Time to go to sleep.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 79,195
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From: Home
Time to go to sleep.
When I got back from the dent-removal meet yesterday, I washed my car again. Cleaned and conditioned the leather, changed the oil, then pulled the battery out and placed the cover on it.
So she is now officially asleep for the winter.
Hopefully I winter will pass quickly and I can get her out soon.
So she is now officially asleep for the winter.
Hopefully I winter will pass quickly and I can get her out soon.
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 45,788
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From: Mish-she-gan
some things to consider when going to sleep........
WINTER STORAGE CHECKLIST
last updated November 8, 2004
Date Stored & Insurance Change________________ Milage ________________
Date Last Moved or Started & run for at least 30 Minutes ________________
Date Battery Trickled Charged, try to do monthly ________________
❏ Change the oil and filter, unless you are still within the
WINTER STORAGE CHECKLIST
last updated November 8, 2004
Date Stored & Insurance Change________________ Milage ________________
Date Last Moved or Started & run for at least 30 Minutes ________________
Date Battery Trickled Charged, try to do monthly ________________
❏ Change the oil and filter, unless you are still within the
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 79,195
Likes: 18
From: Home
Nice writeup!
Some other suggestions:
Put steel wool in the tail pipes to prevent vermin infestation.
Some people like to put desicant bags in the interior to help contol moisture.
I released the top latches and moved it off the seals JUST a hair so the gasket is not compressed. Some Shin-etzu grease is also a good thing to apply to all the rubber seals. They key word for working with Shin-etzu is SPARINGLY. You need FAR less than you might think, the stuff will spread a LONG way.
Some other suggestions:
Put steel wool in the tail pipes to prevent vermin infestation.
Some people like to put desicant bags in the interior to help contol moisture.
I released the top latches and moved it off the seals JUST a hair so the gasket is not compressed. Some Shin-etzu grease is also a good thing to apply to all the rubber seals. They key word for working with Shin-etzu is SPARINGLY. You need FAR less than you might think, the stuff will spread a LONG way.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: NW Chicago Burbs
Interestingly enough, when hardtopguy installed my hard top at Fall Colors he shin-etzu'd the rubber seals on the hard top, and he was _not_ being sparing of it. He said be sure to get enough on.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 27
From: Woodstock
Mine went in yesterday, have to pull it out on the weekend for oil change. And for some other recommendations mentioned on that sheet.
Great sheet.
Also one thing that is not in there that seems to be universally accepted is the use of a Moly additive like Valvoline Max Life Protector.
It's best to use it and while changing the oil. One container treats 5 quarts of oil. I pour a half quart oil in and then mix the Max life in with the remaing oil, due to the viscoity of the max life. Still making sure 5 quarts of oil were added.
You can add a container after wards but I dont dump the whole container in at once
Drive the car for at least 20 minutes to allow the moly to get into and coat specific engine surfaces.
The large part of engine wear occurs on cold starts where normal oil no longer has the protective film on parts. The Moly creates that film and helps greatly on the initial cold starts.
I don't recommend using it when the car is driven frequently, it does nothing.
During the last 30 minute drive
Great sheet.
Also one thing that is not in there that seems to be universally accepted is the use of a Moly additive like Valvoline Max Life Protector.
It's best to use it and while changing the oil. One container treats 5 quarts of oil. I pour a half quart oil in and then mix the Max life in with the remaing oil, due to the viscoity of the max life. Still making sure 5 quarts of oil were added.
You can add a container after wards but I dont dump the whole container in at once
Drive the car for at least 20 minutes to allow the moly to get into and coat specific engine surfaces.
The large part of engine wear occurs on cold starts where normal oil no longer has the protective film on parts. The Moly creates that film and helps greatly on the initial cold starts.
I don't recommend using it when the car is driven frequently, it does nothing.
During the last 30 minute drive
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 27
From: Woodstock
It is better to do it before only because you are removing oil with any possible contaminates. Abrasive material left behind is the first to make contact with moving parts after a long period sitting.
Hence the oil change and Moly additive, clean oil, and a Moly protectantm that creates a film on those parts that would take a beating on cold starts.
Hence the oil change and Moly additive, clean oil, and a Moly protectantm that creates a film on those parts that would take a beating on cold starts.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 79,195
Likes: 18
From: Home
The prevailing theory on oil changes for storage is that contaminats, water and acids are in the dirty oil and can cause dammage to the engine while not in use, and again on startup. Some people do change thier oil both before AND after storage. The idea being that condensation can ruin the oil. This seems extreme to me, and believe that before is FAR more important than after.
