rear arch rust
it depends how deep the rust it, usually....u can grind it until u see the bare metal, but by looking at those bubble it looks as those u need some new metal putting on, so cut out and weld is the best option otherwise the rust will just come back again!!
ok, so new metal is the way togo...
are we talking about cutting & shaping sheet metal, or can you source repair panels somehow?
im thinking one of those mobile welder guys might be worth a shot... the type that do sill/subframe welding, then off to body shop/chips away for a spray. am i in the right ball park?
are we talking about cutting & shaping sheet metal, or can you source repair panels somehow?
im thinking one of those mobile welder guys might be worth a shot... the type that do sill/subframe welding, then off to body shop/chips away for a spray. am i in the right ball park?
Originally Posted by biker1,Nov 6 2009, 03:05 PM
Everyone should take that stupid rubber (water trap) off as soon as the car is new - that goes a long way to preventing rust on the arches in that area.
Eeeek that is bad.
Mine is a MY99 and no sign of anything that bad, although Im taking the rubber strips off and rear bumper as Ive heard there is usually some lurking behind there too.
Mine is a MY99 and no sign of anything that bad, although Im taking the rubber strips off and rear bumper as Ive heard there is usually some lurking behind there too.
Originally Posted by biker1,Nov 6 2009, 02:05 PM
Everyone should take that stupid rubber (water trap) off as soon as the car is new - that goes a long way to preventing rust on the arches in that area.
I have filled the rubber extrusion with waxoyl and reinstalled them and put more waxoyl in the prone areas to prevent any rust from starting.
I did the same on my old EF CRX VTEC years ago and it was as clean as a whistle after 4 years of ownership. As most people know the CRX was as prone to rear arsh rust.
[QUOTE=composite guru,Nov 6 2009, 05:00 PM]It does serve a purpose by the way pf stopping stones taking chunks out of the arch lip.
I have filled the rubber extrusion with waxoyl and reinstalled them and put more waxoyl in the prone areas to prevent any rust from starting.
I did the same on my old EF CRX VTEC years ago and it was as clean as a whistle after 4 years of ownership. As most people know the CRX was as prone to rear arsh rust.
I have filled the rubber extrusion with waxoyl and reinstalled them and put more waxoyl in the prone areas to prevent any rust from starting.
I did the same on my old EF CRX VTEC years ago and it was as clean as a whistle after 4 years of ownership. As most people know the CRX was as prone to rear arsh rust.
Originally Posted by biker1,Nov 8 2009, 08:58 AM
Its the lesser of to evils - Rust or chips?
I've never had to much luck with Waxoyl in exposed areas, at least when the rubber is not there you can see the chips if you get any, with rust it sneakly creeps up on you and then its to late
I've never had to much luck with Waxoyl in exposed areas, at least when the rubber is not there you can see the chips if you get any, with rust it sneakly creeps up on you and then its to late

The only thing I have found to stop rust in its tracks is gearbox oil injected with a syringe and a bit of tubing.
It creeps by capillary action into double skinned areas like this, excludes all the water stopping any further rusting
I have removed the trims completely, when I get time I will replace with helicopter tape to prevent any stone chips on the edge.
It creeps by capillary action into double skinned areas like this, excludes all the water stopping any further rusting

I have removed the trims completely, when I get time I will replace with helicopter tape to prevent any stone chips on the edge.




