I don't have a torque wrench- yet. And since I could use one for other applications, it would make sense for me to get one. I wouldn't buy an el-cheapo unless I absolutely needed one and had to scrape for cash at the same time. I wouldn't buy a super-expensive calibrated one either.

The other reason is I have a tendancy to be a gorilla when it comes to tightening things. I don't want to wreck anything.

I might get a Craftsman ratchet clicker or something middle of the road.

 

Did it all by myself with the exception of my dad pressing the brake pedal (second bleed attempt) and calling Keith for help because the "gravity bleed" procedure SUCKED, and I didn't know what to do.

Had a "major" problem with the passenger rear flare nut. I couldn't break it loose. Started to round the thing off trying to budge it, but couldn't get it. Then I went and got a flare nut wrench to see if that would do better . . . nope. Rounded the whole thing now. The wrench still gripped, but it took a lot of force to move the wrench. (the nut didn't move at all)

Then I went for the "big guns". I got a vice-grips and clamped that sucker on there good (without crushing the line). THAT got it loose finally.

All the other hoses cracked off without breaking a sweat.

But my bleeding still sucks. . . . it's the one thing that I REALLY wanted help with. Because I suck at bleeding brakes.

 

So did it all work out after bleeding the first time?

If so great. It's always a good thing doing yourself. Now you can help others.

 

After I called you I had it done in about 15-20 minutes. THANKS A TON!!!

The first bleed attempt was the gravity bleed. That was a major

Then I called you because I was a bit lost. Again, thanks!

After that, the pedal feel was a whole lot better. . . . not sure if I messed up the MC though. Sometimes it still feels a bit squishy, so maybe a third bleed attempt is in order . . . When at a stoplight, I can continue to push the pedal down further. But when the engine is off, after about two pumps the pedal feels like a brick and wont move. I don't know what to think. I know for a fact that my dad had the brake pedal floored several times, and I know that's a bad thing. I've heard through a reliable source that that can screw up the MC piston seals.

This is kinda what I was worried about. My dad knows about as much about this stuff as I do, and it's hard for him to gauge where the pedal will stop. It's only the third time he's ever been in the driver's seat of an S2k.


I honestly don't know what to think. I'll need a second, more experienced opinion on the matter. For now the car is definitely drivable. And that I'm very happy about.

 

Speed Bleeders

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry12595942

http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/product/SB10125

 

I've never read the DIY as I've bled my brakes many times, however I do not know what you're referring to about not having the pedal all the way to the floor and that being a bad thing.

Care to explain, or is the explanation in the DIY?

As a follow-on, is the suggestion that the pedal-pusher somehow pick a non-fixed point in the pedal travel and hold that spot 'perfectly' while you're closing the bleed screw? I find this untenable, as even the slightest lift as this person is trying to hold the theoretical point, before you close the bleed screw, could re-introduce air through the bleeder screw.

 

How are speed bleeders any different than the stock ones? They look pretty much the same thing.

The information I got about screwing up the MC seals came from a technical adviser at Spoon Sports USA. His comments were (at least for older cars/cars with probably more miles on them than mine) is that dirt and other foreign material builds up in the MC in the zone beyond that of which the MC piston normally travels. When doing a bleed procedure, flooring the brake pedal moves the MC piston/piston seals over this area with dirt and can create a bad seal. The debris scores/sticks to the seal, allowing fluid to bypass. I'm pulling that from memory, so some of that might not be exact, but most of it is what I remember.

 

Also how do I know if I tightened the bleeders too hard? This is another thing I worried about. I have a tendency to be a gorilla sometimes. I tried to replicate the how hard it was to open them when closing.

 

They look the same but have a check valve built in to them. You may need different model number for the Spoon caliper.

 

Mm,

You'll know if you tightened the bleed screws too hard, because you damage something (the screw or caliper) and fluid would start coming out and be unstoppable.

I go by using a small wrench, and only using forearm/wrist type strenth instead of putting your bicep into it (is that a good non-torque wrench analogy?)

I when you're doing the tightening/loosening for bleeding, it should only require between 1/8 to 1/4 turn of the wrench to be enough. So let's say they start out tight, full pressure and no fluid comes out, that's tight enough. 1/8 to 1/4 turn after you 'break it loose' and fluid should come out, now just back and forth that same amount for the whole process.