I can see using the shin-etzu (or equivilant) quite heavily on a hardtop install where it could be many months before you get a chance to reapply to the gasket (years?) with the heavy top rubbing into the gasket as you drive the car. However, if you use it on all the seals (especially around the windows) it will make a BIG mess unless you go lightly. I applied a VERY light coat to the seal above the windshield at the same time I was painting my calipers. That was about 3 months ago. I regularly drive with the top down and park with the top up and latched. When I put the car away this weekend, I notice that top seal looked like it was still "wet" with grease. The point of the grease (IMHO) is to keep the rubber from drying out and cracking. To that end, a VERY small ammount is all that is needed once or twice a year.
As for Moly addatives. It has been shown that the Honda "break-in" oil is heavy with Moly. Because of that, many people (myself included) feel that continuing to use an oil with a high moly content is a good idea through extended break-in (first 10,000mi or so.) Because of that I use Castrol GTX which according to the research I found on S2ki, done by other members, has the most moly content of any oil on the market. Because of that I don't use a moly additive. If I were running Synthetic oil (which I will after that 10,000mi extended break-in) I would not add anything to it, just doesn't make sense to me. If I were running any kind of Dyno oil besides Castrol GTX I would consider a moly additive depending on the length of storage.
This is a great conversation. Lots of great ideas, guys. Thanks!
I can see using the shin-etzu (or equivilant) quite heavily on a hardtop install where it could be many months before you get a chance to reapply to the gasket (years?) with the heavy top rubbing into the gasket as you drive the car. However, if you use it on all the seals (especially around the windows) it will make a BIG mess unless you go lightly. I applied a VERY light coat to the seal above the windshield at the same time I was painting my calipers. That was about 3 months ago. I regularly drive with the top down and park with the top up and latched. When I put the car away this weekend, I notice that top seal looked like it was still "wet" with grease. The point of the grease (IMHO) is to keep the rubber from drying out and cracking. To that end, a VERY small ammount is all that is needed once or twice a year.
As for Moly addatives. It has been shown that the Honda "break-in" oil is heavy with Moly. Because of that, many people (myself included) feel that continuing to use an oil with a high moly content is a good idea through extended break-in (first 10,000mi or so.) Because of that I use Castrol GTX which according to the research I found on S2ki, done by other members, has the most moly content of any oil on the market. Because of that I don't use a moly additive. If I were running Synthetic oil (which I will after that 10,000mi extended break-in) I would not add anything to it, just doesn't make sense to me. If I were running any kind of Dyno oil besides Castrol GTX I would consider a moly additive depending on the length of storage.
This is a great conversation. Lots of great ideas, guys. Thanks!
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 27
From: Woodstock
DLQ and Pete, I guess that depends heavily on where the car is stored.
If you have a heated garage that really changes a lot. I don't have that luxury, the garage my car is in sees frequent average temps in the 20-30s during the winter. It seems most people also use un-heated garages.
Maybe I am nuts through the life of the car, as it was stored, it had a Moly addititive used. When it is out of storage it uses no Moly and straight Mobil 1 Synthetic which has a low moly content.
Many who have driven it, notice that the car is notable stronger feeling, dynos seem to have confirmed that. Whether it was from a long initial break in or not or the use of Moly addititives I don't know, but the original owner did it, and I am going to continue.
I will take the extra protection of the additives. It's a 4 dollar expense, for one oil change, seems worth it to me if you are pulling sub zero starts.
And as far as the cost of the Shin-etsu, I got a tube for 6$, and I barely used 1/4 of it in a year. Coated all the seals, and CV boots lightely and you can still tell there is a layer on it.
Not only that shin-etsu is really designed for low temps
http://www.silicone.jp/e/products/index.html
Does that other silicone you use DLQ have a rating like this?
G-3W-0
If you have a heated garage that really changes a lot. I don't have that luxury, the garage my car is in sees frequent average temps in the 20-30s during the winter. It seems most people also use un-heated garages.
Maybe I am nuts through the life of the car, as it was stored, it had a Moly addititive used. When it is out of storage it uses no Moly and straight Mobil 1 Synthetic which has a low moly content.
Many who have driven it, notice that the car is notable stronger feeling, dynos seem to have confirmed that. Whether it was from a long initial break in or not or the use of Moly addititives I don't know, but the original owner did it, and I am going to continue.
I will take the extra protection of the additives. It's a 4 dollar expense, for one oil change, seems worth it to me if you are pulling sub zero starts.
And as far as the cost of the Shin-etsu, I got a tube for 6$, and I barely used 1/4 of it in a year. Coated all the seals, and CV boots lightely and you can still tell there is a layer on it.
Not only that shin-etsu is really designed for low temps
http://www.silicone.jp/e/products/index.html
Does that other silicone you use DLQ have a rating like this?
G-3W-0