doing leak down test
Originally Posted by SumAznGuy,Dec 17 2009, 02:35 PM
If you don't know what TDC is, then maybe you shouldn't be giving out car advice. 

However, my advice to YOU sumaznguy, would be to respect other member's opinions, and not publicly attack, however subtle, another member of this board. I made my remark to chad86 about going for professional help, in a very friendly, non-aggressive manner, with the best of intentions.
Lastly, it's quite hypocritical for you to suggest that I should not be giving out car advice, and then afterwards, admit to not having done a leakdown test and remark that you would be "talking out of your ass" if you did so.
end rant.
Originally Posted by ttang,Dec 17 2009, 09:13 PM
my advice was to get professional advice, which i think is more than reasonable, considering that I fully admit that I did know enough about this.
However, my advice to YOU sumaznguy, would be to respect other member's opinions, and not publicly attack, however subtle, another member of this board. I made my remark to chad86 about going for professional help, in a very friendly, non-aggressive manner, with the best of intentions.
Lastly, it's quite hypocritical for you to suggest that I should not be giving out car advice, and then afterwards, admit to not having done a leakdown test and remark that you would be "talking out of your ass" if you did so.
end rant.
However, my advice to YOU sumaznguy, would be to respect other member's opinions, and not publicly attack, however subtle, another member of this board. I made my remark to chad86 about going for professional help, in a very friendly, non-aggressive manner, with the best of intentions.
Lastly, it's quite hypocritical for you to suggest that I should not be giving out car advice, and then afterwards, admit to not having done a leakdown test and remark that you would be "talking out of your ass" if you did so.
end rant.
I could careless what your opinions are about my fuel mileage or what your advice to me is, just like I think most people here don't care how I think they are tools.
Oh yeah, being a hypocrite would be me saying "don't give car advice when you don't know what TDC is" and then me giving Chad car advice while never done this leak down test.
But that is not the case. I stated, which I think was almost the exact answer that Chad was looking for, which was how to perform a leak down test.
I might not have had the right answer, but I was right that Kstokes did.
Now, back to our regular programming.
OK, well i am going to be trying to do the test tomorrow some time, so I may be posting on here if I get stuck..
So JL9000: U mean to stick a long screwdriver in where the spark plug was and basically keep turning it untill the handle of it is at its highest point?
So JL9000: U mean to stick a long screwdriver in where the spark plug was and basically keep turning it untill the handle of it is at its highest point?
Yes. The piston at TDC means the piston is at the top of the cyclinder.
So with the screw driver down the spark plug hole (with the plug removed of course) the scewdriver will move up and down as you turn the crank.
In a nut shell, the engine is a 4 cycle motor, intake (intake valves open, down stroke) compression (all vavles closed, piston moving up) power stroke (all valves close, piston moving down) and the exhaust stroke (exhaust valves open piston moving up)
So with the screw driver down the spark plug hole (with the plug removed of course) the scewdriver will move up and down as you turn the crank.
In a nut shell, the engine is a 4 cycle motor, intake (intake valves open, down stroke) compression (all vavles closed, piston moving up) power stroke (all valves close, piston moving down) and the exhaust stroke (exhaust valves open piston moving up)
Originally Posted by SumAznGuy,Dec 18 2009, 04:42 PM
Yes. The piston at TDC means the piston is at the top of the cyclinder.
So with the screw driver down the spark plug hole (with the plug removed of course) the scewdriver will move up and down as you turn the crank.
In a nut shell, the engine is a 4 cycle motor, intake (intake valves open, down stroke) compression (all vavles closed, piston moving up) power stroke (all valves close, piston moving down) and the exhaust stroke (exhaust valves open piston moving up)
So with the screw driver down the spark plug hole (with the plug removed of course) the scewdriver will move up and down as you turn the crank.
In a nut shell, the engine is a 4 cycle motor, intake (intake valves open, down stroke) compression (all vavles closed, piston moving up) power stroke (all valves close, piston moving down) and the exhaust stroke (exhaust valves open piston moving up)
So I ended up doing the test tonight with a buddy.. I found that when i brought #1 to TDC it got a leakage of 10%.. but when i tried doing #2 I got 17%.. I got kinda worried and tried all the other cylinders and they weere also all 17%
.. I got really worried... Then i remmembered a thread saying that the cam lobes must be at 10 oclock and 3 oclock.. when i did that and brought the cylinder to TDC with the lobes set properly,,then I got all consistant 10%'s accross the board..
Looks like I am a GO for the 3mm headgasket and gonna be upping the boost
.. I am gonna be doing that hopefully some time after the holdiays..
Thank-you for all the help guys,, it made everything a lot easier
.. I got really worried... Then i remmembered a thread saying that the cam lobes must be at 10 oclock and 3 oclock.. when i did that and brought the cylinder to TDC with the lobes set properly,,then I got all consistant 10%'s accross the board.. Looks like I am a GO for the 3mm headgasket and gonna be upping the boost
.. I am gonna be doing that hopefully some time after the holdiays..Thank-you for all the help guys,, it made everything a lot easier



