settings on a road car
"stable" can come from high caster (HUK max it out) which makes the steering self centres more.
Have a think about what you mean by "stable"
IME you will be fine with the HUK settings on a road car
Thanks Mikey,
By stable I guess I mean 'planted', 'solid' etc. I will certainly only want it road use. Less twitchy is what i'm after. Am I right in thinking the workshop settings are what they used in the factory?
Also, will my bigger rims at the back situation change any of this? Or does that make no difference to camber/caster/toe?
Thank you
Jamie
By stable I guess I mean 'planted', 'solid' etc. I will certainly only want it road use. Less twitchy is what i'm after. Am I right in thinking the workshop settings are what they used in the factory?
Also, will my bigger rims at the back situation change any of this? Or does that make no difference to camber/caster/toe?
Thank you
Jamie
Yep workshop was the orginal factory settings
The "rims" will affect the the handling but not the geometry
They are heavier (more unsprung weight) and have a lot less tyre to contribute to the damping.
BTW be aware the more camber you add the quick the inside edge of your tyres will wear
The "rims" will affect the the handling but not the geometry
They are heavier (more unsprung weight) and have a lot less tyre to contribute to the damping.
BTW be aware the more camber you add the quick the inside edge of your tyres will wear
Great, thanks Mikey. Is 6.45 camber considered too much for most on here, or is it widely regarded as an acceptable level for 'road-use'?
Seeing as i've no record as to whether this ten year old car has ever had this done, lining the four wheels up in the same direction is likely to be an improvement!
All of this is fairly dependent on whether or not it's seized up or not anyway.
Seeing as i've no record as to whether this ten year old car has ever had this done, lining the four wheels up in the same direction is likely to be an improvement!
All of this is fairly dependent on whether or not it's seized up or not anyway.
Do you mean 6deg 45' of caster? 6deg of camber is somewhat over the top! I'd go with something nearer to 6deg, but it's a personal preference, others will say to have much less.
There is no "fast road" setup as such - there are various setups you can use, according to your driving style.
As you say, having things lined up will make the biggest difference.
There is no "fast road" setup as such - there are various setups you can use, according to your driving style.
As you say, having things lined up will make the biggest difference.
Yeh, that's it lovegroova. My knowledge of alignments/geometries/suspension can all be fit onto one centre cap!
I'll go with the Honda UK settings and consider alterations at a later date. Lets just hope I don't lose my prinout as if it's down to memory I could end up with my 6deg of camber!
Cheers
I'll go with the Honda UK settings and consider alterations at a later date. Lets just hope I don't lose my prinout as if it's down to memory I could end up with my 6deg of camber!
Cheers
Trending Topics
more castor = better straight line stability = worse turning
front toe in = better straight line stability = worse turning, more understeer
rear toe in = better rear stability and less oversteer
decide what you like
front toe in = better straight line stability = worse turning, more understeer
rear toe in = better rear stability and less oversteer
decide what you like
I see you are quoting inches and mm for toe values in amongst degrees.
If you alter the wheels then it may make measuring those toe numbers tricky for anyone other than a specialist.
Try and get them in degrees too, to avoid confusion and errors.
If you alter the wheels then it may make measuring those toe numbers tricky for anyone other than a specialist.
Try and get them in degrees too, to avoid confusion and errors.







