I'm soon to fit Tein Flex to my car but I wont be bothering with bumpsteer kits. I've recently fitted a front lower brace and was very impressed with the instant results.

 

Some very good advice here, just soaking it up.

It's always tricky to know what is essential / required / nice to have, but I think I just want it "right" and "fit and forget"

Steve M1JBR has given me some good tips offline too.

Dave, what make ARB did you go for?

I'm tempted to just drop the car off to CG with the coilovers and ask to give me a shout once its done

Ron, can you easily fit the EDFC motors to the rear after you fit the coilover, or it best to fit the motor and put the coilover up through?

There is an excellent guide to fitting them in the UTH FAQ.

 

I can get these for a good price too:

 

I've got Whitelines. I'm not entirely sure why I chose those over the others, probably because they were cheaper at the time. IIRC The Cuscos are slightly thicker at the front, which might be better. There's always those that say just fit the front, but I found I didn't like the handling with just the front on and it felt a bit strange how the rear rolled more than the front.

One good thing with the Whitelines is that they come with poly bushes and an uprated bracket.

 

That's what I'm doing.

Chris is going to fit some new Gaz coilovers to my car on Thursday, as well as doing geo/corner weighting etc and then we've got the afternoon on Friday to test it all and make adjustments as necessary.

Question though, will my amps get in the way?

 

With my kw v3's with roughly the same amount of drop, I also got steering rack spacers, drive shaft spacers, and megan toe arms.

In hindsight, I don't think I'd have got the toe arms. The idea is anti-bumpsteer, but this only applies to the pre-04 cars in this area, which I didn't realize at the time. Honda have changed the suspention and this renders these arms redundant.

I'm personally not going to change anything else. The car feels very balanced with this setup, and the coilovers reduce body roll substantially on their own.

 

Why Gaz? And do they come in those little blue bottles?

Looks from the second picture the amps can be moved out the way. You only need to reach two nuts behind the filler pipe.

 

MB as your car is the same age as mine and you are doing similar stuff to me here is my set up and experience.

Current set up - ~30mm drop on Nitron Tracks with pillow mounts and rear remote adjusters, 12 mm front rack spacers, whiteline front ARB, OEM drop links all round.

How I did it - no need to split any ball joints, forcing the wishbones down should give enough room to get OEM out and new ones in on lowest ride setting. If not undone the bolts holding the upper wishbones to thier mounts. Be careful of the ABS sensors! No need to move the petrol pipe. Tape the nut to the socket and use a UJ to go down between the inlet and breather. Don't forget to preload the suspension before torquing up, I did this just by jacking up that corner under the ball joint until it started to lift of the axle stand.

Set them all up in mid range, drive to CG for corner weighting (it does make a difference ) and geo.

To make any difference to the RWS you will need adjustable rear control arms. I bought a set of Megans, but on reading about wear/failure issues and more vibration transfer I sold them.

 

Thanks, Dave, no need to forewarn Chris then.

Needless to say I've asked for the minimum of drop.

 

Groova - How much for the Gaz? I was told about these at Mallory Park last year and am VERY interested.