Another will these fit...
Hello everyone,
Huge noob here when it comes to wheel and tire setups with the S. Ive looked all through the threads and too many comparisons that I just confuse myself at this point. Also there isn't many comparisons on stock heights. The car will be used to autocross and track events 1-2 times a month and a little spirited mountain driving here and there.
Stock suspension/height for probably another year.
Will be rolling fenders, but was hoping to get away without doing that until I got suspension and a more aggressive alignment.
No BBK.
Wheels are planned to be 17x9+63.
Alignment has about -1 camber all around.
Tires are where I'm not 100% sure.
245/40/17 or 255/40/17 or something different?
Obviously I don't want to be rubbing or touching the control arms. I think there is a risk at full lock? But again not sure if that risk is there on stock suspension?
Thank you in advance, go easy on me
Huge noob here when it comes to wheel and tire setups with the S. Ive looked all through the threads and too many comparisons that I just confuse myself at this point. Also there isn't many comparisons on stock heights. The car will be used to autocross and track events 1-2 times a month and a little spirited mountain driving here and there.
Stock suspension/height for probably another year.
Will be rolling fenders, but was hoping to get away without doing that until I got suspension and a more aggressive alignment.
No BBK.
Wheels are planned to be 17x9+63.
Alignment has about -1 camber all around.
Tires are where I'm not 100% sure.
245/40/17 or 255/40/17 or something different?
Obviously I don't want to be rubbing or touching the control arms. I think there is a risk at full lock? But again not sure if that risk is there on stock suspension?
Thank you in advance, go easy on me
Go 245s if you're concerned about rubbing. More camber is going to be safer on both ends. Rear is likely fine with 245s @ 1 degree camber but the front is the concern. You'll want to at least max out front camber which should get you 1.7 degrees. I still think it's unwise and you run a high risk of contacting the fronts. I ran the 17x9 +63 setup for a few years now with no issues. I'm lowered and stiff but the real thing that matters is I'm using a camber joint on the upper a-arm in the front. That pulls the top of the wheel in a pretty significant amount. Even at that, I've never made contact but I do regularly have to replace the clips on my fender liners due to contact there.
I think you should roll your fenders or get camber adjustment on the upper control arm. You're running a high risk of fender contact. You may not have contact at full lock but you're likely to hit the outside fender. Though contact at full lock isn't fun, I think it's almost necessary if you really want to minimize the risk of catching a fender. My setup makes contact @ full lock and has 3.5 degrees front camber. I've used up all the travel available in the front to the point that my tire makes contact with the frame rail. I've jumped track curbs with steering and I've never made contact with a fender. If you want this to work and don't want to roll your fenders safely, you need either an upper ball joint or camber bushings in the front. You may get away with it for a while but the right combo of steering + compression is going to catch you out eventually.
I think you should roll your fenders or get camber adjustment on the upper control arm. You're running a high risk of fender contact. You may not have contact at full lock but you're likely to hit the outside fender. Though contact at full lock isn't fun, I think it's almost necessary if you really want to minimize the risk of catching a fender. My setup makes contact @ full lock and has 3.5 degrees front camber. I've used up all the travel available in the front to the point that my tire makes contact with the frame rail. I've jumped track curbs with steering and I've never made contact with a fender. If you want this to work and don't want to roll your fenders safely, you need either an upper ball joint or camber bushings in the front. You may get away with it for a while but the right combo of steering + compression is going to catch you out eventually.
Go 245s if you're concerned about rubbing. More camber is going to be safer on both ends. Rear is likely fine with 245s @ 1 degree camber but the front is the concern. You'll want to at least max out front camber which should get you 1.7 degrees. I still think it's unwise and you run a high risk of contacting the fronts. I ran the 17x9 +63 setup for a few years now with no issues. I'm lowered and stiff but the real thing that matters is I'm using a camber joint on the upper a-arm in the front. That pulls the top of the wheel in a pretty significant amount. Even at that, I've never made contact but I do regularly have to replace the clips on my fender liners due to contact there.
I think you should roll your fenders or get camber adjustment on the upper control arm. You're running a high risk of fender contact. You may not have contact at full lock but you're likely to hit the outside fender. Though contact at full lock isn't fun, I think it's almost necessary if you really want to minimize the risk of catching a fender. My setup makes contact @ full lock and has 3.5 degrees front camber. I've used up all the travel available in the front to the point that my tire makes contact with the frame rail. I've jumped track curbs with steering and I've never made contact with a fender. If you want this to work and don't want to roll your fenders safely, you need either an upper ball joint or camber bushings in the front. You may get away with it for a while but the right combo of steering + compression is going to catch you out eventually.
I think you should roll your fenders or get camber adjustment on the upper control arm. You're running a high risk of fender contact. You may not have contact at full lock but you're likely to hit the outside fender. Though contact at full lock isn't fun, I think it's almost necessary if you really want to minimize the risk of catching a fender. My setup makes contact @ full lock and has 3.5 degrees front camber. I've used up all the travel available in the front to the point that my tire makes contact with the frame rail. I've jumped track curbs with steering and I've never made contact with a fender. If you want this to work and don't want to roll your fenders safely, you need either an upper ball joint or camber bushings in the front. You may get away with it for a while but the right combo of steering + compression is going to catch you out eventually.
I'd go ahead and max out front stock camber adjusters both for performance and clearance sake. I think at stock height and with stock components I got around -2.0* camber in the front. Maybe one side was just a touch less. It'll vary slightly from car to car depending on tolerance stacking and wear and tear. IMO the inside tire wear isn't that bad at -2.0*. In my experience inside tire wear didn't really become excessive during street driving until after I got past -3.0* camber. I don't really have much else to add that hasn't been already said. 255+63 is largely safe at stock height if you dial in extra camber but once you start lowering it becomes a little sketchier and you'll want to look at camber adjusters (upper control arm adjustment provides more clearance than lower).
I'd go ahead and max out front stock camber adjusters both for performance and clearance sake. I think at stock height and with stock components I got around -2.0* camber in the front. Maybe one side was just a touch less. It'll vary slightly from car to car depending on tolerance stacking and wear and tear. IMO the inside tire wear isn't that bad at -2.0*. In my experience inside tire wear didn't really become excessive during street driving until after I got past -3.0* camber. I don't really have much else to add that hasn't been already said. 255+63 is largely safe at stock height if you dial in extra camber but once you start lowering it becomes a little sketchier and you'll want to look at camber adjusters (upper control arm adjustment provides more clearance than lower).
You should be safe in the rear without a roll. At worst, you'll rub a little bit @ 1 degree camber but you can always go up. The rears shouldn't get damaged or bacon like the fronts will if they were to rub slightly. If you're at all concerned about not rolling your fenders, you can hold off on the rears. Again, you should be fine or at worst you can add a bit of camber until it clears. It's the fronts that are thin metal and if you ever make contact, they'll probably get damaged.
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hyperpm
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Feb 9, 2004 09:05 AM








