what do we do stronger diff
I believe the initial problem is in the crush sleeve that slackens over time and allows play where the ring and pinion gears meet , there is a company that make an item called a solid pinion spacer kit , and that will never slacken off , i'd recommend one when rebuilding a standard diff to chuck one of them in rather than the crush sleeve but even when the gears are aligned properly they just don't seem to hold the stress. The Bearing caps are also our problem , if you haven't sheered the pinion gears by the launches your doing at the drag strip then the throughout pressure of insanely high rpm's inside there will throw out the bearing caps which are as far as i know are structurally integral and can't be beefed up .I will say that IMHO unless you are making considerably more power and/or drag racing and burnouts then the stock diff should manage the odd track day and hard driving , it normally likes to break with: hard launches , clutch kicks , wheel hopping. Hope this helps in your decision making !
I'm currently working on fitting an r200 from a 300zx N/A into my ap2 , obviously there is an off the shelf kit but it is ridiculously overpriced , i hope to have it mounted and working by the end of January , my reason for this swap is my local drag strip has announced free rwyb Runs to all serving armed forces , so i'll be on that most of the summer , and as soon as my drive train is finished i'm going turbo . Good luck
I'm currently working on fitting an r200 from a 300zx N/A into my ap2 , obviously there is an off the shelf kit but it is ridiculously overpriced , i hope to have it mounted and working by the end of January , my reason for this swap is my local drag strip has announced free rwyb Runs to all serving armed forces , so i'll be on that most of the summer , and as soon as my drive train is finished i'm going turbo . Good luck
Thanks for that post very helpfull. :-)
Ive read that the crush sleeve, the pinion and bearing caps are the potential weakness.
plans for boost (however on hold atm due to wife being made redundant on friday! Nice) but either way a stronger diff
isnt a bad thing.... as long as it can take the power through it when running in race air!! Lol.
What is the companys name who makes the improved sleeves?
Ive read that the crush sleeve, the pinion and bearing caps are the potential weakness.
plans for boost (however on hold atm due to wife being made redundant on friday! Nice) but either way a stronger diff
isnt a bad thing.... as long as it can take the power through it when running in race air!! Lol.
What is the companys name who makes the improved sleeves?
This is some info on the rear builds puddy mod does. Stock build,
A Stage 1.5, 1.5+, 2, 3, and Stage 4
Stock build,
A clean reconditioned rear using stock OEM parts $900
Stage 1.5
This is a rear that will have cryo treated hardware and gears. The rear will also have a Heavy Duty (not stock but looks stock) crush sleeve.
The crush sleeve used in this rear is over 50 thousands heaver than a stock crush sleeve and will hold up much better than the stock unit. $950
Stage 1.5+
Will have everything the 1.5 has plus cryo treated bearing caps and upgraded 10.9 Hardware.
$1,000
PuddyMod Stage 2 Differential for Honda S2000
This build is your best bang for the buck in a upgraded and enhanced diff.
This rear is ideal for N/A and cars with forced induction up to 450+ Horse Power.
PM Stage 2 rear build,
The rear is set up for N/A and boosted cars.
It is rebuilt from the housing in starting with every rotating part being cryogenically thermo cycled, then new pinion bearings and seals are used to assemble. There is a one piece PuddyMod solid steel sleeve used instead of an OEM crush collar. The solid sleeve is made of 10/20 mandrel steel, it is seamless and will not compress under heavy stress like the OEM can. Solid sleeves are used in high performance racing rear ends because they work. The PM sleeve is a custom made part to fit this rear, it is a one piece steel sleeve.
A Stage 1.5, 1.5+, 2, 3, and Stage 4
Stock build,
A clean reconditioned rear using stock OEM parts $900
Stage 1.5
This is a rear that will have cryo treated hardware and gears. The rear will also have a Heavy Duty (not stock but looks stock) crush sleeve.
The crush sleeve used in this rear is over 50 thousands heaver than a stock crush sleeve and will hold up much better than the stock unit. $950
Stage 1.5+
Will have everything the 1.5 has plus cryo treated bearing caps and upgraded 10.9 Hardware.
$1,000
PuddyMod Stage 2 Differential for Honda S2000
This build is your best bang for the buck in a upgraded and enhanced diff.
This rear is ideal for N/A and cars with forced induction up to 450+ Horse Power.
PM Stage 2 rear build,
The rear is set up for N/A and boosted cars.
It is rebuilt from the housing in starting with every rotating part being cryogenically thermo cycled, then new pinion bearings and seals are used to assemble. There is a one piece PuddyMod solid steel sleeve used instead of an OEM crush collar. The solid sleeve is made of 10/20 mandrel steel, it is seamless and will not compress under heavy stress like the OEM can. Solid sleeves are used in high performance racing rear ends because they work. The PM sleeve is a custom made part to fit this rear, it is a one piece steel sleeve.
I import my race air from a supplier I am not willing to divulge right this minute.
The quality is faultless, 80% Pure Oxygen with nano-enhancers for faster and cleaner burning inside the combustion chamber.
I have used this product on all the cars that I have owned and never had an issue. It makes vtec insane! My tuner said it gave me an extra 8bhp in the midrange along with 5nmtrq. - Not to be sniffed at.
I am able to offer multiple pressurized variations ranging from 0.5bar to 4bar.
Pm me for price and postage!

Mike
I just sold a modified diff with Gear-x Ring and pinion, it was only fs in the fs section for 12 months, can't believe it went so quick.
Matty is right, if you are going to modify the rear end to take big power then it needs to be done properly the first time or its a false economy.
I've got a Ford Cobra/Mustang 8.8 with DSS 5.9 Shafts and prop, it's supposed to be bomb proof but it's mega expensive....probably around £5k with duty and shipping.
Matty is right, if you are going to modify the rear end to take big power then it needs to be done properly the first time or its a false economy.
I've got a Ford Cobra/Mustang 8.8 with DSS 5.9 Shafts and prop, it's supposed to be bomb proof but it's mega expensive....probably around £5k with duty and shipping.






