Ok thank you all for help I got my answer.

 

Agreed, and if you are closer to stock under the engine bay I don't think there is really a need to go wider than 255 in the rear imo.
I almost question if the 225/255 setup does me any good performance wise over the 215/245 setup because of the added weight.
After having my new 225/255 setup put on, there's no way I'd want anything wider than a 255 in the rear being stock under the hood.
My next mods of significance are more than likely to be power related, just to keep up with the wider tire setup I feel it could really use a little boost in power.

 

Agreed, and if you are closer to stock under the engine bay I don't think there is really a need to go wider than 255 in the rear imo.
I almost question if the 225/255 setup does me any good performance wise over the 215/245 setup because of the added weight.
After having my new 225/255 setup put on, there's no way I'd want anything wider than a 255 in the rear being stock under the hood.
My next mods of significance are more than likely to be power related, just to keep up with the wider tire setup I feel it could really use a little boost in power.
[/quote]

Eric, your not going fast enough in the corners if you feel 225/255 is more then adequate

25-40mm of more tire width on top of that doesn’t suddenly bog this engine down, the car will still do 160mph stock out of the box! But what it does do is allow a higher breaking and turning grip level at slow and fast speed without subjecting yourself to the compromises of streeting an R comp. But like any grip modification, the suspension and chassis should be tuned accordingly to get the most benefit. If your running a stiffer then stock suspension, then you should have a tire that can generate more then stock g forces to make that suspension work properly and vice versa. The engine doesn’t produce enough torque to spin the stock tires in first gear without a clutch drop, but that’s a moot point as it does make enough hp to generate mid triple digit speeds as mentioned. Its all about the circle of traction, and at any speed. Less engine power with equal lateral adhesion of a higher engine output, means you can/should stay on the gas later on corner entry and get on the gas sooner on corner exit, the car is more composed and generally easier to drive fast throughout the turn. Its all about carrying a higher speed throughout the turn in this car. Obviously the car will benefit from more engine output for the driver that can make use of it, but doesn’t mean the car should go without the other 2/3 the benefit of its performance capability simply because the 1/3 isnt there.

That’s my personal experience.

 

Agreed, and if you are closer to stock under the engine bay I don't think there is really a need to go wider than 255 in the rear imo.
I almost question if the 225/255 setup does me any good performance wise over the 215/245 setup because of the added weight.
After having my new 225/255 setup put on, there's no way I'd want anything wider than a 255 in the rear being stock under the hood.
My next mods of significance are more than likely to be power related, just to keep up with the wider tire setup I feel it could really use a little boost in power.
[/quote]

Eric, your not going fast enough in the corners if you feel 225/255 is more then adequate

[/quote]

Lol, that might be true for autocross events, but for street driving I don't want to push it to that point anyways.

 

Well the Seibon fenders seem to be my only option. How would I my wheels sit flush since its 10mm wider

 

Thats fine, but as mentioned the other factor is your pushing beyond your rim widths. 235/265 is too fat for an 8/9 to handle well and offer any real traction benefit over one size down due how that tire will pinch on the rim. Also keep in mind your increasing your overall diameter, effectively lengthening your gear ratio, which in that sense will make the car sluggish in response/acceleration. All this considered, id stick with the 225/255 stagger on your rims. Its already one up size from stock, just like the rim widths you chose to get. Pair them appropriately if you want the best overall performance.

 

I answered how it would look with those fenders.

 

I can't add a spacer to make it flush?

 

The ideal spacer would be 10mm however you'd need longer studs. 15mm spacer can be had with built in studs but the wheels need to have indents on the inside of the hub because the oem studs will protrude past the spacer. 20mm and they won't really fit. So the answer is maybe.

 

Personally, I think you are better off sticking with OEM fenders from both a fitment and quality perspective. If you do go with +10mm fenders then I don't think it will look that sunk in. As mentioned, they are fiberglass so I wouldn't want them too flush anyway. Your wheels will extend +28mm in front compared to stock and you will be running wider tires also (235?). It certainly won't be as sunk in as a stock setup. You can easily run a 5mm spacer but that is a fairly subtle difference.