thats a good price for a bosch! is it plug and play though? i got 2 bosch sensors from euro car parts and didnt realise they were universal

 

Yeah fantastic price I thought,

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FedEx say it should be here tomorrow as well so even better,

 

I hope for you it lasts longer than all the other aftermarket ones I've read about do.

 

This is kind of why I asked my question earlier; Bosch are my "goto" brand for the two VW Golfs. The two Bosch primary O2 sensors on my 4motion have lasted as long as I've had the car (6-7 years) but I'm not sure I trust them on the S2000. I have no empirical reasoning for this apart from the idea that German bits go on a German car and Japanese on a Jap car - hence I'd probably end up going for NTK or Denso for no other reason. Of course this get's blown out the water when VW recommend NGK Spark plugs

 

Turned up at 9:10 this morning,

If it only lasts 2 years I can buy 3 and have change then buy one Honda one and might not even last the 7-8 years,

Just have to see

 

Sensor fitted,

P0135 code no longer on the ECU but P0157 Front Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
Circuit Low Voltage now shows up,

Is this a error with having the new sensor or it's now playing up with the Decat? It does have a Cel fix and a Casper Cel eliminator and has been fine in the last 3k plus till now,

Try a ECU Reset?

 

It's not P0157 it's:

P1157 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) AFS Line High Voltage
P1157 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Circuit High Voltage
P1157 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range/Performance Problem

Just bite the bullet and buy a Honda Sensor?

 

I had no joy with 2 genuine Honda sensors from tegiwa. Ended up with a 'blueprint' one my mechanic got me and it works perfectly. I spent months looking for a problem that turned out to be dodgy sensors. All I can say is try another.

 

I'd try unplugging it and plugging it back in again in the first instance just to make sure it's not a dodgy connection. I think I'd also try an ECU re-set too.

The explanations I found were;
- Faulty Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
- Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 harness is open or shorted
- Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 circuit poor electrical connection

Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p1157_honda.html#ixzz3mRl83dVG

 

With the Ecu reset is it advisable to do the get it warm and then pull the fuse and go out for a blast in vtec?

Can I just pull it for 10 mins then leave it idling? The weather is crap and vtec and boost is a bit harder to get a good open space,

Things come up very fast