hey guys i just bought my first s2k last week n im loving it
i donno why sometimes when i rev it and when the vtech is bout to kick in at 5 the car gets ****ed up up like the rpm would stay at 5 n the car sounds like its at 9 rpm wtf is that? is that normal? it happened once twice

 

Not sure why that is, I have an AP2 and I haven't Vteched all that much. Welcome to the board though!

 

try put it more clearly what ur problem is....

anyways welcome to the board. There aren't many s2kers in van so this place might not be that active but keep an eye for outing/meeting .

 

Welcome to the board. Is your car cold when you rev it hard? If so, it's your rev limiter kicking in. If she isn't warmed up, you can't go past a certain rpm (can't remember the exact, but it's close to where you noted).

 

^that is very true. Warm up the car for at least 10 min I would say. Let the temp have at least 3 bars otherwise the cold rev limiter will definitely kick in. Don't do that

 

gezz...try to read and learn more about cars pls...
not to mention vtec, u wont rev a 350z or a subaru to its redline when cold start right? that just doesnt sound right, common sense dude.
when u jus wake up , i ask u to run around the streets without restin. same shit....

 

Welcome! btw it's vtec not vtech, vtech is a shitty brand of phones and electronic devices.

 

Pulled out from another thread, here's something for you to read to gain some knowledge.



Everything learned from s2ki.com:

