this changes quite a bit.

maybe i should sell my spare set of ap1's and get a set of replica V3s...

i dont track my car or anything. just daily and prob drive less than 10k a year.

 

^only if you race competitively. Street use it will hardly matter. And I wouldn't recommend these wheels to anyone looking to race competitively anyway. So for running on the street, these would be fine for those on a budget! They look nice, just like OEM. I would attempt to avoid potholes just in case, but I think they'd be fine.

 

But if so, you are welcome, lol.

 

Did you manage to weigh them, what's the actual weight?

 

damn good find a lot cheaper than on finishlinewheels.com now if i could just find some nsx reps...

 

Hit the gym and start eating from subway to lose the extra weight from the wheels...

 

A couple pounds of rotating mass /= a couple pounds of static weight (eg your fat ass) sitting in the driver's seat.

 

Correct, but it's still only about a 2:1 ratio. So, if your replicas weigh 2 lbs more at each corner, then just lose 16 lbs of weight from your stomach and it's all the same : )

I realize there are myths abound about this subject, but there are a ton of factors involved including where the weight is being shed ie, the center of the wheel or the outside of the wheel for example. It is more beneficial to have the weight savings towards the inner "portion" of the wheel opposed to the outside. Or, just use a smaller wheel in the first place if all else is equal.

Anyway, I am considering these replicas too. My car is just used for street duty anyway so I just may pull the trigger on them.

 

Let us know about the weight.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/17-Alloy-Whe...ht_1992wt_1184


for anyone who is interested, looks like a complete set front and rears for $400