Apologies if I missed this, but I did an extensive search and didnt find what I needed some time ago.

So, following my KW Install and lowering the car, I needed to reset the correct position of th HID headlamps.

Many of you will be familiar with the manual screw adjustment on the back of the lamps themselves.
this is for fine tuning the height of the beams.
However, there is also an overriding autolevelling device bolted onto the NSR lower suspension arm.

This unit adjusts the headlamp beams to compensate for weight in the boot so you don't dazzle oncoming drivers.
As the suspension compresses with load in the rear of the car, the adjuster will wind the lamps downwards a fraction.
The full rage of adjustment allowed by the autoleveller at 7.5M away is about 8" up and downm (beam shining on a wall)
The actual adjustment to the beams is by small motors that tilt stuff inside each headlamp (technically speaking)

According the the Service manuals, the system detects the vehicle posture every three minutes during driving, constantly, so long as the headlamps are ON.
It also does it after eight seconds when the vehicle is stationary, with the ignition switch ON and headlights ON.
If the vehicle posture has changed, it adjusts the headlight vertical position automatically.
I found that stationary, moving the leveller on the NSR adjusts the beam almost instantly.

The pot on the rear suspension supplies a variable resistance to the controller module under the dash, this supplies the correct voltage steps to the headlamp motors.

Following my lowering / uprating suspension work (or replacing any parts) you may need to adjust the NSR height sensor, then fine tune under the bonnet with the headlamp manual adjustment screws.
The beams were so high after lowering, I doubt the manual adjusters would cope with the travel required.
The autoleveller had moved the beam as far as it could, and ran out of travel.
So, although the autoleveller had tried it's best, the beams were still too high due to the lower rear of the car (before the KW, the rear of the stock S2K 2006 was higher at the rear by 15mm).

The actual NSR linkage needs to be of a suitable length so it puts the autolevelling system in aproximately the correct point.
(I tried simply resetting the controller as per the ESM but this made NO diference to the motor drives).
They do work fine so I'm guessing they changed something on the later cars.

Here's something important that I did discover on my car:-
If you remove the rear suspension arm bracket from the adjuster so you can move it across its full range, the actual operating area of the sensor is only in the middle third of its arc.
Towards fully up, and fully down, the headlamps have already adjusted as far as they can so the last third does no more 'adjusting' if you like.
So, it has to be set roughly correct to be within its operating range.
After lowering the car, it put the sensor right at the top of its arc, which motors the headlamps right down to their lowest operating point.
So now, if you manually adjust the lamps and add weight to the boot say, the autoleveller would no longer do anything - its already at almost maximum beam down.

It explains why after lowering, my lights were a bit high (didnt make sense) and the autoleveller didn't appear to work - it was the sensor was outside of its operating range.

You can get to the adjuster rod with the car sat normally. Undo the two lock nuts (10mm spanner) and turn the barrel nut in the centre to shorten the rod a few mm.
I set it with the car set normally, and brought the adjuster onto range by shortening it until I could just see it starting to control the headlamps downwards.
I pulled it down so it was a little below the marks described in the next paragraph.
The reason being that this will allow a little up travel also, but the most range is adjustment downwards.

This is the autolevelling sensor adjustment rod (undone) from the suspension arm:-



Park the car 7.5m away from a wall.
You need a driver in the car and be on level ground.
Measure from the floor to the middle of the HID (domed) lens.
Mark a line on the wall with chalk, pen or tape at this measured level, from the ground.
The top of the HID beam on both lamps should be equal in level and 52mm below your marked lines.
Get this roughly right with the suspension adjuster and tighten the locknuts. Grease everything well!
Fine tune the aim up and down with a crosshead screwdriver on the manual adjusters behind the headlamps.
You'll need to move the header bottle on the NSF to get access to that headamp.
The adjusters are white plastic with a toothed metal 'washer' around them - insert a screwdriver into the side and they turn the knobs.

Jobs a goodun!

 

There's a great guide for this on the Modifry website.

 

Try this thread from last month:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=644684

 

Damn the modifry freebie bit is still down

 

Exactly why I ran about without success.
So, heres a how and why.
Its fairly simple once you unbolt the adjuster with the headlamps on and start moving it about.
What was puzzling was why they didnt autolevel after lowering the car.
The ESM says to reset the controller by turning ignition ON, and within five seconds you turn the headlamps on five times - leaving them on at the fith time.
This did nothing for me, so I assume the controller has changed.

I hoped you could re-zero the adjustment motor travel by doing this, but no joy on my MY06.
Had to resort to mechanical means.

The controller is working fine, as is everything else, once its in the correct operation range of the sensor.

 

Must do this on mine once I've corner weighted it again!