Keyless Entry
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From: Land of The Prince Bishops
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/01-Honda-S...UAAOSwu1VW7iGX
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 478
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From: Norfolk
Not same part number though, so would prefer to get one that is the same to be sure. I've already tried loads of things that haven't worked so far, so am loathe to keep throwing money at things that "might" work....
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 91
Likes: 2
From: Land of The Prince Bishops
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 91
Likes: 2
From: Land of The Prince Bishops
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 478
Likes: 32
From: Norfolk
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 91
Likes: 2
From: Land of The Prince Bishops
Dear Forum, after all of my positive and hopefully correct diagnostic I am afraid to say that the problem I had with door locking had still persisted. As did my occasional alarm going off issue.
HOWEVER! I now think that I have eradicated both of these niggling problems. Here's why. After reading a blog from another owner regarding the Thatcham Cat 1 alarm I decided to follow
the instructions to diagnose the last fault code. ( Ignition ON press lock button followed by indent button 3 times ) red light shows the entry circuit problem where the fault lies. In my case the bonnet. (hood) 3 flashes.
The switch under the bonnet is like the one on your fridge; you never really know if the light has gone off. Well, my light was not going off! I had already cleaned and lubricated the switch to no avail and also
put a velcro pad under the bonnet where I thought the button was in contact with the bonnet without any success. THEN, I modified my switch and made the contact button longer. Bingo. So far and a week later no alarm going off, doors locking like they should. The picture here will explain how I did it. https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/
HOWEVER! I now think that I have eradicated both of these niggling problems. Here's why. After reading a blog from another owner regarding the Thatcham Cat 1 alarm I decided to follow
the instructions to diagnose the last fault code. ( Ignition ON press lock button followed by indent button 3 times ) red light shows the entry circuit problem where the fault lies. In my case the bonnet. (hood) 3 flashes.
The switch under the bonnet is like the one on your fridge; you never really know if the light has gone off. Well, my light was not going off! I had already cleaned and lubricated the switch to no avail and also
put a velcro pad under the bonnet where I thought the button was in contact with the bonnet without any success. THEN, I modified my switch and made the contact button longer. Bingo. So far and a week later no alarm going off, doors locking like they should. The picture here will explain how I did it. https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 91
Likes: 2
From: Land of The Prince Bishops
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 91
Likes: 2
From: Land of The Prince Bishops
Finally discovered the problem to my intermittent door locking failure using the remote fob.
Under the dash (on my car) drivers side and taped onto the plastic molding there is a plastic box which contains the Hamilton Palmer keyless entry module.
This is in addition to the unit located under the drivers seat. There is no connector to the circuit board and the wires to the unit are soldered directly onto
the board. This unit bypasses the Honda keyless entry module. I knew this was the problem as soon as I had it in my hand because by disturbing the unit it
suddenly began to work while it was in my hand and I could feel and hear the two relays on the board clicking.
This led me to believe that it was either, one or both of the relays which were failing, or, there was a soldered joint gone dry where the wires attach to the PCB
The easiest and cheapest option was to first re-soften the solder at each wire connection before removing and testing the relays. I did this six weeks ago and
have used the car daily for both long and short runs and the doors have locked every time and seemingly with more of a positive and immediate response to the
remote fob.
The unit on my car was easy to drop down to access but I believe some may have been located behind the kick panel at the side.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/338430...posted-public/ Myhttps://www.flickr.com/photos/33843082@N08/30175357691/in/dateposted-public/ link
Under the dash (on my car) drivers side and taped onto the plastic molding there is a plastic box which contains the Hamilton Palmer keyless entry module.
This is in addition to the unit located under the drivers seat. There is no connector to the circuit board and the wires to the unit are soldered directly onto
the board. This unit bypasses the Honda keyless entry module. I knew this was the problem as soon as I had it in my hand because by disturbing the unit it
suddenly began to work while it was in my hand and I could feel and hear the two relays on the board clicking.
This led me to believe that it was either, one or both of the relays which were failing, or, there was a soldered joint gone dry where the wires attach to the PCB
The easiest and cheapest option was to first re-soften the solder at each wire connection before removing and testing the relays. I did this six weeks ago and
have used the car daily for both long and short runs and the doors have locked every time and seemingly with more of a positive and immediate response to the
remote fob.
The unit on my car was easy to drop down to access but I believe some may have been located behind the kick panel at the side.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/338430...posted-public/ Myhttps://www.flickr.com/photos/33843082@N08/30175357691/in/dateposted-public/ link