Brake Pad help!
Okay, so the plan was to change the rotors, pads, speedbleeders and brake fluid. I ended up only doing pads, bleeders, and fluid (because the old rotors did not want to come off). When I was testing them out with a friend following me, he said that there were sparks coming from my front brakes.
Weird issues -
The front pads are brand new Cobalt Friction GT Sports. The rears are are older GT sports that I ran last year. The REALLY WEIRD thing about the new GT sports is that 2 of the pads fit fine, and 2 of the pads didn't really fit. When I was putting them against the rotor, they seemed too tall. I checked them against the pads that do fit, and the tops of the pad backing was less than a milimeter too tall. My solution was to grind them down. That seemed to work. They were a bit snug, but fit easily after some grinding.
Theories:
1) The pad surface is larger than the previous pad surface. This would cause the larger pad to rub against the rusty part of the rotor, causing sparks.
2) The pad backing is still too snug, and pulling the metal clips onto the rotor. The rotor does not look scratched though, so i doubt this is it.
3) These pads just spark during the bedding in process (really weird).
The rotors don't look scored. The braking feels fine so far. And even after driving for like 10 minutes with intermitant hard braking, the rotors didn't feel hot as if they were dragging.
Mildly concerned, but I think it might be the rust on the old rotors. Any other ideas or solutions?
Weird issues -
The front pads are brand new Cobalt Friction GT Sports. The rears are are older GT sports that I ran last year. The REALLY WEIRD thing about the new GT sports is that 2 of the pads fit fine, and 2 of the pads didn't really fit. When I was putting them against the rotor, they seemed too tall. I checked them against the pads that do fit, and the tops of the pad backing was less than a milimeter too tall. My solution was to grind them down. That seemed to work. They were a bit snug, but fit easily after some grinding.
Theories:
1) The pad surface is larger than the previous pad surface. This would cause the larger pad to rub against the rusty part of the rotor, causing sparks.
2) The pad backing is still too snug, and pulling the metal clips onto the rotor. The rotor does not look scratched though, so i doubt this is it.
3) These pads just spark during the bedding in process (really weird).
The rotors don't look scored. The braking feels fine so far. And even after driving for like 10 minutes with intermitant hard braking, the rotors didn't feel hot as if they were dragging.
Mildly concerned, but I think it might be the rust on the old rotors. Any other ideas or solutions?
When you ground them down, did you mess with the ears or the top of the pad? If pad is shifting that could be the cause. Spring clip not seating on top of pad or the ears are to small in the calpier bracket.
Originally Posted by moonliver,Apr 8 2007, 01:45 PM
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Okay, the impact driver didn't work. Yes, I was turning it the right way. Yes, I was smacking the sh!t out of it. It's just really on there. I also tried an impact air gun. Still no luck. Almost stripped the screw. Pretty rusty on there. If anyone can think of a way to get these off, I'm open to suggestions. I'm going to call Cobalt tomorrow and find out if they know anything about this weird pad issue size thing.
So the plan now is to just throw on my other pads for now and F with the brakes when post-dragon. Unfortunately, the only pads I have with good meat on them are Hawk HP +. Not so great for the street (race pad, work best at high temp, and dust like a mofo). But that's what I got.
Grumble.
So the plan now is to just throw on my other pads for now and F with the brakes when post-dragon. Unfortunately, the only pads I have with good meat on them are Hawk HP +. Not so great for the street (race pad, work best at high temp, and dust like a mofo). But that's what I got.
Grumble.
you have to get a screw driver bit that seems a little bit too big, you hammer the the impact INTO the screw, and then wind it back to hammer for the impact, if it doesnt work, you need a bigger hammer. I dont want to be a dick, but the problem is the operator. dont be the tool's bitch pat. I'll stop by tomorrow after work and get em off for you if you want.








