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Hub Nuts Remove and Fit

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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 01:47 PM
  #21  
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[QUOTE=Chris Type R,Jul 12 2007, 10:22 PM] There was a pair of drive shafts for sale on pistonheads - unless Mans Best has got to them -
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 01:59 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Bassoctopus,Jul 12 2007, 10:09 PM
I just got my dealer to do it when they were servicing the car.

No cost, and no hassle
My main concern with the dealer, was they might ignore my request of torquing to 220lb and end up having the same issue in a while. Besides, it seems the problem was there already and my mistake has helped find it. If I had not broken it know, it might happen in the highway and the results might not be that good.
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 02:18 PM
  #23  
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I have removed the broken part and as you can see from the photo, there is another circular crack, parallel to the break point.



Also, if you look closely, there is evidence of rust in the cracked area, indicating I only finished it off, whilst the car was parked in the garage thankfully and not in the road.



P.S. I know I'm a useless photographer, but you get the point
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 02:43 PM
  #24  
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Is that hub-nut lug thing a standard way to stop the nut?

It's exactly the same on my Honda m-bike (but a 46mm nut) - took a while to work out WTF "unstake" the nut meant in the manual

(why is the hub nut being removed and refitted anyway? - I must have missed this on here over the years)
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 02:55 PM
  #25  
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On pre facelift cars, the hub nuts were down to 180lbs and there was less thread on the nuts. Obviously, this wasn't enough and many owners were reporting an odd clicking sound when changing direction. Later on, the problem was found and Honda recommended torquing the nuts up to 220lbs and released updated hub nuts with more thread.

Jaeger organized a group buy and I amongst others, purchased the newer nuts. 8-9 months later, I eventually decided to go ahead and change them but apparently I was a bit late
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 04:25 AM
  #26  
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I was part of the same group buy & still haven't fitted my nuts - despite having the clicking sound.
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 04:50 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by YiorgoS2k,Jul 12 2007, 02:18 PM
I have removed the broken part and as you can see from the photo, there is another circular crack, parallel to the break point.
maybe so... but you still did it the wrong way, it just snapped at the weakest point when loaded to 220.... can the engine load it this high?
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 07:15 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Ste_Nova,Jul 13 2007, 02:50 PM
maybe so... but you still did it the wrong way, it just snapped at the weakest point when loaded to 220.... can the engine load it this high?
As you can see from the other picture, there was rust, where the shaft broke, indicating that the initial damage was made by the car, despite the low torque. Maybe because the nut wasn't tight enough allowing some movement and maximizing the stress on the shaft? Anyway, the damage is done... I did the other side with no problems, but if the guy from pistonheads reply, I will change both driveshafts, just to be sure. If not, I may take them both apart to see how the o/s is doing.
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 07:31 AM
  #29  
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[QUOTE=YiorgoS2k,Jul 13 2007, 04:15 PM] As you can see from the other picture, there was rust, where the shaft broke, indicating that the initial damage was made by the car, despite the low torque.
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 07:39 AM
  #30  
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If I do get them from the guy eventually, you can have my CV joints if you pay for shipping. After all, you are the one who provided the link.
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