westburywheeler

Hi any tips on fitting a OEM clutch kit into a 2001 MY.Ive fitted a few clutches in my time as a mech engineer but not for quite a few years and not on an S. The cars done 125000 mls and is suffering from quite bad droning/vibration on overrun, which I think is coming from the clutch area. Does the transmission tunnel carpets need to come off, if so do the seats need removing. Anybody on here done this ?

tailhappy

No need to touch the carpet or seats. Taking the exhaust manifold off is recommended. It's a time consuming job. Top nut on the bell housing is a pig to get to even with long extensions on the socket.

noodels

May be you had a Triumph Spitfire before,done a few of them in my time

BenRNBP

Not done one myself but the knock sensor is brittle and gets easily damaged trying to undo one of the bolts (starter motor ?) so be extra careful there

lovegroova

I'd make sure it's not catalytic converter rattle first.

s3swiss

Worth jacking the rear up and trying a few runs in gear to make sure it is definitely coming from the clutch area. With that mileage, I'd have thought it would have had a replacement already possibly - nothing in the service history? As others have said - the trickiest bit is getting the gearbox off the engine (and disconnecting everything you need to do that). If you do need to do it - start soaking your prop-shaft to diff bolts in plusgas now - and then buy a good correct hex type bit to get them out. They take some undoing (as you'd expect given their location )

jayok

Done my own only last week a MY01. Various techniques from dropping the subframe to the tilt method. For me though, I didn't want to drop the subframe as the alignment would be knocked out and those bolts look very rusty (aka seized). In addition I didn't fancy removing the exhaust manifold as these look equally seized. So, I went with removing the engine mounts - worked out great.

The method is basically:

1. disconnect the battery
2. Remove airbox, aux belt
3. Remove alternator and get at the top starter bolt (how I hate you bolt)

Get under the car and do the following:

1. Disconnect the front of the cat from the exhaust manifold
2. Support remove the slave and fork
3. Remove the prop shaft completely (you need the space)
4. Support the transmission and the engine with jacks
5. Remove all the accessible gearbox bolts (lower ones)
6. Remove the rear mount at the gearbox
7. Remove the left and right engine mount (remove the bolts into the engine - 4 each side)
8. Lower the whole lot about 3 inches
9. Disconnect all the cables and wiring on the gearbox case
10. Remove all the upper bolts
11. Separate the transmission

Took me about 8 hours - but if I'd to do again, it'd probably take 4-5.


My flywheel was also pretty rough (at only 38K miles) so I recommend you get yours resurfaced:

tozerman

Great write up Jayok how high did you have to raise the car ? and did you do it solo ?

jayok

Thanks!

It was a solo run, you'll need to raise the car > 18". Get it to 24" and it's much easier. Some railway sleepers added 6" of height the base.

westburywheeler

Thanks to all for your tips. Had the car up on the hoist with a mechanic a couple of month back and couldnt ID the vibration 100% , have been letting it develope. At 125000mls thought it could do with a clutch what ever. Checked the cat, exhaust boxes, diff, propshaft, and bearings but nothing conclusive, it is getting worse, so first step clutch. After reading your comments, considering chucking it at the local honda dealer, but 4.8hrs at £88.0 p/hr is a bit steep, clutch kit was £345.00, will see what my tame mechanic will charge.Will update on here as and when. Thanks again every body.