1. Check oil level frequently (usually weekly for me)
2. Front and rear OEM wheels are not the same size, tires are staggered.
3. Don't mix and match tires.
4. Plan on replacing OEM rear tires @ 10-15k miles.
5. Winter tires for winter.
6. Caution VTEC in rain / low traction conditions.
7. Don't lift off the throttle abruptly in the middle of a turn.
8. Both feet in, in a spin.
9. Some wheelspin is faster off the line.
10. Replacing gears with a higher ratio set gets you to higher rpms faster and into VTEC
11. VTEC is not a phone (V-TECH) nor a heart arrhythmia (V-Tach)
12. Watch out for "money shifts...." e.g. accelerating in 3rd, hitting 2nd instead of 4th.
13. ~10,500 rpm mechanical overrev is likely fine, over that and your likelihood of slapping a valve increases.
14. Flashing CEL is bad, tow it on a flatbed
15. Maint light is a mileage counter, not a sensor. This is different than a CEL (check engine light)
16. You can reset the maint light by holding down trip button (?) while you turn on car and keep holding it down ~15 seconds
17. Radio code can be found from Honda dealer if you get your serial number.
18. There is a way to get the OEM radio to display serial number on the HU, but pretty easy to remove radio.
19. The radio code may be on a sticker in the glovebox.
20. There are two cubbies. Glovebox, and "secret compartment" above the glovebox.
21. Fuel door release is just left of the driver's shoulder on the doorjamb. Pull on black knob.
22. Some early gas caps didn't fit well and set off temp CELs that would clear in a few driving cycles.
23. You can clear a CEL with an OBDII scanner ($20 off ebay) or by pulling the third fuse under the steering column. Use the white tweezers.
24. It's pretty easy to remove stock seats. They are expensive to replace.
25. A member makes seat locks to help secure them.
26. It's pretty easy to insert heating elements underneath the seat leather and hardwire them under the dash.
27. Pulling up dash carpet is easier with a specialized "trim removal tool" from Autozone or similar. ~$5.
28. Don't use synthetic until >7500 miles because of "break-in" additives to stock engine oil.
29. Make sure oil filter isn't loose or else it can fall off and spew oil.
30. Make sure they have special "crush washers" in stock.
31. Fumoto makes a quick and easy spigot to drain oil from the pan
32. Comptech uses a special adaptor to the oil bolt to feed the supercharger, Vortech taps the pan directly.
33. Aftercooler loses 1 psi on a supercharger.
34. Upgraded boost to 7psi does not need engine management or upgraded injectors.
35. You can change a supercharger pulley yourself in your garage in under an hour. You will need a different belt.
36. OBD-II code P0411 means you've either put the one-way valve backwards, have a leak or loose vacuum hose or routed them incorrectly.
37. OBD-II code P0420 is inefficient secondary O2 sensor and doesn't affect performance at all.
38. Rich conditions can toast the fragile stock cat and shear the head off the secondary O2 sensor, leading to a P0420.
39. Honda has a 8 year emissions warranty (including cat) that applies if you are stock.
40. Test pipe is an alternative to replacing cat.
41. A mechanical O2 fix is a little tube either built in or two "spark plug anti-foulers" from Autozone screwed together to move the O2 sensor out of the stream.
42. Replacement O2 sensors are available from Autozone or similar for ~$50, also a universal Bosch works fine if you splice the harness per directions.
43. Test pipes are stinky.
44. Used cats are available from other board members that don't mind stinky test pipes.
45. The rear center jacking point is the center differential
46. Jack stands should be used when working underneath the car.
47. Keep spare tire inflated properly
48. Check all tire pressures regularly
49. It's possible to add sound deadening and quiet the car somewhat. Passenger footwell above the tranny, convertible tray, and over the hollow gas tank for starters. Firewall also helps.
50. It is simple to upgrade the stock radio to a better headunit and to keep the dashboard switch functions (see Modifry or SWI-PS from Crutchfield).
51. Adding a subwoofer and better door speakers improves sound quality.
52. The seatbelts rub against the tops of the seats making an annoying rubbing sound. This is remedied by putting a piece of black felt or fuzzy side of velcro at the contact point on the seat.
53. Shin-Etsu silicone grease works well on seals.
54. The soft top latches rattle in back of your head if you have a hardtop. Latching them closed and securing them closed with a velcro cord wrap keeps them from jiggling.
55. Hardtop strikers can rattle if not tight, stuffing little foam pieces in joints also cuts rattle.
56. Aftermarket traction control systems exist, are under $1000, and work great in AP1s (esp with FI) to keep you from snap oversteer in the Winter.
57. Rev-matching for downshifts and Heel-toeing are useful performance techniques. Watching Best Motoring drivers in S2000s is illustrative.
58. NGK copper 7173s are non-resistor plugs for SC S2ks, BRK7Es work for up to 400hp if you like resistor plugs. Gap is 0.29-0.34.
59. Hardtop weighs 44 # and you can make a hoist in your garage for cheap.
60. If you get a flat rear tire, you need to move the front to the rear and put the spare on the front. The flat tire WILL fit in the trunk if you remove the foam tool tray and put in where the spare used to be.
61. There is no passenger unlock door button inside the car.
62. If you think your passenger window is broken, check that the window lockout switch isn't toggled off.
63. Larger wheels are heavier and may sap power and sacrifice ride quality.
64. Two full-size golf stand-bags fit in the trunk.
65. If you like your stock OEM radio, Crutchfield sells the PIE-HON-aux IPOD adapter for $60 that allows you to hardwire a 3.5mm jack input to play IPODs through (uses CD Changer jack). It's super easy to install as well. Takes ~30 minutes. The AP1 unit also fits 1998 Honda Accords (donated and installed mine on a friend's car when I upgraded the HU).
66. Be careful pulling forwards into a parking spot, you may scrape the underside of your bumper on the concrete block.
67. If this happens, add an OEM lip spoiler or a Coastal Metals bumper protector.
68. Clear Bra's are okay
69. Colgan makes a fake CF patterned black nose mask (bra) that can protect your car on a road trip. Don't let it get wet and dusty or you'll sandpaper your paint finish.
70. A cheap car cover on a windy day is also like sandpaper to your paint finish.
71. You can get a spare set of AP1 wheels in decent condition used for ~$500. Useful for Winter tires.
72. CAI can suck water into the engine if you're not careful and if there have been heavy rains.
73. Remote start is possible on a manual car, but some people forget it's in gear and have ruined multiple bumpers that way.
74. There is a "top down while rolling" mod like the Porsche's. Has to do with foiling the handbrake sensor.
75. Don't expect anyone to pay what you've spent on mods when selling your car. The most money is made returning it to stock and "parting out" the car. Expect to lose money overall.
76. Collegehillshonda.com and Majestichonda.com have some of the cheapest OEM parts to order.
77. Getting a valve adjustment in the US like the Europe manual states (~30k miles) may be a good idea. It costs ~$100-$150 and can include a new gasket.
78. There are separate spark plug well gaskets that keep oil out of the coilpacks, these frequently tear on valve cover removal and should probably be replaced (~$2.00 each). Have your tech order them beforehand.
79. There are things called "hood dampers." They are the hydraulic pistons that are popular on more expensive vehicles. They open the hood instead of needing the prop rod. They are nice if you work on your car a lot, it keeps the prop rod out of your way. ~$100-120. They take ~15 minutes to install at the very most.
80. There is a sequence you can program yourself so that when you turn on the defrost, the A/C doesn't automatically come on.
81. For moderately boosted S2000s, a popular spark plug is a copper NGK. BKR7E is a resistor plug that works well up to ~400hp and 7173 is a "racing" nonresistor plug that works well but can cause electrical interference and radio "static."
82. People steal S2000 antennae. They fit on VWs, Civics, and Integras. Loctite, put it in trunk, or buy a spare for $20.
83. If you have a new thumping and / or whining from the rear, and your dealer tells you that a new $3000 differential is needed... make sure you see chunks of metal in the diff fluid before shelling out money. It could be a loose axle nut (should be torqued at 220ft*lbs) or destroyed bearing and hub. This is even more likely if you have a reinforced diff and like tracking your car.
84. The rear bearings and hubs may need replacing after 30000 hard tracked or FI miles
85. The rear inner CV cups can be swapped left to right to extend the life if you have the vibration / pitting problem.
86. If you have to replace the inner CV cups, they are the same as the Accord so the dealer will have them on hand.
87. If you have an aftermarket hard top, you can add defroster lines: http://www.shop.com/op/~CLEAR_VIEW_A...9?sourceid=298
88. Clean your throttle body, MAP sensor, and MAP sensor tunnel regularly to combat confused ECU A/F ratios and the dreaded bucking / stalling / hesitation problem. Don't forget to Shin-Etsu the MAP sensor O-ring.
89. Don't drop the MAP sensor. It's super-fragile.
90. Comptech ESM is finicky. Make sure the connections are soldered or else it can give you symptoms like a frazzled MAP sensor.
91. Bad coilpacks and injectors are not that common.
92. Periodic fuel injector cleaner (Techron / Chevron) may be useful.
93. RE-01R's may be an upgrade to discontinued S-03s.
94. They sell Pilot Sport Cups that fit 16" wheels. They cost 1/2 as much as GT3 Sport Cups.
95. Upgraded tires will be one of the best handling mods available. They wear out quickly, though.
96. All-season tires are a compromise by definition.

 

Wow Victor, that was long! Informative though.

 

thx guys well what i meant is for example the sound that the engine makes when its at the red line .. some times when the vtec is about to kick in the rpm stays at 5000 and the engine makes that noise like its at the red line and it wont go pass 5000
no my car was warmed up when it happened im not sur what it is