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Kangarooing from warm starts

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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 04:33 AM
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Default Kangarooing from warm starts

Can anyone help me with this problem ?

My S has done this intermitantly for the past year now. (Not for the past 3/4 months)

Ive had a look at the FAQ and just been out in my lunch 1/2 hour and disconected the battery and given the map sensor a "tap" , Its got rid of the engine light but i havnt had chance to drive it yet.

Anyone had/got similar problems with "kangarooing" when warm ?

Russ
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Squirelfish,Jan 29 2007, 05:33 AM

disconected the battery and given the map sensor a "tap" , Its got rid of the engine light but i havnt had chance to drive it yet.
If the EML has been on because of the MAP sensor, the MAP sensor is beyond help, you may see a temporary improvement.

The other thing is, it sounds like all you have done is disconnected and then reconnected the battery without doing the full reset procedure??

Procedure:

From cold - disconnect battery, wait a few minutes for the system to drain (this allows stored adaptive code data to clear) then reconnect battery, start car but DO NOT touch any controls, let the car struggle to idle if necessary, the ECU is now learning the idle / tick over point. Wait all the way till the cooling fan cuts in, when the fan has gone off and come back on the THIRD time, jump in the car and drive it like you stole it!! This will then set the adaptive codes to that kind of driving style making your S really lively

IMHO tho, I think you may need to consult Hard top guy asap and get yourself a new MAP sensor on order.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 06:44 AM
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Its generally a fault with the MAP sensor itself. I personally believe they have a short life span, and suffer from oil mist coming back through the engine breather.

Lloyd, its a CEL light and stop nicking my info

The ECU doesnt adapt to your driving style at all, the reset means its running with no real knock correction, and the short and long term fuelling trims are no more, hence it feels rather rapid. You wont really notice it but quite quickly the fuelling and ignition timing will set itself to a required level, given any slight issues with the car, fuel etc.

MB
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 07:00 AM
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EML = engine management light
CEL = check engine light

Same difference.. nerrrr!!!
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Dark Blue Mark,Jan 29 2007, 07:44 AM

The ECU doesnt adapt to your driving style at all, the reset means its running with no real knock correction, and the short and long term fuelling trims are no more, hence it feels rather rapid. You wont really notice it but quite quickly the fuelling and ignition timing will set itself to a required level, given any slight issues with the car, fuel etc.

MB
I was merely saying the same thing but in English!!
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Dark Blue Mark,Jan 29 2007, 07:44 AM
Its generally a fault with the MAP sensor itself. I personally believe they have a short life span, and suffer from oil mist coming back through the engine breather.

Lloyd, its a CEL light and stop nicking my info

The ECU doesnt adapt to your driving style at all, the reset means its running with no real knock correction, and the short and long term fuelling trims are no more, hence it feels rather rapid. You wont really notice it but quite quickly the fuelling and ignition timing will set itself to a required level, given any slight issues with the car, fuel etc.

MB
I'll see how it goes tonight and post back tmw !

How much are MAP sensors ?

Russ
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 11:15 AM
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 01:45 PM
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My car is kangarooing too...i'm going to try the ECU reset by removing the fuse tomorrow. Is it really a good idea to drive it hard after the reset? If the knock detection is effectively disabled would this not potentially cause problems? I've read quite a few posts on this and this is the first time i've heard it be suggested that the car be driven hard after a reset...
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 01:57 PM
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I had nightmare problems with my last S that manifested itself as warm start kangarooing - when the garage took everything apart for the 3rd or 4th time they eventually diagnosed it as wiring loom corrosion, and latterly the ECU had to be replaced as the pins were corroded.
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 12:19 AM
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S2ook, knock correction isn't *disabled*, its just reset.

Its fine to do this, the knock correction adjusts quite quickly to anything major, and starts from a safe level, assuming you are using good fuel.

Euans point is the next check really, a few people have had this now. Not cheap to fix!

MB
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