So i've seized front castor bushes and a one seized lower bush on the drivers rear, all in all not too bad.

A much nicer drive home, not massively different but it feels better in a straight line and seems to have a much better turn in than it had previously, most noticeable when going around a right hand bend.

I'm no expert on picking the settings apart but if anyone else fancies a go then be my guest.

 

did the dog always eat your homework?

 

No That was my wallet

 

So we have

Front L/R
Caster: 6deg 36' / 6deg 22'
Camber: 39' / 41'
Toe: 1' / 1'

Rear
Camber: 2deg12' / 1deg32'
Toe: 6' / 8'

I'm a bit surprised by the low levels of rear toe, it will make it a bit more slidey I think, but your tyres will last longer - I have 30' of toe on each side!

The relatively high caster angle will give good self centring, but perhaps a bit less feel, but will make the car more stable on the straight ahead. and it will give more effective camber when turning, so is not necessarily a bad thing. If you like it, then that's fine.

Getting the seized bolts sorted would be a good idea in the long run, though.

 

I had 30' toe in on the rears for a while, got 6000 miles out of the tyres and it always used to skip sideways over bumps, especially in the wet. Never felt happy in the wet.

C of G reduced it to 10' for me, fitted new MZs and I'm a lot happier with the result.

 

Cheers Simon - it does feel better to drive, definitely less nervous. Not sure i'll ever get close enough to the limit to notice the slidey thing although it feels sharper on turn in than it did before in both directions.

Castor is not adjustable due to the siezed bolts being rust welded to the subframe.

The chap at WiM was helpful and friendly, explained what was stuck etc. He basically said that after 18 months of driving as it had been, i'd probably got used to it and whilst this will feel like an improvement to me, it wouldn't feel so good to someone with an optimal setup.

Polybushing is an option but i'd take it somewhere local to get that done where they can take as long as they need. Paying commercial rates in a garage is going to cost more than I think it's worth paying whilst the geo can be kept reasonable if not optimal.

What he did say was that the rear frame was not as straight as it could be, the whole thing is marginally too far to the passenger side. Now when I first got under the car at JJs house to change brakes, we found some suspect markings on the rear subframe - wondered at the time if it had been slid backwards into something .... guess that has been confirmed. Apparently the left side had already been tweaked to mask this.

What I didn't appreciate was just how much movement one turn of those bushes can give - I was expecting trackrod end range and speed of movement, this was much quicker.

 

Why the difference in the rear camber?
That would worry?

 

Seized lower bush on the driver's rear? (which sounds painful )

 

Are you going to do anything about the rear frame or is it not worth the hassle?

 

Force the bugger; I have done for years.

Tony did a great job on the NSX too. I just haven't yet managed to unseize a castor adjuster (one cannot get violent with ally castings) which is a PIA.

Great place!